Baltic MR Moissanite

The Baltic MR series is concluding its production cycle with a final release designated as the MR Moissanite, a project developed in collaboration with designer Jas and Andrea Casalagno. Initially conceived as an experimental proof of concept rather than a serial production model, this final edition represents a distinct departure from the strictly utilitarian design language typically associated with the brand's core offerings. The project synthesizes the structural parameters of a traditional 1940s dress watch with the high-contrast material applications prevalent in 1970s horology, resulting in a dual-reference release that pairs a conventional steel chassis with a gem-set bezel. By integrating laboratory-grown stones into a standard 36mm format, the manufacturer explores the visual tension between accessible mechanical watchmaking and traditional jewelry aesthetics.

The defining characteristic of this final edition is the application of baguette-cut moissanite stones along the circumference of the bezel. Moissanite, scientifically classified as silicon carbide, presents specific optical and physical properties that distinguish it from the standard cubic zirconia often utilized in accessible gem-set timepieces. Originating as a naturally occurring mineral discovered in meteoric craters, the material used in modern horology is entirely laboratory-grown, yielding a hardness rating of 9.25 on the Mohs scale, which ensures substantial resistance to abrasion compared to traditional glass or mineral crystal substitutes. Furthermore, silicon carbide possesses a refractive index of 2.65 to 2.69, which is demonstrably higher than that of a natural diamond, resulting in a distinct dispersion of light that produces high-frequency chromatic flashes under direct illumination.

The utilization of baguette-cut stones in this specific application serves a deliberate geometric purpose, prioritizing structural linearity over the maximum light refraction typically associated with brilliant-cut alternatives. The step-cut facets of the baguette profile align with the parallel boundaries of the circular bezel, creating an uninterrupted sequence of rectangular forms that frame the dial without obscuring the underlying architectural geometry of the case. This specific gem-setting technique requires precise calibration of the mounting channels to ensure that the sequential stones sit completely flush against one another, minimizing the visible metal between the synthetic gems and maintaining a continuous perimeter of high-refractive material. This approach sharply contrasts with the standard brushed or polished steel bezels found on previous iterations of the MR series, marking a significant material evolution for the platform's final production run.

The Case and Dial

The external architecture of the MR Moissanite relies on a 316L stainless steel case that measures precisely 36mm in diameter, maintaining the classical proportions that defined the initial release of the collection. The case structure features a compact 44mm lug-to-lug measurement, ensuring that the profile remains constrained within the boundaries of a standard wrist, while the overall thickness is recorded at 9.9mm when incorporating the high-domed crystal. By utilizing 316L stainless steel, an austenitic alloy known for its high corrosion resistance and low carbon content, the manufacturer ensures that the watch remains impervious to typical environmental degradation and saline exposure. The structural finishing exhibits a clear delineation between surfaces, applying a high-polish finish to the top facets of the extended lugs to complement the refractive qualities of the moissanite, while the horizontal flanks of the case retain a strict linear brushing to absorb ambient light and reduce the overall visual mass of the profile.

A high-domed hesalite crystal shields the dial, a material choice that fundamentally alters the optical reading of the underlying display compared to modern synthetic sapphire equivalents. Hesalite, a form of polymethyl methacrylate, introduces a specific type of peripheral distortion that magnifies the outer edges of the dial and bends incoming light along the curvature of the dome, recreating the visual characteristics of mid-century timepieces. While polymethyl methacrylate is highly susceptible to superficial surface scratches compared to corundum-based sapphire, its inherent elasticity provides superior impact resistance, allowing the material to absorb sudden shocks without shattering into the movement cavity. This specific crystal geometry accounts for nearly two millimeters of the watch's total thickness, meaning the central steel chassis measures only 8mm in height, contributing significantly to the low center of gravity when strapped to the wrist.

The manufacturer offers two distinct dial variations for this final edition, categorized as the Classic and the Roulette, both of which utilize a deep, high-gloss black base lacquer that acts as a negative visual space against the highly reflective perimeter. The Classic iteration employs applied Breguet numerals that undergo a high-polish treatment, creating a consistent metallic reflection that harmonizes with the moissanite stones while remaining legible against the dark lacquer substrate. Conversely, the Roulette variant introduces a brushed metallic sector track that physically divides the dial into distinct concentric zones, separating the central hour indicators from the peripheral minute track. This brushed sector interrupts the glossy base, providing a matte structural contrast that anchors the visual layout and heavily references the scientific, instrument-style sector dials produced during the late 1930s and early 1940s.

Both dial configurations feature an asymmetrical sub-dial for the running seconds, positioned unusually between the seven and eight o'clock markers due to the specific gear train architecture of the underlying micro-rotor caliber. This sub-dial is deeply recessed into the main dial plane and finished with a precise concentric guilloche pattern, creating a textured micro-surface that catches light differently than the surrounding glossy lacquer. The time display is executed via polished leaf hands on certain configurations, while others utilize faceted and polished dauphine hands, both of which feature a central crease that reflects light on one axis while throwing a shadow on the opposing side to maximize legibility under varying lighting conditions. A traditional railroad-style minute track surrounds the outer perimeter of both dials, providing accurate single-minute demarcations that ground the highly decorated presentation in standard timekeeping utility.

The Movement

Powering the MR Moissanite is the Hangzhou CAL5000a, an automatic mechanical caliber distinguished by its implementation of a micro-rotor winding system. Unlike standard automatic movements that utilize a large, centrally mounted oscillating weight that covers the entire movement architecture, a micro-rotor is miniaturized and integrated directly into the main baseplate alongside the gear train and escapement. This specific horizontal integration is the primary technical factor that allows the central case thickness to remain at 8mm, as the winding mechanism does not add an additional vertical layer to the mechanical stack. The caliber operates at a frequency that yields a standard 42-hour power reserve when fully wound, ensuring that the mainspring barrel stores sufficient mechanical tension to maintain accurate timekeeping through a standard period of inactivity.

The exhibition case back, secured by external screws, provides an unobstructed view of the mechanical finishing, which has been entirely redesigned for this specific final edition of the MR series. The solid, golden-toned micro-rotor is deeply engraved with the manufacturer's nomenclature and features a heavy brushed finish that contrasts sharply with the dark grey, heavily textured surface treatment applied to the baseplate and surrounding bridges. This frosted, granular application on the primary structural components absorbs light and serves to highlight the polished heads of the securing screws and the bright magenta synthetic ruby bearings that reduce friction within the gear train pivots. While the finishing techniques are machine-applied rather than executed via traditional hand-beveling, the visual architecture successfully mimics the high-contrast aesthetic of classical high-horology calibers, providing substantial visual depth within the constrained horizontal plane.

The Strap

The MR Moissanite is available with two distinct attachment systems, beginning with an Italian calf leather strap that features a pronounced, pebbled grain structure visible across its surface. The leather option provides a high degree of immediate flexibility and features a significant taper from the 20mm lug width down to the buckle, reducing the overall footprint on the wrist and emphasizing the circular geometry of the case. Alternatively, the manufacturer provides a stainless steel beads of rice straight bracelet, a complex articulated structure consisting of multiple small, highly polished central links flanked by elongated, brushed outer links. This specific bracelet architecture offers superior mechanical drape over the wrist contour due to the sheer volume of independent pivot points, while the straight end-links leave a deliberate gap between the case and the bracelet, reinforcing the vintage aesthetic parameters of the design.

Pricing and Availability

The commercial distribution of the MR Moissanite Final Edition operates under a strictly controlled production volume, limited to exactly 200 serialized units worldwide. This production allocation is divided symmetrically between the two available configurations, resulting in 100 units assigned to the Classic dial layout and 100 units assigned to the Roulette sector dial layout. Both variants are positioned at a retail price of €1,160.00, maintaining the brand's established direct-to-consumer economic model while accounting for the increased material costs associated with the gem-set bezel and upgraded dial furniture. Upon the exhaustion of this specific inventory, the current iteration of the MR collection will officially cease production after a four-year lifecycle, with the manufacturer signaling a future structural update to the underlying platform.

Technical Specifications

Case: 316L Stainless steel, 36mm diameter, 44mm lug-to-lug, 9.9mm thick (8mm without glass), 20mm lug width, high-domed hesalite crystal, 30m (3ATM) water resistance, individually numbered case (1-100 per variant), moissanite gem-set bezel.

Movement: Automatic Hangzhou CAL5000a Micro-rotor, 42-hour power reserve.

Dial: Glossy black finish (Classic) or Glossy with brushed sectors (Roulette), guilloche seconds sub-dial, polished leaf hands or faceted and polished dauphine hands.

Strap: Italian calf leather strap or stainless steel Beads of rice straight bracelet.

Price: €1,160.00

Reference Number: MR Moissanite Classic / MR Moissanite Roulette

Notes: Final edition of the MR series, limited strictly to 200 units total (100 Classic, 100 Roulette).