A horological icon adjusts its proportions.
Blancpain has introduced a new chapter for its celebrated Fifty Fathoms Automatique, presenting a series of models in a 38mm case diameter. This move significantly broadens the accessibility of the legendary diver's watch, offering a more compact and versatile option alongside the existing 45mm and 42mm versions. The introduction of this smaller size is not merely a reduction in scale; it represents a careful reconsideration of the watch's classic design, ensuring that the core identity and robust capabilities of the Fifty Fathoms remain perfectly intact. These new iterations, available in a range of materials including stainless steel, grade 23 titanium, and 18-carat red gold, signal a pivotal evolution for a collection that has defined the modern diver's watch for over seven decades.
The story of the Fifty Fathoms is deeply intertwined with the dawn of underwater exploration. Its creation in 1953 was born not from a marketing brief, but from a genuine need. Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain's CEO at the time and a fervent scuba diving pioneer, sought to create a reliable instrument for his underwater pursuits. The result was a watch that established the foundational blueprint for all subsequent diver's watches. It incorporated a series of innovative features that were revolutionary for their time: a lockable rotating bezel to track dive times, exceptional water resistance, a highly legible dial with luminous markings for visibility in the dark depths, an automatic movement to reduce wear on the crown's water-resistant seals, and anti-magnetic protection to ensure accuracy. These characteristics, born from practical necessity, became the defining pillars of the Fifty Fathoms collection and continue to be its hallmark today.
Courtesy of Blancpain
Visually, the new 38mm models are unmistakably Fifty Fathoms. The silhouette is familiar, retaining the robust yet refined presence that has long characterized the line. The unidirectional rotating bezel, a critical safety feature for divers, is topped with a domed sapphire insert, a signature Blancpain element that provides exceptional scratch resistance and a remarkable sense of depth. The numerals and markings on the bezel are luminous, ensuring clear readability under all lighting conditions. The case itself exhibits a masterful interplay of finishes. The stainless steel version features polished surfaces that catch the light, while the titanium and red gold models opt for a satin-brushed finish that imparts a more technical and understated feel. These thoughtful details ensure that, despite its more modest dimensions, the 38mm Fifty Fathoms commands a powerful presence on the wrist.
The dials of the new 38mm references are offered in classic sunburst blue or black, providing a dynamic and captivating backdrop for the time display. A sunburst finish involves brushing the dial from the center outwards, creating a pattern of radiating lines that play with light, shifting in appearance with every movement of the wrist. This subtle yet sophisticated detail adds a layer of visual interest that elevates the watch beyond a simple tool. The oversized hour markers, a mix of geometric shapes and numerals, are filled with Super-LumiNova, a phosphorescent material that glows brightly in the dark. The hands are similarly treated, ensuring that the time can be read at a quick glance, a crucial requirement for any true diver's watch. The combination of the sunburst finish and the highly legible markers creates a dial that is both aesthetically pleasing and eminently functional.
The introduction of the 38mm case size is a significant development for the Fifty Fathoms collection. For years, the line has been primarily associated with larger case diameters, which, while true to the tool-watch origins of the Fifty Fathoms, may not have been suitable for all wrist sizes or style preferences. The new 38mm models address this directly, offering a more universally wearable option. This size is likely to appeal to a broader audience, including women who appreciate a mechanically sophisticated and sporty watch, as well as men who prefer a more classic and discreet case size. By offering the Fifty Fathoms in 38mm, 42mm, and 45mm, Blancpain has created a comprehensive and inclusive collection that caters to a wide spectrum of tastes and wrist profiles.
Courtesy of Blancpain
The choice of materials for the new 38mm models further enhances their versatility. The polished stainless steel version offers a timeless and classic look, true to the spirit of the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms. It is a watch that can seamlessly transition from a wetsuit to a business suit. The grade 23 titanium model presents a more contemporary and technical interpretation. Titanium is known for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio, making it both incredibly durable and remarkably lightweight on the wrist. This, combined with its hypoallergenic properties and resistance to corrosion, makes it an ideal material for a high-performance sports watch. The satin-brushed finish of the titanium case adds to its modern and understated appeal.
For those seeking a touch of luxury, the 18-carat red gold version offers a rich and sophisticated aesthetic. The warm hue of the red gold, paired with the
Deep Blue sunburst dial, creates a stunning contrast that is both eye-catching and refined. The satin-brushed finish on the gold case tones down the inherent opulence of the material, lending it a more contemporary and wearable feel. This version of the 38mm Fifty Fathoms is a testament to Blancpain's ability to blend high-performance watchmaking with the finest materials and craftsmanship.
Beneath the handsome exterior of the new 38mm Fifty Fathoms beats the Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1150. This self-winding movement is a workhorse of the Blancpain collection, renowned for its reliability and impressive performance. It boasts a remarkable 100-hour power reserve, equivalent to approximately four days, thanks to its two series-coupled barrels. This extended power reserve means the watch can be taken off for a long weekend and will still be running when it's put back on. The movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, which contributes to its long-term accuracy and durability.
Courtesy of Blancpain
A key feature of the Calibre 1150 is its use of a silicon balance spring. Silicon is a material that is completely impervious to magnetism, one of the main enemies of mechanical watch accuracy. It is also highly resistant to temperature variations and shocks, further enhancing the movement's chronometric performance. The use of a silicon balance spring is a testament to Blancpain's commitment to technical innovation and its pursuit of horological perfection. The movement is also beautifully finished, a detail that can be appreciated through the sapphire crystal case back. The 18-carat gold rotor, which winds the watch with the motion of the wrist, features a NAC (a platinum alloy) coating and is designed with an opening inspired by the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms, a subtle nod to the collection's rich heritage.
The new 38mm Fifty Fathoms models are available with a wide range of strap and bracelet options, allowing for a high degree of personalization. These include a "Tropic" style rubber strap, which is a modern interpretation of the rubber straps that were popular on dive watches in the 1960s. A sail-canvas strap offers a more casual and rugged look, while a NATO strap provides a secure and comfortable fit, perfect for active pursuits. For those who prefer a more integrated look, titanium or stainless steel bracelets are also available. These bracelets feature a combination of satin-brushed and polished finishes, creating a sophisticated play of textures that complements the watch case. The availability of these different options ensures that the 38mm Fifty Fathoms can be adapted to suit any occasion or style.
Courtesy of Blancpain
The launch of the new 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique models, alongside the recently introduced mother-of-pearl dial versions, marks a significant expansion of this iconic collection. It demonstrates Blancpain's understanding of the evolving tastes of the watch market and its commitment to making its most legendary models accessible to a wider audience. As Marc A. Hayek, President & CEO of Blancpain, stated, "The Fifty Fathoms is much more than a diver’s watch, it’s a symbol of exploration and innovation. With the addition of new models, we’re responding to a clear demand while reaffirming that this collection was always meant for all wrists." This sentiment encapsulates the spirit behind this new launch – a celebration of a historic design, thoughtfully reimagined for the modern era.
The technical specifications of the 38mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique are as impressive as its aesthetics. The case, measuring 38.20mm in diameter and 12.00mm in thickness, with a lug width of 19.00mm, is water-resistant to 30 bar, which is equivalent to approximately 300 meters. This level of water resistance is more than sufficient for even the most demanding recreational diving activities. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal on both the front and the back, providing exceptional scratch resistance and a clear view of the dial and the movement. The Calibre 1150 movement, with its 28 jewels and 210 components, is a testament to the complexity and craftsmanship that goes into every Blancpain watch.
The dial is a study in legibility and refinement. The indexes are crafted from either red gold or white gold, depending on the case material, and are generously filled with Super-LumiNova. The hands are also treated with this luminous material, ensuring that the time can be read clearly in any lighting condition. The date is displayed in a small aperture, adding a practical complication without cluttering the dial. The overall design of the dial is clean, balanced, and highly functional, staying true to the tool-watch origins of the Fifty Fathoms.
Courtesy of Blancpain
The Fifty Fathoms collection has always been closely linked to the world of ocean exploration and conservation through the Blancpain Ocean Commitment (BOC). This long-standing initiative supports scientific expeditions, ocean exploration projects, and environmental forums around the world. By purchasing a Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, owners are not just acquiring a fine timepiece; they are also contributing to the preservation of the world's oceans. This connection to a greater cause adds another layer of meaning to the ownership of a Fifty Fathoms watch.
The new 38mm models are not a limited edition, which means they will be a permanent part of the Fifty Fathoms collection. This is good news for watch enthusiasts who have been waiting for a more compact version of this iconic diver's watch. The pricing for the new models varies depending on the case material and the choice of strap or bracelet. The stainless steel version is the most accessible, with prices ranging from 14,000 to 16,300 Swiss Francs. The grade 23 titanium model is priced between 15,000 and 16,600 Swiss Francs, while the 18-carat red gold version ranges from 25,600 to 28,500 Swiss Francs. These prices reflect the high level of craftsmanship, technical innovation, and historical significance that are embodied in every Blancpain Fifty Fathoms watch.
Case: Grade 23 titanium, stainless steel or 18 ct red gold; Diameter: 38.20 mm; Thickness: 12.00 mm; Lug width: 19.00 mm; Sapphire crystal and case back; Water resistance: 30 bar (300 meters).
Movement: Blancpain Manufacture Calibre 1150; Automatic winding; 100-hour power reserve; Frequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph); 28 jewels; Features a silicon balance spring and an 18 ct gold rotor.
Dial: Blue or black sunburst finish; Hands and indexes in red or white gold with Super-LumiNova®.
Strap: Available with Tropic rubber, NATO, or sail-canvas straps, as well as grade 23 titanium or stainless steel bracelets with a pin buckle or folding clasp.
Price: Titanium: 15,000 - 16,600 CHF; Stainless Steel: 14,000 - 16,300 CHF; 18 ct Red Gold: 25,600 - 28,500 CHF, depending on strap/bracelet choice.
Reference Number: 5007
Notes: This new 38mm size completes the Fifty Fathoms Automatique line, now offered in 38, 42, and 45 mm. The in-house Calibre 1150 provides a substantial 100-hour power reserve.