AWAKE has introduced a new collection, the "Son Mài – Frosted Leaf," which endeavors to combine the ancient Vietnamese art of lacquerware with contemporary watchmaking. This series continues AWAKE's exploration of ancestral craftsmanship, this time focusing on the skills of lacquer masters in Hanoi, Vietnam. The collaboration aims to produce hand-crafted dials that reflect the beauty of the planet, offered in strictly limited series. The resulting "Son Mài – Frosted Leaf" collection is described as a poetic and sensory expression, drawing inspiration from the hues of the Earth as observed from space.
The collection features three distinct interpretations, each paying homage to different aspects of the planet: blue for the oceans, green for the forests, and brown for the fertile lands. Each dial is designed to be deep, luminous, and textured, conceived as an individual work of art. A novel technique, exclusive to this collection, blends traditional lacquer with silver leaf gilding, allowing Vietnam’s master lacquerers to create a modern watch dial that represents a dialogue between art, nature, and innovation.
Courtesy of Awake
AWAKE, founded in 2019, is an independent watch brand with a stated mission to reveal the world's beauty through the medium of timekeeping devices. This vision has led the brand to engage in initiatives aimed at reviving and reimagining ancestral Métiers d'Art and often overlooked national treasures from various parts of the globe. This pursuit reflects AWAKE’s commitment to excellence, creativity, and innovation, serving as a tribute to enduring craftsmanship and a deeper sense of time. The brand aims to offer pleasure and emotion through a poetic and mindful interpretation of time, contrasting with the rapid pace of modern life.
The foundation of AWAKE's creative philosophy, since its inception, has been the interplay between art and nature. The Earth, when viewed from an orbital perspective, presents a striking array of shapes and colors—blues, greens, and browns—that have frequently served as inspiration for the brand, encouraging wonder and reflection. Through its exploration of Métiers d'Art, particularly the Vietnamese lacquerware tradition of Son Mài,
Awake seeks to translate these complex emotions into tangible form on its watch dials. This artistic endeavor is a shared language with the master lacquerers, who express the planet’s fragile beauty through the FROSTED LEAF collection with sensitivity and expertise.
Nature serves as an indispensable source of inspiration for the lacquerers involved in this project. They view creation as inextricably linked to the natural world, believing it embodies the essence of existence and nourishes all artistic forms. These artisans have consistently drawn from their surroundings, enhancing them with creativity and continually pushing the boundaries of their craft. Following an earlier Son Mài collection launched towards the end of 2024, AWAKE continued its collaboration with these artisans to further elevate the complexity of their dials, enriching them with modern design elements and more contemporary inspirations.
The development of the "FROSTED LEAF" technique required several months of dedicated work, demanding an exceptional level of dexterity and concentration from the master lacquerers. They worked to invent new methods of combining Son lacquer, silver leaf, and natural pigments, perfecting a new, exclusive technique that is both intricate and demanding. This process enabled the creation of organic, deep, and mysterious dials characterized by icy, frosted reflections. Recognizing that color mastery is essential for lacquerers, AWAKE first invited them to immerse themselves in satellite imagery of Earth. Subsequently, the artisans were given the freedom to make aesthetic and technical choices regarding colors, shapes, and shades to create three distinct dials with organic textures and harmonious, soothing hues designed to evoke nature.
Courtesy of Awake
The "FROSTED LEAF" technique is a multi-stage process. It begins with sap from the Rhus Verniciflua tree, found in northern Vietnam, which produces an exceptionally brilliant natural lacquer that forms the base of each dial. Master lacquerers first apply black pigments, followed by a layer of pure silver leaf, which is then hand-sanded to reveal initial textures. A veil of dark pigments is applied next, before the crucial step of the "FROSTED LEAF" technique. Unlike traditional methods, a second layer of silver is added and then covered with lighter pigments. This layered construction of materials is subsequently finger-sanded by the most experienced craftsman. Through delicate gestures, the artisan reveals the buried layers, creating effects of depth and light that are unique to each individual piece. Finally, several coats of lacquer are patiently applied, sanded, and polished to achieve a lasting shine. This entire process takes approximately 15 hours per dial, where every gesture is critical, and mistakes are irreversible.
Each of the three dials in the FROSTED LEAF collection evokes the raw beauty of the planet in its own way. The MOKA version pays tribute to the Earth and its profound roots, featuring warm, comforting tones that embody authenticity and grounded strength. Its surface presents a rich, earthy texture, with swirls of deep browns and subtle hints of lighter creams, reminiscent of landscapes seen from above, perhaps arid plains or ancient, weathered rock formations. The light plays across the dial, catching the minute variations in texture, suggesting depth and history.
The BLUE dial is designed to evoke escape and infinity, with enigmatic shades of blue that recall water, sky, and vast open horizons. This variant showcases a dynamic interplay of blues, ranging from deep oceanic tones to lighter, almost ethereal sky blues. The frosted effect gives the impression of looking at a slightly turbulent body of water or a cloud-strewn sky, with the silver leaf beneath catching the light like glints on the surface of the sea. The hand-finishing ensures that each blue dial possesses its own unique pattern of light and shadow.
The GREEN interpretation honors life, vegetal freshness, and balance, with organic textures intended to reconnect the wearer to nurturing nature. The green dials exhibit a spectrum of verdant hues, from deep forest greens to brighter, fresher shades. The texture is complex and varied, suggesting the canopy of a dense forest or the intricate patterns of foliage. The frosted leaf technique lends a soft, almost velvety appearance, while the underlying silver provides a subtle luminosity, as if sunlight is filtering through leaves.
Lilian Thibault, the founder of AWAKE, stated, "The FROSTED collection was born from a desire to reinterpret, in a poetic and artisanal way, the beauty of the Earth as seen from space on our dials, using ancestral techniques. To suggest a reality, rather than trying to copy it." He further commented on the design philosophy, noting, "Observing nature is a way to escape and dream. We wanted the dials in the FROSTED LEAF collection to encourage a kind of visual and sensory letting go, away from the urban hustle and bustle and modern distractions."
Courtesy of Awake
A key feature of the FROSTED LEAF collection is its innovative luminous signature, inspired by the poetic aesthetics of Japanese chiaroscuro – the interplay of light and shadow. Perfecting this refined effect took a full year of research and development. The luminous elements are designed to reveal the beauty of the dials, blending luminosity, legibility, and respect for the material. Instead of overpowering the dial with light, the approach is to elevate it with subtlety. This philosophy is reflected in the construction of the hands and indexes, which are shaped through multiple machining stages. The hands and hour markers consist of a slim yet robust base of Super-LumiNova® BGW9, topped with faceted, polished steel inserts, each finished to a fine glaive point. This design offers a discreet reading of time that does not detract from the richness of the dial. In low light conditions, the glow diffuses softly, casting a poetic halo that reveals the deep reflections of the lacquer and the delicate shimmer of the silver leaf.
Powering the FROSTED LEAF collection is the automatic, unidirectional La Joux-Perret G101 caliber, designed and manufactured by the Swiss manufacturer La Joux-Perret, located in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This movement is recognized for its robustness and performance, offering a 68-hour power reserve. A distinguishing feature is the tungsten rotor, developed exclusively for AWAKE, which showcases an interplay of raised and recessed surfaces, enriched by meticulous finishing techniques that create a striking visual effect. The movement is encircled by a textured “Clous de Paris” ring, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. AWAKE’s signature water-resistance hallmark (a fish symbol) and recycled 316L steel hallmark (an anvil symbol) are subtly engraved within the lugs.
The watches are fitted with straps created by DELUGS, a brand recognized by watch collectors for its pursuit of quality and its exploration of new techniques and materials in horology. DELUGS is also committed to the education and training of the next generation of leather artisans, aligning with AWAKE's emphasis on knowledge transmission. For this collaboration, a 20x16mm light gray Nubuck leather strap was selected. This strap has a soft, luxurious texture and is lined in black rubber for enhanced comfort and flexibility. It features tone-on-tone topstitching, a 316L recycled steel pin buckle, and presto spring bars for easy strap changes. This strap is designed to complement each dial in the collection.
The case of the Son Mài Frosted Leaf watches is crafted from recycled 316L stainless steel. It measures 39 mm in diameter, with a lug-to-lug distance of 45.6 mm and a lug width of 20 mm. The thickness is 11.80 mm including the crystal, and 10.90 mm excluding it. The Métiers d’Art dials are available in the three handcrafted colorways: Green, Blue, and Mocha, each created using the innovative fusion of sanded lacquer ("Son Mài") and pure silver leaf gilding, combined with natural pigments.
The indexes and hands feature Super-LumiNova® BGW9 with AWAKE’s distinctive luminous “cap” signature. The watch offers water resistance up to 5 ATM, equivalent to 50 meters. An anti-reflective sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the case back is a screw-down sapphire crystal type, allowing a view of the movement. The La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement provides a 68-hour power reserve. Decorations include the customized tungsten rotor with alternating hollows and reliefs, featuring brushed, bead-blasted, and polished finishes. A laser-engraved “Clous de Paris” motif ring is marked with the limited edition number, collection name, and “Swiss Made” designation.
Courtesy of Awake
The DELUGS for AWAKE strap is a light grey nubuck leather strap lined with rubber, tapering from 20mm at the lugs to 16mm at the buckle. It features tone-on-tone topstitching and is mounted on a recycled 316L stainless steel pin buckle. Equipped with presto spring bars, it is available in two sizes: M (115 x 70 mm) and L (125 x 75 mm). Each watch comes with a 3-year international warranty.
The three versions of the FROSTED LEAF collection—Mocha, Blue, and Green—are each limited to 50 pieces. This exclusivity underscores the handcrafted nature of the dials, where each one subtly differs from the next due to the artisanal process. The company states that this individuality connects the owner to the craftsmen and the ancient tradition they uphold. This approach seeks to imbue each watch with an "extra soul."
AWAKE emphasizes its commitment to offering a unique value and emotional proposition in its price segment. This includes the unique, hand-designed dials, the blending of ancestral techniques with contemporary creativity and innovation, the exclusive luminous signature, the use of renowned Swiss calibers, recycled stainless steel for cases and buckles, and custom-made DELUGS bracelets. This combination aims to deliver aesthetic appeal, watchmaking quality, craftsmanship, and pure emotion.
The visual presentation of the watches highlights their distinct character. The blue version, for instance, might appear as a roiling ocean surface from a great height, with the light catching crests and shadows in the troughs. The polished hands and markers stand out clearly against this textured backdrop, their luminous tips promising legibility in darkness. The interplay of the frosted lacquer and the underlying silver leaf creates a sense of movement and depth that a flat dial could never achieve.
Similarly, the green model suggests a vibrant, living landscape. One can almost imagine the texture of moss or the dense foliage of a rainforest canopy. The variations in green tones, from deep emerald to lighter mossy shades, combined with the subtle shimmer of the silver, give the dial an organic, almost breathing quality. The way the light interacts with the surface means the watch's appearance can shift subtly with the wearer's movement and changing ambient light.
The mocha variant offers a warmer, earthier aesthetic. Its browns and creams could represent desert dunes, fertile soil, or ancient rock formations. The texture is just as pronounced as in the other versions, inviting close inspection. The frosted effect softens the overall look while simultaneously highlighting the intricate details created by the lacquer and silver leaf application. It’s a dial that speaks of solidity and connection to the land.
The case design itself is relatively restrained, with clean lines that allow the dial to be the primary focus. The 39mm diameter is a contemporary size that should suit a wide range of wrists, and the lug-to-lug dimension of 45.6mm suggests it will wear comfortably. The recycled stainless steel case is a nod to sustainability, a theme that resonates with the nature-inspired dials. The sapphire crystal on both the front and back provides durability and a clear view of the dial and movement, respectively.
The La Joux-Perret G101 movement, visible through the exhibition case back, is a significant component. Its 68-hour power reserve is a practical advantage, meaning the watch can be taken off for a couple of days without needing to be rewound. The custom tungsten rotor, with its contrasting finishes and the "Clous de Paris" textured ring surrounding the movement, adds a layer of visual interest to the mechanics, ensuring that the view from the back is as considered as the front.
Courtesy of Awake
The collaboration with DELUGS for the strap further enhances the overall package. Nubuck leather offers a soft, almost suede-like feel, and the rubber lining is a practical choice for comfort and durability, especially in warmer weather or if the watch is worn daily. The light grey color is neutral enough to complement all three dial variations effectively. The presto spring bars are a user-friendly feature, allowing for easy strap changes without tools, catering to enthusiasts who enjoy customizing their timepieces.
The pricing for the AWAKE Son Mài Frosted Leaf collection is set at €2,150, excluding tax. Given the handcrafted nature of the dials, the limited production of 50 pieces per color, the Swiss-made La Joux-Perret movement, and the collaboration with DELUGS, AWAKE positions these watches as offering a distinct blend of artistry and horological substance. Availability will be through AWAKE's official channels, and prospective buyers should anticipate that the limited nature of these editions will likely lead to quick sell-outs.
Case: Recycled 316L stainless steel; 39 mm diameter; 45.6 mm lug-to-lug; 20 mm lug width; 11.80 mm thickness (including crystal), 10.90 mm (excluding crystal); Anti-reflective sapphire crystal front; Screw-down sapphire crystal case back; Water resistance 5 ATM (50 meters).
Movement: Automatic La Joux-Perret G101; Unidirectional winding; 68-hour power reserve; Customized tungsten rotor with brushed, bead-blasted, and polished finishes; Laser-engraved “Clous de Paris” motif ring.
Dial: Métiers d’Art in Green, Blue, or Mocha; Handcrafted with sanded lacquer ("Son Mài"), pure silver leaf gilding, natural pigments; Indexes and hands with Super-LumiNova® BGW9 and AWAKE’s luminous “cap” signature.
Strap: DELUGS for AWAKE light grey nubuck leather lined with rubber; 20–16 mm width; Tone-on-tone topstitching; Recycled 316L stainless steel pin buckle; Presto spring bars; Available in sizes M (115 x 70 mm) and L (125 x 75 mm).
Price: €2,150 (excluding tax).
Reference Number: Son Mài – Frosted Leaf – Green; Son Mài – Frosted Leaf – Blue; Son Mài – Frosted Leaf – Moka.
Notes: Limited edition of 50 pieces per color; Each dial is handcrafted using an exclusive "FROSTED LEAF" technique combining Vietnamese Son Mài lacquer and silver leaf, requiring 15 hours of work per dial; Features an innovative luminous signature inspired by Japanese chiaroscuro.