In the sphere of collaborative watchmaking, partnerships often serve to commemorate milestones, blending the distinct identities of a manufacturer and a celebrated retailer. Arnold & Son has joined forces with Ahmed Seddiqi, a prominent name in Middle Eastern horology, to mark the retailer's 75th anniversary. This celebration takes the form of a highly exclusive timepiece, the Nebula 40 Steel Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition, a watch that leverages a unique mechanical architecture to honor a long-standing relationship. Limited to a mere 10 pieces, this edition is a testament to shared values of passion, craftsmanship, and a deep respect for the watchmaker's art.
The foundation for this special edition is the Nebula 40, a model renowned within the Arnold & Son catalog for its radical approach to skeletonization. Unlike many open-worked watches that begin with a solid calibre and remove material, the Nebula was conceived from its inception to be a symmetrical, transparent, and architecturally coherent mechanical sculpture. Its design is entirely dictated by the placement of its components, resulting in a visual harmony that is both technically impressive and aesthetically captivating. For an anniversary piece, it provides a perfect canvas, allowing for specific color and material treatments that highlight the celebratory nature of the collaboration.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
This partnership pays tribute to a significant legacy in the world of watch retail. Founded in Dubai in 1950, Ahmed Seddiqi has evolved from a single shop to a powerhouse in the luxury watch market of the Middle East. The family-run business has been instrumental in cultivating a sophisticated watch culture in the region, acting as both a purveyor of fine timepieces and an ambassador for the brands it represents. Over 75 years, the Seddiqi name has become synonymous with expertise and a curated selection of the world's most important watchmakers, making this anniversary a noteworthy event in the industry.
Arnold & Son itself is a brand built on a formidable historical foundation. The name belongs to John Arnold, one of history's most important watchmakers, whose work in the 18th century on marine chronometers was pivotal for enabling accurate navigation at sea. The modern manufacture, based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, channels this spirit of innovation and precision. While the brand doesn't produce marine chronometers today, its focus on developing unique movements with inventive complications and distinctive layouts is a direct continuation of John Arnold's legacy of pushing the boundaries of mechanical possibility.
The core philosophy of the Nebula collection is rooted in its name, which evokes images of interstellar gas clouds where stars are born. The movement's architecture is designed to mimic a star, with its key components radiating outwards from the center. This is achieved through the use of seven distinct bridges, which are fixed to the mainplate and stretch across the calibre, holding the gear train, barrels, and regulating organ in a perfectly balanced arrangement. The result is a movement that feels both explosive and perfectly ordered, a universe of gears and springs contained within a 40 mm case.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
Visually, the Nebula 40 Steel for Ahmed Seddiqi presents an immediate impression of mechanical transparency and rigorous symmetry. The observer's eye is not met with a traditional dial, but rather a three-dimensional landscape of gears, bridges, and barrels. The entire gear train is visible, allowing one to trace the flow of energy from the mainsprings to the escapement. This open design is not for novelty's sake; it is a deliberate expression of the watch's function, celebrating the mechanics themselves as the primary aesthetic feature.
Dominating the upper half of the watch are two large, series-coupled mainspring barrels, positioned at approximately the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock locations. These barrels are not hidden but are showcased as integral design elements. Their covers are finished with a gold treatment and a fine sunray brushing that catches the light, contrasting beautifully with the surrounding components. Their parallel placement is a key contributor to the watch's north-south symmetry and is functionally critical to its impressive power reserve.
Creating a diagonal balance with the twin barrels are the watch's regulating organs. The small seconds display is located near the 7 o'clock position, directly integrated into the architecture. Opposite it, near 5 o'clock, beats the balance wheel, the vibrant heart of the movement. This thoughtful placement ensures that the lower half of the watch is just as visually engaging and balanced as the upper half, preventing the design from feeling top-heavy and reinforcing the star-like layout of the bridges.
The color scheme chosen for this anniversary edition is a carefully curated blend of cool and warm tones. The case is crafted from stainless steel, and the seven bridges that span the movement are palladium-plated, giving them a bright, silvery-white finish. This creates an industrial yet refined framework for the entire watch, a metallic structure that is both functional and decorative. The surfaces of the bridges feature a satin finish, while their edges are meticulously polished, creating a dynamic play of light across the movement.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
This cool palette is set against the deliberate warmth of key components. The mainplate, visible through the skeletonized structure, has been given a gold finish, as have the barrel covers. This bi-color treatment within the movement itself provides depth and contrast, making the various layers and components easier to distinguish. It adds a richness to the overall appearance that separates it from a purely monochromatic, industrial aesthetic.
The most distinctive element of this limited edition is the deep, rich color of the chapter ring. The flange that encircles the movement is rendered in a garnet hue, a striking shade of red that immediately sets this model apart. This color choice provides a bold frame for the mechanical spectacle within and is a direct reference to the collaboration. It adds a celebratory and noble touch to the watch's design.
Further personalizing the piece for its partner, the garnet flange features applied hour markers in the form of gold-finished Eastern Arabic numerals. This is a direct and fitting tribute to Ahmed Seddiqi, acknowledging the company's roots and its prominent position in the Middle Eastern market. This detail seamlessly integrates a cultural element into the Swiss mechanical design, making the watch a true fusion of two worlds.
The stainless steel case measures a contemporary yet comfortable 40 mm in diameter, with a thickness of just 9.10 mm. This relatively slim profile is noteworthy for a watch with such a three-dimensional movement architecture, ensuring it wears well on a variety of wrist sizes. The case design is characterized by a rounded flank and deep, sculpted lugs, features intended to draw focus inward towards the main attraction: the calibre. A domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides provides a crystal-clear, uninterrupted view of the mechanical artistry.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
At the heart of the watch is the Calibre A&S5201, a hand-wound movement developed and produced in-house by Arnold & Son. Its technical specifications are as impressive as its appearance. The two large barrels work in series to deliver a substantial 90-hour power reserve. This extended autonomy is rare in skeletonized watches, where the space required for large mainsprings is often sacrificed for aesthetic openness. Arnold & Son's ability to integrate this feature without compromising the symmetrical design is a mark of its engineering prowess. The movement operates at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vph) and contains 24 jewels.
The finishing of the Calibre A&S5201 is executed to a high standard, with every component receiving meticulous attention. Beyond the satin-finished and polished bridges, the wheels are circular-grained and chamfered, while the screws feature chamfered edges and mirror-polished heads. These are the subtle but significant details that define fine watchmaking, intended as much for the appreciation of the owner as for the smooth functioning of the watch.
Turning the watch over reveals a view almost as compelling as the front. An exhibition case back, fitted with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, displays the rear of the Calibre A&S5201. The gold-finished mainplate is decorated with a "Rayons de la Gloire" guilloché pattern, a signature Arnold & Son finish that radiates outward. Two intersecting, ogival-shaped bridges support the gear train, continuing the theme of structural symmetry and refined finishing visible from the front.
To enhance its versatility, the Nebula 40 Steel Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition is delivered with three distinct options for wearing. It comes fitted with a robust and sporty three-link stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. Additionally, the owner receives two straps: one made from garnet calfskin leather and another from a garnet-colored technical fabric, both secured with a traditional pin buckle. This trio allows the watch's character to be transformed, from a fully integrated steel sports piece to a more classic or casual configuration.
Courtesy of Arnold & Son
This special edition successfully encapsulates the spirit of the collaboration it honors. It is a meeting of Swiss mechanical ingenuity, represented by Arnold & Son's bold and symmetrical movement architecture, and the legacy of a visionary retail partner, celebrated through the thoughtful use of color and the inclusion of Eastern Arabic numerals. The watch is a physical embodiment of a relationship built on a mutual dedication to promoting the highest levels of horological craft.
As a highly exclusive offering, the Arnold & Son Nebula 40 Steel Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Edition is strictly limited to 10 pieces. It stands as a rare and collectible timepiece for connoisseurs who appreciate both the technical achievements of the watchmaker and the cultural significance of the retailer. The watch is priced at AED 101,000. This piece is a fitting tribute to 75 years of excellence, sealing an enduring bond between a Swiss Manufacture and its pioneering partner in Dubai.
Case: Stainless steel, 40 mm diameter, 9.10 mm thickness. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides. Sapphire crystal case back. Water resistance 3 bar (30 metres/100 feet).
Movement: Calibre A&S5201, hand-wound mechanical. Functions include hours, minutes, and small seconds. 90-hour power reserve, 24 jewels, 3 Hz (21,600 vph) frequency.
Dial: Skeletonized with a garnet flange featuring gold-finish Eastern Arabic numerals.
Strap: Includes three options: a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp, a garnet calfskin strap with a pin buckle, and a garnet technical fabric strap with a pin buckle.
Price: AED 101,000
Reference Number: 1NEGS.R01A.S1357D
Notes: Limited edition of 10 pieces celebrating the 75th anniversary of Dubai-based retailer Ahmed Seddiqi. The movement is architecturally built from the ground up to be symmetrical and skeletonized.