Bell & Ross BR-X3

Bell & Ross has carved a distinct niche for itself by adhering to a design philosophy deeply rooted in the instrumentation of aircraft cockpits. The brand's signature "circle within a square" case shape, most famously embodied by the BR-01 and its more wearable successor, the BR-03, became an icon of modern watch design. It was a bold departure from traditional round cases, offering a functionalist aesthetic that was both utilitarian and visually striking. For years, the BR-03 has served as the versatile backbone of the brand's collection, a canvas for various complications and material executions. With the introduction of the new BR-X3 collection, Bell & Ross elevates its core design to a new level of technical sophistication, merging the familiar silhouette with an advanced, multi-component case architecture and, crucially, a high-performance manufacture movement.



The journey of Bell & Ross began in 1992, founded by two lifelong friends, Bruno Belamich (the "Bell") and Carlos Rosillo (the "Ross"). Their shared vision was to create professional timekeeping instruments that met the stringent demands of aviators, divers, and even bomb disposal experts. Their initial principle was "function shapes form," a mantra that guided their early creations. To achieve the required level of quality and durability, they initially partnered with the German watchmaker Sinn, who produced their first watches. This collaboration allowed the fledgling brand to establish its reputation for creating tough, legible, and reliable tool watches. By the early 2000s, Bell & Ross had established its own production facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, gaining the independence to fully realize its creative vision and solidifying its status as a true Swiss watch manufacturer.



The launch of the BR-01 in 2005 was a watershed moment. Its large, 46mm square case was a direct translation of a cockpit clock onto the wrist. It was audacious, uncompromising, and instantly recognizable, cementing the brand's identity in the collective consciousness of watch enthusiasts. The subsequent release of the BR-03 offered the same powerful aesthetic in a more manageable 42mm (and later 41mm) case, broadening its appeal and making it a commercial and critical success. While the core collection focused on refining this iconic design, the "X" series was established as the brand's experimental laboratory. It was here that Bell & Ross pushed the boundaries of materials, mechanics, and design, drawing inspiration from the world of experimental aviation and secretive aerospace projects, where "X" designates prototypes and top-secret advancements.



The BR-X lineup has consistently represented the brand's most forward-thinking concepts. From skeletonized chronographs in forged carbon to tourbillons housed in sapphire cases, the "X" models have showcased the pinnacle of Bell & Ross's technical capabilities. The introduction of the BR-X3 continues this tradition, but with a significant shift in focus. Instead of being a completely separate and often highly complicated offshoot, the BR-X3 brings this experimental ethos directly into the architecture of the core BR-03 design. It represents a maturation of the line, integrating high-horology elements like a manufacture caliber and a complex case construction into the brand's most recognizable form, making the avant-garde more accessible while significantly enhancing the flagship model.



The architecture of the BR-X3's case is a radical departure from the monobloc construction of the standard BR-03. While it maintains the 41mm width, the case is deconstructed and re-engineered as a multi-part assembly. This "sandwich" style construction is not merely an aesthetic choice; it is a technical feat that opens up a world of possibilities for combining different materials, colors, and finishes. This modularity allows for a more dynamic and intricate design. Looking at the watch from the side reveals the layers of its construction, showcasing how lightweight yet robust materials can be skillfully integrated. This approach transforms the familiar square case into a complex, technical object that invites closer inspection, revealing a depth and sophistication not seen before in the standard collection.



Leading the new collection is the BR-X3 Black Titanium, a model that fully embraces the high-tech, instrument-panel spirit of the brand. The case is machined from micro-blasted Grade 2 titanium, a material prized in aerospace for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio. The finish is a uniform, non-reflective matte grey that absorbs light and reinforces its utilitarian purpose. This main titanium chassis is protected by a black rubber bezel and decorative side pillars, which add a tactile element and provide shock absorption. The screw-down crown is shielded by a substantial crown guard finished in black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon), adding to the watch's rugged and stealthy profile. The entire assembly feels purposeful and engineered, a lightweight yet incredibly solid presence on the wrist.



The dial of the Black Titanium model continues this theme of technical complexity. It is built using a three-plate construction, creating a visual sense of depth. The base layer is a matt black varnish, providing a dark, non-reflective backdrop. The most striking feature is the central X-shaped applique, finished in micro-blasted grey metal. This signature "X" is not just decorative; it functions as a bridge that frames the two key complications. It surrounds the large date window at the 3 o'clock position and the innovative power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock. The power reserve is cleverly displayed as a 3-day cutout, directly reflecting the movement's 70-hour capacity. This layout is both graphically strong and intuitively functional.



Legibility, a cornerstone of Bell & Ross design, is paramount. The indexes are not printed but are applied "Baignoire-style" appliques that are incorporated into the steeply angled 60-minute flange. These indexes, along with the large, skeletonized hour and minute hands, are generously filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1, which emits a powerful green glow in low-light conditions. This ensures that the time, date, and power reserve are all clearly readable at a glance, day or night. The dial is a masterclass in information hierarchy, presenting its data in a clean, organized, and visually compelling manner that honors its cockpit instrument heritage.



To complete the package, the BR-X3 Black Titanium is fitted with an openworked black rubber strap. The perforations in the strap are not just a design choice; they enhance breathability and flexibility, making the watch more comfortable to wear over long periods. The strap integrates seamlessly with the case, and is secured by a pin buckle also crafted from micro-blasted titanium, ensuring a cohesive look and feel throughout the entire timepiece. Every element has been considered to create a modern, high-performance instrument.



Complementing the stealthy titanium model is the BR-X3 Blue Steel, which offers a different, yet equally compelling, take on the new design. Where the titanium version is a pure tool watch, the steel model introduces a measure of polished refinement. The 41mm case is crafted from stainless steel, featuring a dynamic interplay of satin-finished and polished surfaces. This contrast of finishes catches the light in a way the matte titanium cannot, giving the watch a more versatile character that can transition from casual to more formal settings. The key visual highlight is the use of blue anodized aluminum for the bezel and the decorative side pillars, providing a vibrant and striking contrast against the silver-toned steel.



The dial of the Blue Steel variant is particularly captivating. The base plate is finished with a deep blue sunray varnish that radiates from the center, creating a dynamic effect that changes with the ambient light. Over this base, the polished and rhodium-plated appliques, including the central X-shaped bridge, create a bright, metallic counterpoint. This combination of the sunray blue and polished rhodium results in a dial that feels both technical and luxurious. The layout remains the same, with the date at 3 o'clock and the 3-day power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock, but the color and finish give it a completely different personality.



Just like its titanium counterpart, the Blue Steel model prioritizes legibility. The polished and rhodium-plated "Baignoire-style" indexes and skeletonized hands are filled with the same white Super-LumiNova® X1, ensuring excellent visibility in the dark. The combination of the deep blue dial and the bright, luminescent hands and markers creates a high-contrast display that is easy to read. The anti-reflective sapphire crystal further enhances clarity by minimizing glare, allowing the intricate details of the multi-layered dial to be fully appreciated.



The BR-X3 Blue Steel is paired with a matching blue openworked rubber strap, which perfectly complements the blue aluminum elements of the case. The strap is secured with a pin buckle made from satin-finished and polished steel, mirroring the finishing of the case itself. This attention to detail ensures that the watch presents as a unified and thoughtfully designed object from every angle. It is a timepiece that balances an avant-garde, futuristic design with a sophisticated execution.



At the heart of both BR-X3 models is the calibre BR-CAL.323. This is arguably the most significant upgrade to the collection. It is an automatic mechanical movement developed as a manufacture calibre for Bell & Ross, marking a major step forward in the brand's in-house capabilities. The presence of this movement elevates the BR-X3 from a design-focused watch to a serious piece of horology. It is not just about looks; the performance backs up the high-tech exterior.



The BR-CAL.323 is certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), an independent body that tests movements for their precision and accuracy over 15 days in various positions and temperatures. This certification is a guarantee of reliability and high performance. Furthermore, the movement provides a substantial power reserve of approximately 70 hours. This "weekend-proof" autonomy means the owner can take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on Monday morning without needing to reset or rewind it, a practical benefit for daily wear.



The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case-back, which is tinted black on the titanium model. This allows for a view of the custom oscillating weight and the fine finishing of the calibre within. The commitment to this new movement is further underscored by the impressive 5-year warranty that accompanies each BR-X3 watch. This extended warranty is a testament to the brand's confidence in the durability and long-term performance of the BR-CAL.323, offering significant peace of mind to the owner.



The BR-X3 collection successfully reinvents one of modern watchmaking's most recognizable designs. By integrating a complex, multi-part case construction and a high-performance manufacture movement, Bell & Ross has added significant technical depth and horological credibility to its iconic BR-03 platform. These watches are aimed at enthusiasts who appreciate the brand's unique aeronautical inspiration but desire a higher level of mechanical sophistication and avant-garde design.



The Bell & Ross BR-X3 collection is positioned at the premium end of the luxury sports watch market. The BR-X3 Blue Steel, with its polished and satin-finished case, is priced at $7,200. The more technical BR-X3 Black Titanium, featuring its lightweight and robust micro-blasted titanium construction, is available for $8,300. Both models represent a compelling proposition for those seeking a timepiece with a unique design identity backed by a certified, high-performance manufacture movement.



BR-X3 Black Titanium



Case: 41 mm wide, 13.3 mm thick. Micro-blasted grade 2 titanium. Screw-down crown, black DLC crown guard. Black rubber bezel and decorative side pillar. Black tinted sapphire case-back. Water resistance of 100 metres.

Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.323. Manufacture. Automatic mechanical. COSC-certified. Approximately 70-hour power reserve. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o'clock, power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock.

Dial: Three-plate construction with matt black varnished base and micro-blasted appliques. "Baignoire-style" indexes and skeletonised hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1.

Strap: Openworked black rubber strap with micro-blasted titanium pin buckle.

Price: $8,300

Reference Number: BRX3R-BL-TI/SRB

Notes: Features a manufacture calibre with a 5-year warranty. The complex "sandwich" case construction combines lightweight titanium and rubber. Power reserve is shown with a unique 3-day display.





BR-X3 Blue Steel



Case: 41 mm wide, 13.30 mm thick. Satin-finished and polished steel. Screw-down crown and crown guard. Blue anodised aluminium bezel and decorative side pillar. Sapphire case-back. Water resistance of 100 metres.

Movement: Calibre BR-CAL.323. Manufacture. Automatic mechanical. COSC-certified. Approximately 70-hour power reserve. Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date at 3 o'clock, power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock.

Dial: Three-plate construction with a blue sunray varnished base and polished rhodium-plated appliques. Polished "Baignoire-style" indexes and skeletonised hands filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1.

Strap: Blue openworked rubber strap with a satin-finished and polished steel pin buckle.

Price: $7,200

Reference Number: BRX3R-BLU-ST/SRB

Notes: Features a manufacture calibre with a 5-year warranty. The case mixes satin and polished steel finishes with vibrant blue anodised aluminium details. Power reserve is shown with a unique 3-day display.