Arnold & Son has introduced a new piece to its astronomical collection, the Perpetual Moon 38 White Gold Aventurine. This watch channels the brand's historical connection to celestial navigation into a format designed for a specific clientele, blending high-end watchmaking with the craft of gem-setting. Limited to just 18 examples, the timepiece presents a distinct vision of the moon phase complication, rooted in both precision mechanics and decorative artistry. The watch is a statement of the brand's direction, focusing on creating specialized, small-batch releases that showcase its technical capabilities within a highly decorated exterior.
The history of Arnold & Son is fundamentally linked to John Arnold, an English watchmaker of the 18th century whose work was critical to solving the problem of determining longitude at sea. His marine chronometers provided the accuracy and reliability required for long-distance naval navigation. This legacy of precision and astronomical observation forms the conceptual backbone of the modern brand. While the company is now based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, its products frequently pay homage to its British roots and the pioneering spirit of its namesake, particularly through complications related to astronomy and chronometry.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
This historical context is directly referenced in the Perpetual Moon 38. The inclusion of specific constellations on the dial is not merely a decorative choice but a nod to the practical application of astronomy in navigation. John Arnold’s work was for sailors and explorers who relied on the stars to chart their course. By incorporating these elements, the watch serves as a modern interpretation of that historical connection, translating the tools of 18th-century mariners into the features of a 21st-century luxury timepiece. It’s a way of keeping the founding narrative alive within the mechanical heart and aesthetic face of the watch.
The case of the Perpetual Moon 38 is crafted from 18K white gold, providing a bright, cool-toned frame for the deep blue dial. Measuring 38 mm in diameter and 10.44 mm in thickness, its dimensions are contemporary and intended to provide a substantial yet wearable presence. The surfaces of the case are polished, designed to catch and reflect light, complementing the brilliance of the diamonds set into its structure. This is not a subtle case; it is designed to be a significant part of the watch's overall visual impact, acting as a brilliant border to the celestial scene within.
An integral part of the watch's character comes from the extensive gem-setting. A total of 80 brilliant-cut diamonds are set into the bezel and lugs, creating a continuous circle of light around the dial. A further 22 brilliant-cut diamonds are found on the 18K white gold pin buckle. The total diamond weight is approximately 2.66 carats, with a specified quality of D-E-F color and IF-VVS clarity. This level of detail ensures that the watch's exterior is as meticulously crafted as its interior, positioning it firmly in the category of a high-jewelry timepiece. The diamonds are not an afterthought but a core component of the design.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
The dial is the centerpiece of the Perpetual Moon 38, made from a disc of blue aventurine glass. This material is known for its deep, translucent quality, peppered with fine metallic inclusions that glitter as they catch the light. The effect is a convincing representation of a vast, star-filled night sky, providing a dynamic backdrop that changes its appearance depending on the viewing angle and lighting conditions. This choice of material immediately establishes the astronomical theme and provides a rich, textured canvas for the other elements.
Occupying a large portion of the upper dial, from the 10 o'clock to the 2 o'clock position, is the oversized moon phase aperture. This generous opening reveals a broad disc that tracks the lunar cycle. The sky of the moon phase display is also made of aventurine glass, ensuring a seamless visual continuation from the main dial. The moon itself is rendered from mother-of-pearl, a material whose natural luster provides a soft glow. The details of the lunar surface are not printed but meticulously hand-painted, adding shadows and texture to create a realistic depiction of our celestial neighbor.
Furthering the navigational theme, the dial features hand-painted depictions of two prominent constellations: Ursa Major and Cassiopeia. Historically, these star patterns were essential for sailors in the Northern Hemisphere to locate Polaris, the Pole Star, which was a fixed point used to determine direction and calculate latitude. The inclusion of these constellations is a direct tribute to the marine chronometers of John Arnold. This detail connects the poetic imagery of the night sky with the practical, scientific history of the brand.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
The watch exhibits a dual character, transitioning its appearance from day to night. In daylight, it is a display of shimmering blue aventurine and sparkling diamonds, framed by polished white gold. At night, its personality shifts. The moon, the constellations, and other key elements are coated with Super-LumiNova, which emits a cool blue-green glow in low light. This luminescent display shifts the focus from the brilliance of the diamonds to the ethereal light of the celestial bodies, allowing the astronomical complication to become the primary visual element.
Adding to the dial's preciousness are the hour markers. Instead of printed or standard applied indices, the hours are marked by 12 marquise-cut diamonds. This particular cut, with its elongated shape and pointed ends, complements the sharp, faceted hands and adds another layer of brilliance to the dial. The use of diamonds as functional markers integrates the jewelry aspect of the watch directly into its time-telling function, ensuring every component contributes to the overall luxurious feel.
Powering the Perpetual Moon 38 is the calibre A&S1612, a mechanical movement with manual winding. Significantly, this is not a smaller version of an existing men's movement. It was developed specifically for the 38 mm case, making it the smallest calibre in the Arnold & Son collection. Measuring 29.4 mm in diameter and 4.95 mm thick, its proportions are optimized for the case, allowing the watch to maintain its relatively slender profile. This commitment to creating a bespoke movement demonstrates a serious approach to women's watchmaking.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
The A&S1612 continues the brand’s tradition of engineering movements with substantial power reserves. When fully wound, it provides 90 hours of autonomy, meaning it can run for nearly four days without needing to be wound again. This is a practical feature that enhances the user experience, reducing the frequency of interaction required to keep the watch running. The movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz, or 21,600 vibrations per hour, a standard rate for many high-end calibres that balances accuracy with longevity.
The moon phase complication is the mechanical star of the show. True to the "Perpetual Moon" name, the mechanism is engineered for exceptional accuracy. The display of the lunar cycle is designed to remain precise for 122 years before it deviates by a single day from the actual astronomical cycle. This level of precision requires complex gearing and places the watch in the category of a true astronomical complication, honoring the brand’s heritage of scientific accuracy.
Flipping the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal case back, offering an unobstructed view of the A&S1612 movement. The finishing is executed to a high standard, intended to be appreciated visually. The main plate is rhodium-plated and features circular graining, while the bridges are decorated with radiating Côtes de Genève stripes and have polished, chamfered edges. The wheels have a golden finish with circular graining, and the screws are thermally blued with polished heads, providing a touch of color and demonstrating meticulous attention to detail.
The strap chosen for this model is a midnight-blue alligator leather with a satin finish, hand-stitched to match the color of the aventurine dial. This material provides a soft texture that contrasts with the hard, reflective surfaces of the case and diamonds. The strap is secured with an 18K white gold pin buckle, which, as mentioned, is set with 22 brilliant-cut diamonds. This ensures that the luxurious detailing extends all the way around the wrist, creating a cohesive and complete design.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
The narrative of the watch is deeply intertwined with the sky. From the starry aventurine dial to the luminescent moon and constellations, every element works together to create a miniature celestial scene on the wrist. The connection to John Arnold and the history of marine navigation provides a layer of substance that elevates the design beyond simple decoration, giving it a story rooted in scientific exploration.
Limited to only 18 pieces worldwide, the Perpetual Moon 38 White Gold Aventurine is, by its nature, an exclusive offering. This scarcity is a key part of its appeal for collectors. The reference number for this model is 1GLMW.A01A.C0226W. Given its materials, complication, and limited production, the pricing reflects its position in the market. The watch is priced at $61,200, exclusive of VAT, and is available through authorized Arnold & Son retailers.
Case: 18K white gold, 38 mm diameter, 10.44 mm thickness. Set with 80 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel and lugs. Domed sapphire crystal and sapphire case back with anti-reflective coating. Water resistance of 30 metres (100 feet).
Movement: Calibre A&S1612 with manual winding. 90-hour power reserve, 24 jewels, 3 Hz (21,600 vph) frequency. Functions include hours, minutes, and an astronomical moon phase.
Dial: Blue aventurine glass with 12 marquise-cut diamond hour-markers. Moon phase features a mother-of-pearl moon and hand-painted constellations (Ursa Major, Cassiopeia) with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Midnight-blue satin alligator leather, hand-stitched. 18K white gold pin buckle set with 22 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Price: $61,200 USD (excl. VAT).
Reference Number: 1GLMW.A01A.C0226W
Notes: Limited to 18 pieces. The astronomical moon phase complication is accurate to one day every 122 years. The total diamond weight is approximately 2.66 carats.