• Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Mother of Pearl a Legendary Dive Watch Reborn
  • Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Mother of Pearl

    A Legendary Dive Watch Reborn

    Hourstriker Staff
    Words by: Hourstriker Staff
    June 12, 2025
  • A new current is shaping the shores of haute horlogerie as Blancpain introduces a duo of Fifty Fathoms Automatique timepieces conceived for a female audience. The revered dive watch collection now embraces a fresh perspective with the debut of a 38 mm case, a size introduced for the first time to this iconic lineage. These are not merely scaled-down versions of their larger counterparts but holistically re-engineered instruments, presenting a choice between a potent, smoky black model in rich red gold and a vibrant, petal pink variant in modern titanium. This release marks a new chapter for the Fifty Fathoms, one that is distinctly feminine and fiercely adventurous.

    The legacy of the Fifty Fathoms is deeply rooted in the world of underwater exploration. Born in the early 1950s from the vision of Blancpain's then-CEO, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, a passionate diver himself, the original Fifty Fathoms was the first modern diver's watch. It defined the very archetype with its essential features: a unidirectional rotating bezel, automatic winding, anti-magnetic protection, and superior water resistance. It was a tool watch, born of necessity and built for the pioneers of the deep. This new feminine interpretation honors that trailblazing spirit, inspired by Fiechter's own observation that the female divers he knew were often more efficient with their air consumption, allowing for longer, more graceful underwater journeys.

    Courtesy of Blancpain
    Courtesy of Blancpain


    With the introduction of the 38 mm case, Blancpain is making a deliberate and significant statement. The brand has meticulously redesigned the watch's architecture to ensure the proportions are not just smaller, but perfectly balanced and harmonious on a more slender wrist. This new dimension, measuring 38.20 mm in diameter and 12.00 mm in thickness, completes the Fifty Fathoms family, creating a more inclusive collection that caters to a wider array of enthusiasts and sets the stage for future developments within this celebrated line.

    The first of the new pair exudes a powerful and sophisticated aura. Cased in polished 18 ct red gold, it possesses a warm, radiant gleam that elevates it from a purely utilitarian instrument to a piece of wearable art. The polished finish of the case catches the light beautifully, contrasting with the technical nature of its design. This model is a study in luxurious contrasts, blending the robustness of a legendary dive watch with the refined finish of high jewelry, making it a versatile companion for any occasion.

    At the heart of this red gold model lies a captivating dial crafted from black mother-of-pearl. The natural, iridescent material is treated with a subtle dégradé effect, transitioning from a lighter smoky grey at the center to a deep, mysterious black at the periphery. This gradient brings a remarkable sense of depth and movement to the dial, ensuring that no two watches are exactly alike. The applied hour markers, also crafted from red gold and filled with Super-LumiNova®, seem to float above this shimmering, dark sea, offering exceptional clarity.

    Courtesy of Blancpain
    Courtesy of Blancpain


    In stark contrast to the moody sophistication of the black model, the second reference offers a burst of playful, youthful energy. This version is housed in a Grade 23 titanium case, a material prized for its strength, lightness, and hypoallergenic properties. The case is expertly brushed, giving it a soft, matte finish with a subtle greyish tone that provides a contemporary, technical feel. This finish is less about overt shine and more about a quiet confidence that underscores the watch’s sporty character.

    The dial of the titanium model is a celebration of vibrant color. It features a petal pink mother-of-pearl surface, again with a delicate dégradé effect that radiates from a lighter center to a slightly deeper pink at the edge. This luminous dial is framed by a bezel insert that shares its radiant pink hue, creating a harmonious and striking visual impact. The applied indexes on this version are crafted from white gold, providing a cool contrast to the warm pink tones and ensuring legibility.

    A defining characteristic of the Fifty Fathoms collection, and a feature faithfully retained on these new models, is the signature unidirectional rotating bezel. This critical component for divers is topped with a domed sapphire crystal insert, an innovation Blancpain pioneered. The sapphire provides exceptional scratch resistance, protecting the luminous markings beneath it. On the black model, the bezel is a glossy, deep black, while the pink version features a vibrant pink insert, both with a full graduation for timing dives or other events. The domed profile adds a vintage-inspired charm and a distinct tactile feel.

    Powering both of these new timepieces is the Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1153. This self-winding movement is a testament to the brand's technical prowess, visible through a sapphire crystal case back. It is a refined and robust engine, designed for precision and longevity. Its construction involves 186 individual components, all meticulously finished in the grand tradition of Swiss watchmaking, showcasing the beautiful inner workings of the watch.

    Courtesy of Blancpain
    Courtesy of Blancpain


    One of the most user-friendly features of the Calibre 1153 is its remarkable 100-hour power reserve. This impressive autonomy, equivalent to approximately four days, is achieved through the use of two series-coupled barrels. This allows the owner to set the watch aside for an entire weekend and find it still running accurately on Monday morning, a convenience that cannot be overstated in a modern mechanical timepiece.

    Further enhancing the movement's performance is the inclusion of a silicon balance spring. This cutting-edge material offers several key advantages over traditional metal alloys. Silicon is lightweight, shock-resistant, and, most importantly, completely impervious to the effects of magnetic fields. This ensures a higher degree of chronometric stability and accuracy over time, underscoring Blancpain's commitment to integrating modern technology into its classic designs. The movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour.

    The dials of these watches are truly works of art, utilizing the natural beauty of mother-of-pearl to create a unique visual identity. This organic material, harvested from the sea, is known for its captivating iridescence and shimmering overtones. The dégradé, or gradient, coloring applied to both the black and pink versions enhances this natural splendor, creating a focal point that is both dynamic and deeply beautiful.

    Legibility, a cornerstone of the Fifty Fathoms design, is paramount. The hands on both models are bold and distinct, designed in the classic Fifty Fathoms style and generously filled with Super-LumiNova®. This luminescent material is also applied to the geometric hour markers and the bezel markings, ensuring that the time can be read clearly and instantly, whether in the bright light of day or the dark depths of the ocean.

    Courtesy of Blancpain
    Courtesy of Blancpain


    As befits their dive watch heritage, both timepieces boast a substantial water resistance of 30 bar, which is equivalent to approximately 300 meters or 1,000 feet. This level of water resistance is not just for show; it is a genuine capability that ensures the watch is protected from the elements and suitable for serious underwater activities, carrying on the legacy of its formidable predecessors.

    The choice of straps further defines the character of each watch. The red gold model offers a range of sophisticated yet sporty options, including a black tropic-style rubber strap that nods to the watch's vintage roots, as well as black sail-canvas or fabric NATO straps for a more contemporary feel. These options allow the wearer to tailor the look from formal to casual with ease.

    The titanium model, with its playful pink dial, is paired with a striking white fabric NATO strap. This strap is enlivened by two-tone pink stripes—one electric pink and one petal pink—that perfectly complement the colors of the dial and bezel. This pairing completes the watch's vibrant and energetic aesthetic, making it a standout piece designed for an active and expressive lifestyle. A matching titanium bracelet is also available.

    These watches are more than just new additions to a collection; they are a tribute to the profound connection between Blancpain and the marine world. This relationship is formalized through the Blancpain Ocean Commitment, the brand's global initiative to support ocean exploration and preservation. These new Fifty Fathoms models serve as ambassadors for this cause, celebrating the beauty and fragility of the underwater realm.

    This commitment is further exemplified by Blancpain's partnership with the Ocean Photographer of the Year competition. A key part of this collaboration is the Female Fifty Fathoms Award, established in 2021 to honor women photographers whose work shines a light on the wonders and challenges of the ocean. These new timepieces forge a tangible link between this award, the talented women it recognizes, and Blancpain's watchmaking legacy.

    Courtesy of Blancpain
    Courtesy of Blancpain


    Marc A. Hayek, Blancpain's President & CEO, emphasizes this connection, stating, "The Female Fifty Fathoms Award not only celebrates artistic excellence but also the profound bond women share with the ocean." He notes that these watches are designed to "empower women who lead with courage and creativity," mirroring the spirit of the photographers who capture the ocean's story.

    The new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique models are now available as permanent additions to the collection, meaning they are not limited editions. The reference 5007 3644A B64B, in 18 ct red gold with a black mother-of-pearl dial and a choice of straps with a folding clasp, is priced at $34,600 USD. The titanium model, reference 5007 12B44R NAFA, with its pink mother-of-pearl dial and striped NATO strap with a pin buckle, is priced at $18,500 USD. Prices may vary slightly depending on the final strap and clasp configuration selected. These new references offer a compelling new chapter in the enduring story of the Fifty Fathoms.

    Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Mother of Pearl (Red Gold)

    Case: 18 ct red gold case, 38.2 mm diameter, 12.00 mm thickness, 19.00 mm lug width. Water resistant to 30 bar (300 meters). Features a unidirectional domed sapphire bezel and a sapphire crystal case back.

    Movement: Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1153, automatic winding. Features a 100-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, 28 jewels, 186 components, and a frequency of 3 Hz.

    Dial: White mother-of-pearl with a black dégradé effect. Red gold indexes and hands with Super-LumiNova®.

    Strap: Tropic rubber strap with folding clasp. Also available with black sail-canvas or NATO straps.

    Price: $34,600 USD

    Reference Number: 5007 3644A B64B

    Notes: The first Fifty Fathoms model in a new 38 mm case size designed for women. The dégradé mother-of-pearl dial makes each piece unique. Not a limited edition.



    Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique Mother of Pearl (Titanium)

    Case: Grade 23 titanium case, 38.2 mm diameter, 12.00 mm thickness, 19.00 mm lug width. Water resistant to 30 bar (300 meters). Features a unidirectional domed sapphire bezel and a sapphire crystal case back.

    Movement: Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1153, automatic winding. Features a 100-hour power reserve, silicon balance spring, 28 jewels, 186 components, and a frequency of 3 Hz.

    Dial: White mother-of-pearl with a pink dégradé effect. White gold indexes and hands with Super-LumiNova®.

    Strap: Fabric NATO strap with two-tone pink stripes and a pin buckle.

    Price: $18,500 USD

    Reference Number: 5007 12B44R NAFA

    Notes: The first Fifty Fathoms model in a new 38 mm case size designed for women. The dégradé mother-of-pearl dial and vibrant pink bezel offer a playful, sporty aesthetic. Not a limited edition.
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