Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour

A Subtle Evolution

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
October 15, 2025
The Villeret collection stands as the purest representation of Blancpain's stylistic and mechanical identity. It is a line defined by a dual commitment to the foundational principles of traditional Swiss watchmaking and a clean, uncluttered design language. This autumn, the collection reaffirms this heritage with the introduction of the Villeret Golden Hour series, a thoughtful reinterpretation of three emblematic models. Through new autumnal dial shades, refined aesthetic details, and meticulously hand-finished manufacture movements, Blancpain demonstrates that its most classic line continues to evolve with considered subtlety.



The genesis of what is now known as the Villeret collection is not tied to a single date or official decree. While the name was formally adopted in 2003, the spirit and core design principles were firmly established two decades prior. In 1983, amidst an industry grappling with the quartz crisis, Blancpain introduced a watch that would become a powerful symbol of mechanical resilience: a timepiece housing Calibre 6395. At just 21mm in diameter, it was the smallest complete calendar moon phase movement of its era. This watch, with its signature double-stepped bezel and refined aesthetics, already contained the DNA that would define the Villeret line for generations to come.

Courtesy of Blancpain


This 1983 creation was a visionary statement. At a time when the influx of electronic watches was causing many to question the future of mechanical horology, Blancpain presented a compelling counterargument. The brand showcased that mechanical timepieces offered a unique combination of artistry, intricate craftsmanship, tradition, and innovation that battery-powered watches could not replicate. The moon phase model embodied this distinction, helping to restore confidence in the industry and paving the way for a renaissance of authentic watchmaking driven by passion and artisanal skill. Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain, recalls its impact: “This timepiece was more than a tribute to horological tradition. It opened new perspectives and reignited interest in mechanical watchmaking.”



Among the many complications mastered by Blancpain, the moon phase holds a special significance. It is a feature that is both technically complex and poetically evocative, and it played a pivotal role in the revival of the Maison. Over the years, it has become one of the brand's most recognizable signatures. True to historical watchmaking tradition, the moon depicted on a Blancpain dial always features a human face. This is not merely an aesthetic flourish; it draws from centuries of symbolism and folklore where the celestial body is personified, acting as a companion in the passage of time. By continuing this heritage, Blancpain’s watchmakers infuse a romantic dimension into their creations, forging a link between mechanical precision and the vastness of celestial imagination.



The Villeret collection has always been a canvas for the full spectrum of horological expertise. Its offerings range from the purity of a three-hand automatic to the highest echelons of complexity, including minute repeaters, tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and even the traditional Chinese calendar. Throughout its history, the collection has been enriched with creations that celebrate the noblest forms of watchmaking savoir-faire. Its enduring appeal lies in its profound connection to the founding values of Swiss craftsmanship, presented with a clean and sophisticated aesthetic. For decades, Blancpain has carefully reinterpreted this iconic line, preserving its distinctive character while infusing it with modern sensibilities.

Courtesy of Blancpain


This latest evolution, the Golden Hour series, introduces a new chapter for the collection through a series of thoughtful updates. The changes are expressed in color and material, with new golden brown sunburst dials and finely grained opaline dials providing a warm, autumnal palette. These are complemented by interchangeable straps in new shades of beige, blue-grey, honey, and brown, allowing the watch to adapt to any occasion. Beyond these surface-level changes, however, are deeper transformations that refine the user experience and visual impact of each timepiece.



The hands and indices have been redesigned to create a more sculpted and sharply defined look. The applied Roman numerals are now crafted from 18-carat gold, featuring satin-finished top surfaces that contrast with polished bevels on their sides. In a subtle nod to the brand's heritage, the traditional "XII" at the 12 o'clock position is replaced by the "JB" brand symbol. The slender leaf-shaped hands now incorporate small luminescent inserts, a contemporary touch that significantly improves legibility in low-light conditions. Furthermore, the date window, where present, has been enlarged for a more harmonious integration into the dial's layout.



A look through the sapphire crystal caseback reveals another significant update: a newly designed openworked oscillating weight. Crafted from solid red or yellow gold, its form allows a clearer view of the mechanical heart beating within. The weight features expertly polished beveled edges, a detail that catches the light and draws attention to the exceptional finishing of the movement bridges below, which are decorated with traditional Côtes de Genève. This new rotor design underscores Blancpain’s commitment to showcasing the beauty and complexity of its in-house calibers.



The moon phase complication, a cornerstone of the Villeret identity, has also received a significant enhancement. The aperture for the moon phase display has been enlarged, giving the complication greater presence on the dial. The disc itself is now made of ceramic, providing a durable and richly colored backdrop for the moon. The moon is an applied element, crafted from 18-carat gold, with a domed shape and a satin-brushed finish. Its expressive, friendly face seems almost alive, adding a touch of personality and depth to the display.

Courtesy of Blancpain


Comfort and practicality have also been addressed with the introduction of a new system of interchangeable straps. This quick-change mechanism allows the owner to swap straps easily without the need for tools. The new leather options, which include shades of brown, blue-grey, honey, and a beige nubuck velvet, are finished with a supple "barolo" treatment. This finish not only makes the straps extremely comfortable from the first wear but also allows them to develop a unique natural patina over time, adding to the watch's individual character.



The new collection is comprised of 16 references across three core models, offered in either 18-carat red gold or stainless steel. The first model is the Villeret Quantième Complet Phases de Lune, Ref. 6654N. This 40 mm timepiece is a showcase of Blancpain's expertise in calendar complications. Its dial artfully displays the hours, minutes, seconds, day of the week, month, date, and moon phase. The date is indicated by a classic serpentine hand pointing to a scale on the dial's periphery, while the day and month are shown in two apertures below 12 o'clock.



Powering this model is the Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 6654.4, an automatic movement comprised of 321 components. It operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and provides a substantial 72-hour power reserve. The movement is secured, meaning the wearer can adjust any of the calendar indications at any time of day without risk of damaging the intricate mechanism. Adjustments are made via Blancpain's patented under-lug correctors, which can be operated with a simple press of a finger, eliminating the need for a separate tool and preserving the clean lines of the case. The case itself has been subtly redesigned with a slimmer bezel, a thinner profile, and reworked lugs to enhance its graceful presence on the wrist.



The second model in the new lineup is the Villeret Ultraplate, Ref. 6651N. This 40 mm model presents the Villeret design in its most essential form, featuring a three-hand layout with a date complication. Its defining characteristic is its slimness; the case measures just 8.70 mm in thickness, allowing it to sit comfortably under a shirt cuff. The purity of the design places emphasis on the new dial treatments, whether the warm glow of the golden brown or the subtle texture of the opaline.

Courtesy of Blancpain


Inside the Villeret Ultraplate is the Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1151. This remarkable automatic movement is known for its impressive power reserve of 100 hours, or approximately four days, achieved through the use of two series-coupled barrels. Comprised of 210 components, the movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour) and, like the other models in the collection, features the new openworked gold oscillating weight and exquisite hand-finishing. The combination of a long power reserve and a slim profile makes it an exceptionally practical and versatile dress watch.



The third model is the Villeret Quantième Phases de Lune, Ref. 6126N, offered in a more classically sized 33.20 mm case. This model provides the poetry of the date and moon phase complication in a more compact format. It is available in several versions, including four references that feature a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds, adding a touch of radiance to the watch's appearance. The diamond-set models also feature diamond hour markers, further enhancing their luxurious appeal.



This smaller model is driven by the Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 913QL.P. This automatic movement, made of 246 parts, provides a 40-hour power reserve and operates at 3 Hz. While it shares the same secured calendar functions as its larger sibling, adjustments on the 33.20 mm case are made via traditional correctors set into the caseband. The model serves as a perfect example of Blancpain's ability to scale down complex mechanics without compromising on performance or beauty.

Courtesy of Blancpain


Across all sixteen new references, the commitment to mechanical excellence is paramount. The movements are all designed, developed, and assembled in-house by Blancpain. Each one is decorated in accordance with the highest traditions of Haute Horlogerie, with techniques such as beveling and Côtes de Genève applied to the bridges and the new openworked rotor. The brand's confidence in the reliability and durability of these calibers is underscored by a new five-year warranty that accompanies each watch.



The Villeret Golden Hour collection is a testament to Blancpain's philosophy of innovation as tradition. It demonstrates how a design that has been refined for over forty years can continue to feel fresh and relevant. As Marc A. Hayek concludes, “The Villeret embodies the very essence of Blancpain. Each of its evolutions therefore requires great attention. It is both the expression of our watchmaking tradition and the proof that timeless elegance can always be reinvented with subtlety. One is never overdressed or underdressed with a Villeret.” These new models are not limited editions and are becoming available through Blancpain boutiques and authorized retailers worldwide.



Case: Available in 18 ct red gold or stainless steel. Offered in 40.00 mm (8.70 mm or 10.60 mm thick) and 33.20 mm (10.40 mm thick) diameters. Sapphire crystal front and caseback. Water resistant to 3 bar (30 meters). Some 33.20 mm models feature a diamond-set bezel.

Movement: Three in-house automatic movements: Calibre 6654.4 (complete calendar, 72h power reserve, 4 Hz), Calibre 1151 (three-hand date, 100h power reserve, 3 Hz), and Calibre 913QL.P (date & moon phase, 40h power reserve, 3 Hz). All feature a new openworked gold oscillating weight and have a 5-year warranty.

Dial: Finely grained opaline or golden brown sunburst finishes. Applied 18 ct gold Roman numeral indices with "JB" logo at 12 o'clock. Slender hands with Super-LumiNova® inserts.

Strap: Leather straps in blue-grey, honey, brown, or beige nubuck velvet. Features a quick-change system and a folding clasp.

Reference Number: 6654N (Quantième Complet Phases de Lune), 6651N (Ultraplate), 6126N (Quantième Phases de Lune).

Notes: The collection features a redesigned expressive moon phase with an enlarged aperture and a domed gold moon on a ceramic disc. The 40 mm complete calendar uses patented under-lug correctors for easy adjustment. All models feature a new quick-change strap system for versatility.
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