In a significant commemoration of its 250th anniversary,
Breguet introduces a remarkable timepiece that encapsulates centuries of horological innovation and artistic mastery: the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. This special edition is not merely a new watch but a statement piece that lays bare the mechanical soul of the brand, continuing a design language that is as audacious today as its historical antecedents were in the 18th century. It serves as a direct link to the foundational principles of its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, blending a unique architectural vision with meticulous hand-craftsmanship.
The story of any Breguet Tradition model begins with the legacy of the man who started it all. Abraham-Louis Breguet was a transformative figure in watchmaking. At a time when timepieces were often burdened with baroque ornamentation, he pursued a philosophy of refined sobriety. He believed in the elimination of superfluous decoration to enhance functionality and, above all, the legibility of the time. This led him to favor clean white enamel dials and to invent the Breguet numerals, whose clarity and distinctiveness became legendary. His genius lay in his ability to unite beauty with utility, a principle that remains a cornerstone of the house to this day.
Courtesy of Breguet
Furthering his quest for functional design, A.L. Breguet was the first to apply the decorative technique of guilloché to watch dials. He recognized its potential beyond simple aesthetics; the intricate, engine-turned patterns created a matte, non-reflective surface that delineated different indications on the dial, making them easier to read. This practical application of an art form became a signature of the brand. Today, Breguet maintains the world's largest collection of operational period guilloché lathes, preserving this heritage and the ability to create a vast array of intricate patterns.
The Tradition collection, first launched in 2005, is the modern synthesis of Breguet’s most foundational ideas. It draws direct inspiration from the "Souscription" and "Tact" watches of the late 18th century. The Souscription watches were simple, robust timepieces sold via a subscription model, while the Tact watches allowed the time to be read by touch. Both featured movements with a distinct, symmetrical layout. The modern Tradition collection captures the spirit of these historical pieces by exposing the entire movement on the dial side, offering an uninterrupted view into the intricate world of gears, bridges, and escapements, just as a watchmaker would see it at the bench.
The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 presents a striking visual experience, dominated by its open-worked architecture. The wearer is immediately drawn into the heart of the mechanism. The mainplate and bridges, treated with a special plating, share the same warm hue as the case, creating a cohesive golden landscape. Against this backdrop, the silver-colored gears, heat-blued steel screws, and deep red of the 38 jewels provide a vibrant contrast that highlights the kinetic energy of the movement. The bridges themselves feature a silky, hand-applied satin finish on their upper surfaces, a first for the Tradition collection, which contrasts beautifully with the shot-blasted finish of the mainplate below.
At the 12 o’clock position sits the off-centered dial for the hours and minutes, a focal point of radiant color and craft. For this anniversary edition, Breguet has employed two of its signature color codes: Breguet gold and Breguet blue. The dial is rendered in a deep, translucent blue "Grand Feu" enamel. The "Grand Feu" or "great fire" technique involves applying layers of enamel powder and firing the dial at extremely high temperatures multiple times. It is a perilous process with a high failure rate, but the result is a color of unmatched depth and permanence that will not fade over time.
Courtesy of Breguet
Upon this blue enamel canvas is a new and exclusive guilloché pattern named "Quai de l’Horloge." This intricate design is not abstract; it is a tribute to the brand’s Parisian roots. The motif is inspired by the graceful curves of the river Seine as it flows around the Île de la Cité, the very island where A.L. Breguet established his workshop. The precise contours for this pattern were modeled on the 18th-century Turgot map of Paris, a remarkably detailed and accurate plan of the city. This specific and historically-rooted pattern adds a layer of narrative depth to the watch's aesthetic.
Readability, a core Breguet principle, is maintained with exceptional clarity. The Breguet Arabic numerals, the minute track punctuated by stylized fleurs-de-lis, and the watch's unique serial number at 4 o’clock are rendered in a contrasting silver, standing out sharply against the shimmering blue dial. The hands are of the classic Breguet "hollow apple" or "pomme évidée" style, crafted from 18K Breguet gold, a decision made for aesthetic coherence and to pay tribute to the precious metal developed for the anniversary. While blued steel hands are a brand signature, the use of gold here connects directly to prestigious historical pieces made by the founder himself.
A key complication of this model is the retrograde seconds display, which occupies an arc between the 10 and 11 o’clock positions. The retrograde function means the seconds hand travels along its scale and, upon reaching 60, instantly jumps back to zero to begin its journey again. This dynamic complication adds a moment of mechanical theater to the dial every minute. The hand itself is a slender baton shape, made of blued steel, its color harmonizing with the dial and the movement's screws.
The case of the Tradition 7035 is crafted from a new and exclusive alloy known as 18K Breguet gold. Developed specifically for the 250th anniversary, this material is a fusion of gold, silver, copper, and palladium, resulting in a unique precious metal that radiates a distinctively warm, golden glow. The round case measures a contemporary yet classically proportioned 38 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm in thickness, designed to sit comfortably on the wrist.
Courtesy of Breguet
True to the brand's historic case-making traditions, the case middle features the signature fine fluting, a detail that has identified Breguet watches for centuries. The lugs are welded to the case for a seamless and robust construction, with a standard width of 20 mm. The watch is fitted with a non-screwed crown and offers a water resistance of 3 BAR, or 30 meters, suitable for protecting the intricate movement from everyday splashes.
Powering this intricate timepiece is the self-winding Calibre 505 SR. This movement, comprising 245 components, is a testament to Breguet's prowess in mechanical engineering. It operates at a frequency of 3.00 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), a traditional cadence that allows for a smooth sweep of the seconds hand while contributing to the movement's longevity. When fully wound, it provides a healthy power reserve of 50 hours.
The movement is equipped with modern innovations that enhance its precision and reliability. It features a Breguet balance wheel and a patented Breguet balance spring made from Nivachron™. Nivachron™ is a high-performance alloy with exceptional resistance to magnetism, temperature variations, and shocks—three of the primary enemies of mechanical watch accuracy. The use of this advanced material ensures that the Tradition 7035 maintains its chronometric performance in the conditions of modern daily life.
Flipping the watch over reveals a view through the sapphire crystal caseback that is as captivating as the front. The architecture of the movement continues, with the satin-finished bridges providing an elegant surface over the shot-blasted mainplate. The most prominent feature is the oscillating weight, or rotor, which is responsible for automatically winding the watch with the motion of the wearer's arm.
Courtesy of Breguet
In a direct tribute to A.L. Breguet's early "perpétuelle" (self-winding) watches, the rotor is fashioned in a distinctive crescent moon shape. He was among the first to understand that a heavier oscillating mass would lead to more efficient winding. To achieve this without increasing the volume of the component, he pioneered the use of platinum in watchmaking. Following in his footsteps, the rotor of the 7035 is crafted from 950 platinum, with a vertical brushed finish that catches the light. A discrete "Pt950" engraving on the weight's flank serves as both a mark of quality and a nod to this important piece of the brand's patrimony.
The connection to the brand's history is further emphasized by the choice of location for Breguet's original workshop. When A.-L. Breguet settled in Paris, he chose the Île de la Cité because it was the epicenter of the arts and crafts related to watchmaking. Dial-makers, goldsmiths, enamellers, and casemakers were all located in this central hub. The house at Quai de l’Horloge became a center of intense intellectual and inventive activity for two and a half centuries, witnessing not only the creation of the world's most extraordinary watches but also later inventions like the electric telegraph and the first telephone tests in France.
The complete presentation of the watch includes a strap that perfectly complements its aesthetic. The Tradition 7035 is fitted with a navy blue alligator leather strap with large scales, lined with small-scale alligator leather for comfort. The strap is secured with an ardillon buckle made from 18K Breguet gold, matching the case and ensuring a cohesive design language down to the smallest detail.
This timepiece is presented as a celebration of a quarter-millennium of uninterrupted history and innovation. As CEO Gregory Kissling notes, the very essence of the Tradition collection is the "plunging perspective into the heart of the movement," which provides a direct insight into the complexity and refinement Breguet infuses into every timepiece. This daring architecture creates a strong, instantly recognizable visual identity.
Courtesy of Breguet
The integration of the new Quai de l’Horloge guilloché motif with the translucent blue Grand Feu enamel represents an unprecedented alliance of two of the brand's most cherished crafts. It is a celebration of centuries-old expertise that has been preserved and perfected within the Breguet manufacture.
The Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 is offered as a limited edition of 250 pieces, a number that honors the anniversary it celebrates. This exclusivity, combined with its unique blend of historical reverence and modern technology, positions it as a significant piece for collectors and enthusiasts. The watch is priced at $51,200 USD. It comes in a special 250th-anniversary red leather case, individually numbered and inspired by the Moroccan leather cases Breguet used in the 18th century, completing a package that is a worthy tribute to 250 years of horological excellence.
Case: 18K Breguet gold, round shape. 38 mm width, 12.6 mm thickness, 20 mm lug width. Fluted case middle and sapphire caseback. Water resistance of 3 BAR (30 meters).
Movement: Calibre 505 SR automatic winding movement. 50-hour power reserve, 3.00 Hz frequency, 38 jewels, 245 components. Features a Breguet Nivachron™ balance spring and a 950 platinum oscillating weight.
Dial: Off-centred at 12 o’clock in 18K Breguet gold with translucent blue Grand Feu enamel. Hand-guilloché "Quai de l’Horloge" motif. 18K Breguet gold Breguet hands for hours/minutes and a blued steel retrograde seconds hand.
Strap: Navy blue alligator leather with a large-scale pattern. Secured with an ardillon buckle made of 18K Breguet gold.
Price: $51,200 USD
Reference Number: 7035BH/H2/9V6
Notes: A limited edition of 250 pieces celebrating Breguet's 250th anniversary. The case is made from a new proprietary "Breguet gold" alloy, and the dial features a new "Quai de l’Horloge" guilloché pattern inspired by the river Seine in Paris.