A new contender has emerged in the competitive space of haute horlogerie, one that challenges the conventional wisdom that extreme thinness in a watch must come at the expense of durability. The Bianchet B1.618 Flying Tourbillon UltraFino Skeleton Titanium Blue is a timepiece built on a foundation of paradoxes. It is both remarkably slender and impressively robust, a piece of mechanical art designed not for the safety of a display case, but for the rigors of an active, dynamic life. This watch represents a deliberate step into a territory few watchmakers dare to tread, where the complexities of an automatic tourbillon are engineered to withstand the extraordinary.
Bianchet, as a brand, has anchored its entire horological philosophy in the convergence of high-level mechanical engineering and aesthetic harmony. Rather than drawing from centuries of heritage, the company bases its creative and technical principles on a concept far more universal and ancient: the Golden Ratio. This mathematical principle, represented by the number 1.618, is found throughout nature and art, defining proportions that are perceived as inherently beautiful. For Bianchet, this is not a mere marketing angle; it is the guiding force behind the architecture of their movements and the overall design of their timepieces, creating a unique identity in the world of independent watchmaking.
Courtesy of Bianchet
Visually, the B1.618 UltraFino makes an immediate and striking impression. The watch is presented in a tonneau-shaped case, a form that eschews simple circular geometry for a more complex and ergonomic profile. This curved silhouette is crafted from Grade 5 titanium, a material choice that speaks directly to the watch’s dual nature. The surfaces are a study in texture, with a dominant satin-brushed finish that is sharply contrasted by polished bevels, creating a play of light that accentuates the case's sophisticated lines. A vibrant blue line, made of vulcanized rubber, is subtly integrated into the case, providing a flash of color that corresponds with the watch’s name and hints at its sporty capabilities.
The case construction is a feat of modern watchmaking. With dimensions of 40mm in width, 47.39mm in length, and a remarkably slim height of just 8.9mm, the UltraFino is designed for supreme comfort. The curvature of the case allows it to conform seamlessly to the wrist, making its presence felt through its visual impact rather than its weight or bulk. The use of Grade 5 titanium is crucial here, offering a strength-to-weight ratio that far exceeds that of steel, ensuring the watch is both light on the wrist and highly resistant to scratches and corrosion. This thoughtful engineering ensures the watch is exceptionally wearable on a daily basis.
Beyond its physical form, the case is engineered for genuine performance. The integration of a vulcanized rubber seam is not just an aesthetic choice but also a functional one, enhancing the timepiece’s resilience. The watch is rated for a water resistance of 5 ATM (50 meters), providing ample protection from the elements for everyday wear. This level of protection, combined with its slim profile, makes it a versatile companion for nearly any occasion, from a formal event to a casual weekend outing. The front and back are protected by glare-proof sapphire crystals, ensuring a clear view of the mechanical intricacy within, free from distracting reflections.
The true marvel of the B1.618 UltraFino, however, lies in its ability to reconcile its slender form with a staggering level of durability. The watch boasts a shock resistance of up to 5,000 Gs. To put this into perspective, this is a level of force that would render most mechanical timepieces, especially those featuring a delicate complication like a tourbillon, completely inoperable. This achievement fundamentally challenges the notion of the ultra-thin watch as a fragile object, repositioning it as a high-performance machine capable of withstanding intense physical activity.
Courtesy of Bianchet
At the core of this capability is the Caliber UT01, Bianchet’s first automatic flying tourbillon movement. This caliber is the heart and soul of the UltraFino, a micro-mechanical engine designed from the ground up to embody the brand's ethos. The entire movement is a testament to miniaturization and strength, measuring a mere 3.85mm in thickness and weighing an astonishingly light 8 grams. It operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, and is adjusted to six positions to ensure chronometric stability.
The choice of materials for the movement is as deliberate as in the case. The mainplate and bridges are all crafted from Grade 5 titanium, creating a structural foundation that is incredibly light, rigid, and non-magnetic. Even the cage of the flying tourbillon, which makes a full rotation every 60 seconds, is constructed from titanium. This consistency of material ensures structural integrity and resilience. In a striking contrast to the technical gray of the titanium, the oscillating weight, or rotor, is fashioned from solid gold, adding a touch of preciousness and providing the necessary mass for efficient automatic winding.
The flying tourbillon itself is the star of the mechanical show. Unlike a traditional tourbillon, which is supported by a bridge on both the top and bottom, a flying tourbillon is cantilevered, supported only from below. This construction offers an unobstructed, panoramic view of the rotating escapement, allowing the wearer to fully appreciate the "whirlwind" in action. In the skeletonized context of the B1.618, this complication becomes the focal point, a constantly beating heart that brings the entire watch to life. The hand-finishing on the tourbillon cage, including meticulous hand-bevelling, elevates it to a piece of kinetic sculpture.
This is where Bianchet’s dedication to the Golden Ratio becomes most apparent. The architecture of the Caliber UT01 is not arbitrary; it is a deliberate expression of geometric harmony. The solid gold rotor is not a simple semi-circle; it is intricately designed with twelve interlacing Fibonacci spirals, a direct visual representation of the mathematical sequence that leads to the Golden Ratio. On the reverse side of the movement, the bridges form a series of concentric golden circles that both support the oscillating weight and play a crucial role in absorbing and dissipating the energy from shocks.
Courtesy of Bianchet
Achieving the movement's ultra-thin profile required a series of innovative engineering solutions that go far beyond simple miniaturization. One of the key breakthroughs was the implementation of a suspended mainspring barrel. By designing a system that eliminates the traditional ratchet wheel, Bianchet’s engineers were able to save critical vertical space within the movement's architecture. This innovation was achieved without compromising performance, as the barrel still provides a healthy power reserve of 60 hours.
Further ingenuity is found in the tourbillon and escapement assembly. The titanium tourbillon cage, which itself measures just 2.66mm, houses a large balance wheel with variable inertia screws. This design choice preserves the visual appeal and balance of the component while providing wide functional margins for adjustment and accuracy. This ensures that the watch’s precision is not sacrificed in the quest for a slim profile, maintaining reliable performance under various conditions.
To ensure the movement could withstand real-world impacts, the engineers also developed a custom architecture for the winding and setting mechanisms. This was designed specifically to reduce friction and improve the efficiency of energy transfer throughout the gear train, resulting in a smooth and refined tactile experience when winding the watch or setting the time. Furthermore, advanced shock-absorbing components were integrated at both the balance wheel and at key structural points of the movement to protect the most delicate parts from the violent forces that can be induced by the rotor's movement during a sudden impact.
The ultimate validation of this robust construction came not from a laboratory, but from the world of professional sports. Bianchet ambassador and professional tennis player Alexander Bublik wore the B1.618 UltraFino on his wrist throughout his tournament season, including a quarterfinal appearance at Roland-Garros. This provided a grueling, real-world stress test for the timepiece, subjecting it to the constant shock of powerful serves, explosive sprints, and one of the most feared double-handed backhands on the professional circuit.
Courtesy of Bianchet
This field test was a resounding success. The Caliber UT01 movement remained precise and perfectly reliable, withstanding the punishing environment of professional tennis without faltering. The experience led one member of the Bianchet development team to remark, "If it can handle Bublik’s backhand, it can handle anything." This collaboration was more than a marketing exercise; it was proof of concept, demonstrating that Bianchet had successfully created a piece of fine watchmaking that does not need to be babied.
With a skeletonized watch, the movement becomes the dial. The B1.618 UltraFino offers a captivating view into its mechanical world. The absence of a traditional dial plate reveals a remarkable sense of depth, with layers of hand-finished titanium bridges creating a three-dimensional cityscape. The finishing is executed to a high standard, with a dynamic interplay of sand-blasted, satin-brushed, and polished surfaces. This textural contrast, combined with the extensive hand-bevelling on the edges of the bridges and tourbillon cage, creates a visual experience that is both technical and artistic. The blue accents on the flange provide a clear track for the minutes, ensuring legibility while tying the aesthetic together.
The timepiece is offered with a dual strap system to maximize its versatility. The first option is a fully integrated bracelet crafted from Grade 5 titanium. This bracelet flows seamlessly from the lines of the tonneau case, creating an unbroken, sculptural form that enhances the watch's ergonomic design. The finish of the bracelet perfectly matches that of the case, reinforcing the sense of a single, cohesive object.
For a different look and feel, the watch also comes with a vulcanized natural rubber strap. This option enhances the sporty character of the timepiece and offers an alternative for more casual or athletic situations. The integration of this strap is just as thoughtful, designed to meet perfectly with the case’s integrated rubber seam, maintaining the fluid lines of the design. The rubber strap is fitted with a titanium folding clasp, ensuring security and comfort on the wrist.
Courtesy of Bianchet
In synthesizing these elements, the Bianchet B1.618 UltraFino Skeleton Titanium Blue establishes itself as a truly contemporary piece of haute horlogerie. It is a watch born from a vision that performance and refinement are not mutually exclusive. The design, guided by the artistic principles of the Golden Ratio, is executed with cutting-edge materials and engineering solutions that deliver on the promise of a tourbillon built for the modern world.
The Bianchet B1.618 Flying Tourbillon UltraFino Skeleton Titanium Blue is priced at 60,500 CHF, exclusive of taxes. Each timepiece is backed by a five-year guarantee, a testament to the brand’s confidence in its innovative engineering and meticulous craftsmanship. This positions the watch in a competitive segment of the market, but its unique combination of an ultra-thin automatic flying tourbillon, a highly shock-resistant and wearable design, and a distinct aesthetic philosophy allows it to carve out a compelling niche all its own.
Case: Tonneau shape in Grade 5 Titanium with vulcanized rubber; Dimensions: 40mm x 47.39mm x 8.9mm; Glare-proof sapphire crystal front and back; Water resistance 5 ATM; Shock resistance 5000Gs.
Movement: Caliber Bianchet UT01; Automatic Flying Tourbillon; 3.85mm thick; Frequency 3Hz (21,600 vph); 29 jewels; 60-hour power reserve; Titanium mainplate, bridges, and tourbillon cage with solid gold rotor.
Dial: Skeleton dial with movement architecture guided by the Golden Ratio 1.618.
Strap: Includes two options: an integrated Grade 5 Titanium bracelet and a natural vulcanized rubber strap with a titanium folding clasp.
Price: 60,500 CHF (excluding taxes).
Reference Number: UFFTSKTNBL
Notes: An ultra-thin automatic tourbillon designed for extreme durability, withstanding shocks over 5,000 Gs. The movement was field-tested on the wrist of professional tennis player Alexander Bublik during tournaments.