At the nexus of architectural design and high-performance mechanical engineering, the world of contemporary watchmaking continues to evolve, pushing the boundaries of what is possible in both material science and aesthetic expression. It is within this dynamic landscape that Bianchet introduces a striking new interpretation of its ultra-thin tourbillon, the UltraFino Gold Edition. Unveiled at the prestigious WatchTime New York event, this timepiece represents a significant step for the brand, translating its established design language of geometric harmony and technical prowess into the warm, substantial medium of 18K rose gold. The release signals a maturation of the UltraFino collection, offering a precious metal variant that sacrifices none of the performance characteristics that have come to define the brand's modern approach to Haute Horlogerie.
The Bianchet brand itself is built upon a philosophy that marries the seemingly disparate worlds of artistic proportion and raw mechanical capability. Central to its identity is the principle of the Golden Ratio, the mathematical proportion found throughout nature and art that is believed to create the most aesthetically pleasing compositions. This foundational concept is not merely a marketing footnote but is deeply embedded in the architecture of their watches, from the curves of the case to the intricate spiraling design of the movement's rotor. Bianchet’s mission is to craft tourbillon timepieces that are not delicate objects to be admired from afar, but robust instruments engineered for the rigors of modern life, all while adhering to the highest standards of Swiss watchmaking tradition and finishing.
Courtesy of Bianchet
This commitment to a core design ethos allows Bianchet to create a cohesive and recognizable identity in a crowded market. Unlike manufactures with centuries of history, Bianchet forges its path by focusing on a contemporary vision of high watchmaking. The brand consistently leverages advanced materials, such as the titanium found in its movements, alongside uncompromising craftsmanship and exceptional hand-finishing. The result is a product that is as much an exercise in engineering performance as it is an artistic statement, a wearable sculpture governed by the universal laws of proportion and beauty. Each timepiece is a testament to this pursuit, blending a pure, sculptural style with the kind of durability and strength one might expect from a dedicated sports watch.
The UltraFino Gold Edition is the latest chapter in this story, joining a collection that has been dedicated to exploring architectural harmony and the practical application of the Golden Ratio. The collection’s name itself, UltraFino, speaks to its primary physical characteristic: its remarkable thinness. However, this slim profile is not achieved at the cost of resilience. Instead, it demonstrates a sophisticated understanding of material science and movement construction, proving that a complex, finely finished tourbillon can also be a reliable daily companion. The introduction of a solid gold model builds upon this foundation, adding a layer of classic luxury and visual warmth to the collection’s technical, modernist soul.
Visually, the UltraFino Gold Edition is a study in contrasts. The substantial presence of the 18K rose gold case immediately conveys a sense of weight and value, while the tonneau shape gives it a distinctly modern and ergonomic profile. The case measures 40 mm in width by 47.5 mm in length, with a case height of just 8.9 mm, dimensions that ensure a commanding yet comfortable presence on the wrist. The surfaces of the gold are expertly finished with a satin brush that softens its gleam, while polished chamfers along the edges catch and play with the light, accentuating the case’s complex geometry and architectural lines. This careful interplay of finishes adds visual depth and sophistication, preventing the large gold surface from appearing monolithic.
Courtesy of Bianchet
The case construction is robust, designed to withstand the pressures of daily wear. The crown, also crafted from 18K rose gold and signed with the Bianchet ‘B’, is nestled into a protective recess, safeguarding it from accidental impacts. This thoughtful engineering extends to its water resistance, which is rated to 5 atmospheres, or 50 meters. While not a dive watch, this level of protection ensures that the watch is safe from rain, splashes, and the incidental exposure to water encountered in everyday life, reinforcing the idea that this is a tourbillon meant to be worn and lived with, not locked away.
At the heart of the UltraFino Gold Edition beats the in-house Calibre UT01, an automatic ultra-thin tourbillon movement that is a masterpiece of modern engineering. The entire movement is crafted from titanium, a material chosen for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio. It weighs a mere 8 grams, contributing to the overall comfort of the watch despite its gold case. The movement’s components are treated with a deep black PVD coating, creating a stunning visual counterpoint to the warm rose gold of the case and hands. This stark contrast is not just an aesthetic choice; it serves to highlight the intricate, skeletonized architecture of the caliber.
One of the most impressive specifications of the Calibre UT01 is its extraordinary shock resistance of up to 5000 Gs. This is a remarkable feat for any mechanical movement, let alone a tourbillon, which is traditionally considered a delicate complication. This level of durability is achieved through meticulous engineering and the use of modern materials, fundamentally changing the ownership proposition of a tourbillon watch. It transforms the complication from a fragile luxury into a resilient and reliable timekeeping partner, capable of withstanding the jolts and vibrations of an active lifestyle. The movement’s slimness, at just 3.85 mm thick, further showcases the technical virtuosity of the Bianchet watchmakers.
Courtesy of Bianchet
The kinetic focal point of the timepiece is the flying tourbillon, located at the 6 o'clock position. The cage, which makes a full rotation every 60 seconds to counteract the effects of gravity on the escapement, is crafted entirely from titanium to minimize its weight and energy consumption. As a "flying" tourbillon, it is supported only from below, lacking a traditional upper bridge. This construction enhances the visual effect, making the tourbillon cage appear to float weightlessly within the movement’s architectural frame, offering an unobstructed view of its mesmerizing dance.
The finishing of the Calibre UT01 is executed to the highest standards of Swiss Haute Horlogerie. The main plate and bridges, visible through both the front and back sapphire crystals, are extensively skeletonized, revealing the intricate gear train and mechanical workings within. More than 15 hours are dedicated to the hand-finishing of each movement, with artisans painstakingly applying traditional techniques. These include anglage, where the sharp edges of the bridges are beveled and polished by hand to a brilliant shine, a process that requires immense skill and a steady hand. The application of mirror polishing, satin brushing, and sandblasting on different components creates a rich tapestry of textures that adds immense visual depth and demonstrates a profound respect for artisanal craft.
Powering the movement is an 18K gold rotor, visible through the exhibition caseback. Rather than a simple semi-circular mass, the rotor has been artfully shaped into twelve interlacing spirals. This design is a direct nod to the brand's core philosophy, representing the Fibonacci sequence and the Golden Ratio. As the rotor spins with the movement of the wearer's wrist, it becomes a dynamic sculpture, a constant reminder of the principles of natural harmony that guided the watch's creation. The use of gold for the rotor also adds necessary mass, ensuring efficient winding of the mainspring.
In place of a conventional dial, the UltraFino Gold Edition offers an unobstructed view into the heart of the machine. The open-worked structure of the black PVD-treated movement serves as the backdrop for the time-telling elements. To harmonize with the case, the hands and applied hour markers are also rendered in rose gold. This choice ensures perfect legibility, as the warm, reflective gold stands out with striking clarity against the matte and satin-finished black components of the movement below. Time can be read at a quick glance, a practical consideration that is often overlooked in highly skeletonized designs. The hands are faceted and sharp, complementing the angular, modern aesthetic of the case and movement architecture.
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Bianchet offers the UltraFino Gold Edition in two distinct configurations, catering to different tastes and lifestyles. The first version features a fully integrated bracelet crafted from solid 18K rose gold. The design of the bracelet flows seamlessly from the lines of the case, creating a unified and powerful statement piece. The links are faceted and feature the same alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes as the case, ensuring a cohesive and visually dynamic appearance from every angle. This version exudes a sense of pure luxury and continuity of form.
Alternatively, the watch is available on a high-quality black rubber strap. This option provides a sportier and more contemporary character, creating a bold contrast between the precious metal of the case and the technical, modern material of the strap. The rubber strap is fitted with a matching 18K rose gold pin buckle, ensuring that the luxurious feel is maintained throughout. This version offers a more understated, though no less refined, aesthetic, highlighting the watch’s versatility and its identity as a high-performance luxury object. The version with the integrated gold bracelet also includes the rubber strap, offering the owner the flexibility to change the watch's character to suit any occasion.
The debut of this timepiece at WatchTime New York in October 2025 marks Bianchet's first participation in the premier watch collecting event in North America. This strategic launch underscores the brand’s ambitions for global expansion while reinforcing its deep roots in Swiss watchmaking tradition. The event provides the perfect platform for collectors and enthusiasts to experience the complete UltraFino collection firsthand, with the new Gold Edition standing as its radiant and commanding highlight. It is a clear statement of intent from a brand that is confidently carving out its own niche in the world of independent high watchmaking.
Courtesy of Bianchet
The Bianchet UltraFino Gold Edition is a compelling synthesis of classical luxury and contemporary performance. It respects the traditions of fine watchmaking through its intricate tourbillon complication and meticulous hand-finishing, yet it completely redefines the context in which such a watch can be worn. With its robust construction, impressive shock resistance, and practical water resistance, it is a tourbillon conceived for the realities of modern life. It is a timepiece that is meant to be worn with confidence and ease, a reliable partner for every day that also happens to be a work of mechanical art.
The pricing for the Bianchet UltraFino Gold Edition reflects its materials and mechanical complexity. The version delivered on the black rubber strap is priced at $98,500, exclusive of taxes. For the collector who desires the full expression of this design, the model with the integrated 18K rose gold bracelet, which also includes the additional rubber strap for versatility, is priced at $135,800, exclusive of taxes. Both models come with a five-year guarantee, a testament to the brand's confidence in the quality and durability of their creations. This new release is more than an addition to a collection; it is a definitive statement about the future of performance-oriented luxury watchmaking.
Case: Solid 18K rose gold. Dimensions 40mm × 47.5mm × 8.9mm. Water resistance 5 ATM (50 meters).
Movement: In-house Calibre UT01 automatic flying tourbillon. Titanium with black PVD treatment. 18K gold rotor. Shock resistance of 5000G. 3.85mm thick.
Dial: Skeletonized. Rose gold hands and hour markers.
Strap: Available with an integrated 18K rose gold bracelet or a black rubber strap with an 18K rose gold pin buckle.
Price: USD $135,800 (bracelet version, includes rubber strap) or USD $98,500 (rubber strap only). Prices exclude taxes.
Notes: The movement is ultra-thin at 3.85mm and extremely durable with a 5000G shock resistance. The 18K gold rotor features a design of twelve interlacing Fibonacci spirals, reflecting the brand's Golden Ratio design philosophy.