Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire

In a bold move that fuses crystalline transparency with mechanical prowess, the watchmaking house of Bianchet has introduced the UltraFino Sapphire. This timepiece represents a significant step in the brand's exploration of modern materials and architectural design, presenting what is currently the thinnest full-sapphire tourbillon available on the market. It’s a creation that doesn't just display its inner workings but uses its very structure as a canvas for light, geometry, and high-performance engineering.



Bianchet has carved a distinct identity by anchoring its design principles in the mathematical harmony of the Golden Ratio. This foundational philosophy is evident throughout their creations, seeking a perfect balance between artistic form and functional resilience. The brand operates at the intersection of contemporary high-horology and performance-driven design, creating tourbillon timepieces that are not merely for show but are engineered to withstand the rigors of an active lifestyle. The UltraFino Sapphire is a direct extension of this vision, pushing the boundaries of material science and mechanical finesse.



The immediate and most captivating feature of the UltraFino Sapphire is its case. Crafted entirely from sapphire crystal, it presents a formidable challenge in watchmaking. Sapphire is second only to diamond in hardness, making it exceptionally scratch-resistant, but this same property makes it notoriously difficult to machine. To create a tonneau-shaped case, with its complex curves and precise angles, requires immense skill and advanced technology. The process demands shaping the crystal with micron-level precision, a task made exponentially more complex by the case's gentle 1.2 mm curvature.



Visually, the full sapphire case acts as a transparent vessel, offering an unobstructed, three-dimensional view of the UT01 caliber within. It transforms the intricate network of gears, bridges, and the mesmerizing flying tourbillon into a floating mechanical sculpture. Light passes through the case from every angle, illuminating the hand-finished components and creating a dynamic interplay of reflections and shadows. The skeletonized structure of the movement is not merely revealed; it is celebrated, with every surface and angle designed to be appreciated from the front, back, and sides.



Achieving a case thickness of just 9.8 mm is a monumental accomplishment in the realm of sapphire watches, where profiles typically range from 11.5 mm to over 23 mm. This slender form factor was a dual challenge, requiring not only the perfection of the sapphire machining process but also the development of an exceptionally slim movement. The synergy between the case construction and the compact caliber is what allows the UltraFino Sapphire to achieve its record-setting thinness without compromising on structural integrity or mechanical performance.



A distinct design and technical element is the white vulcanized rubber joint that seals the sapphire case components. Rather than concealing this functional gasket, Bianchet has integrated it into the aesthetic, creating a clean, graphic line that frames the transparent case. This white border provides a subtle visual contrast that accentuates the tonneau shape and echoes the color of the strap. More importantly, this component is key to the watch's impressive water resistance.



The UltraFino Sapphire boasts a water resistance of 5 ATM, equivalent to 50 meters. This is a notable achievement for a full-sapphire watch, a category where a rating of 3 ATM is more common due to the difficulties in ensuring a perfect seal with such a rigid material. This enhanced durability reinforces Bianchet's commitment to creating watches that are as resilient as they are visually striking, making the UltraFino Sapphire a viable companion for daily wear and not just a piece for special occasions.



The combination of the ultra-thin 9.8 mm profile and the ergonomic curvature of the tonneau case results in a watch that wears with surprising comfort. Despite the inherent density of sapphire, the overall design feels light and balanced on the wrist. The case is shaped to follow the natural contours of the wrist, ensuring a snug and pleasant fit that belies the complexity and robustness of its construction.



At the heart of this crystalline marvel beats the Bianchet UT01 caliber, an ultra-thin automatic movement that is a showcase of technical innovation. Measuring a mere 3.85 mm in height and weighing only 8 grams, this movement is a feat of micro-engineering. It features a flying tourbillon at the 6 o'clock position, which appears to float weightlessly within its cage, completing a full rotation every 60 seconds to counteract the effects of gravity on the escapement.



The construction of the UT01 movement relies heavily on Grade 5 titanium for its bridges and the tourbillon cage. This advanced alloy was chosen for its exceptional properties: it is significantly lighter than steel, highly resistant to corrosion, and possesses a remarkable strength-to-weight ratio. These characteristics are essential for creating a movement that is both lightweight and incredibly durable.



A key performance metric of the UT01 caliber is its shock resistance of 5000 Gs. This level of durability is rarely seen in the world of high-complication watchmaking, especially in movements featuring a delicate tourbillon. Bianchet achieved this resilience through innovative engineering solutions, including a suspended barrel, a redesigned escapement, and an optimized winding and time-setting system, all reinforced with advanced shock protection. This ensures the watch maintains its precision even when subjected to significant impacts.



The flying tourbillon itself is a focal point of the watch. Freed from an upper bridge, its cage rotates in a seemingly unsupported dance, offering a clear view of the balance wheel and escapement in action. This complication, a symbol of horological mastery, is not just a technical feature but an integral part of the watch's kinetic art, drawing the eye and adding a layer of mechanical theater to the timekeeping function.



True to Bianchet's design ethos, the architecture of the movement's bridges is inspired by the Golden Ratio. The open-worked structure creates a sense of depth and harmony, with flowing lines and geometric cutouts that are both aesthetically pleasing and structurally sound. This design language extends to the rotor, which is visible from both the front and back of the watch.



The oscillating weight, responsible for automatically winding the mainspring, is crafted from a block of 18K massive gold. Instead of a traditional semi-circular shape, it is artfully skeletonized into a pattern of twelve interlacing Fibonacci spirals. As the rotor spins with the movement of the wearer's wrist, it creates a captivating visual effect, embodying one of the brand's most poetic and recognizable signatures.



The finishing of the UT01 caliber adheres to the highest standards of haute horlogerie. Every component is meticulously decorated by hand. The titanium bridges feature a satin-brushed finish on their surfaces, while their edges are painstakingly chamfered and polished. This process of hand-bevelling alone requires more than 15 hours of dedicated work from a skilled artisan, resulting in sharp internal angles and gleaming edges that catch the light beautifully.



From a technical standpoint, the UT01 movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour. It is equipped with a balance wheel with variable inertia for stable and precise timekeeping. The caliber contains 29 jewels to reduce friction at key pivot points and is adjusted to maintain accuracy in six different positions, ensuring reliable performance across a range of conditions.



Looking through the sapphire crystal is like peering into a miniature mechanical city. The absence of a traditional dial allows the wearer to appreciate the full depth and complexity of the movement. The hour and minute hands, filled with luminescent material for low-light legibility, seem to float above the intricate landscape of gears, springs, and levers. The transparency of the case amplifies this effect, creating an unparalleled sense of mechanical intimacy.



The UltraFino Sapphire completes what Bianchet refers to as its "trilogy of materials." This approach to contemporary watchmaking showcases the brand's expertise in working with advanced substances. The trilogy began with Grade 5 titanium, prized for its lightness and strength, and high-density carbon composite, which offers extreme rigidity and an almost weightless feel. The introduction of the full-sapphire case adds crystalline transparency, hardness, and visual purity to this lineup, demonstrating that modern engineering materials have a firm place in fine watchmaking.



The watch is delivered with a pristine white strap made from natural vulcanized rubber. The choice of white creates a seamless visual flow from the case, perfectly matching the color of the sealing joint and enhancing the watch's clean, architectural aesthetic. The rubber is soft and pliable, offering excellent comfort and durability for daily wear. It is secured with a folding buckle also crafted from Grade 5 titanium, maintaining material consistency with the movement.



To provide versatility, the UltraFino Sapphire also comes with a second strap in black natural vulcanized rubber. Swapping to the black strap creates a bolder, higher-contrast look, allowing the owner to adapt the watch to different styles or seasons. This thoughtful inclusion adds significant value and practicality to the ownership experience.



The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire redefines what a sapphire-cased watch can be. It is a piece that marries the fragility of its appearance with the robustness of its engineering. It successfully combines the demanding art of skeletonization, the complexity of a tourbillon, and the technical challenge of an all-sapphire construction into a cohesive and wearable work of art. The watch is covered by a five-year guarantee, a testament to the brand's confidence in its craftsmanship. The Bianchet UltraFino Sapphire is priced at 85,500 CHF, excluding taxes.



Case: Full sapphire crystal with white vulcanized rubber joint; Tonneau shape; Dimensions 40 mm x 47.5 mm x 9.8 mm; Water resistance 5 ATM (50 meters).

Movement: Bianchet UT01 automatic flying tourbillon; Grade 5 titanium construction with 18K massive gold rotor; Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 vph); 29 jewels; Shock resistance of 5000 Gs.

Dial: Skeletonized, offering a direct view of the movement.

Strap: White natural vulcanized rubber strap with a grade 5 titanium folding buckle; An additional black natural vulcanized rubber strap is included.

Price: 85,500 CHF (excl. taxes).

Reference Number: UFFTSKSPWH

Notes: Currently the thinnest full-sapphire tourbillon watch ever created at 9.8 mm thick. The movement is an ultra-thin 3.85 mm. The 5 ATM water resistance is exceptional for a full-sapphire case.