Armin Strom occupies a distinct space in the landscape of modern independent watchmaking, characterized by a persistent refusal to conceal the mechanical intellect of a timepiece behind a solid dial. Based in the watchmaking hub of Biel/Bienne, the manufacture has spent decades refining a design language that prioritizes mechanical transparency, inviting the wearer to witness the kinetic energy transfer that powers their daily lives. With the introduction of the Tribute Aurum, Reference ST25-TRI.2E, the brand revisits the architectural successes of the Tribute 1 while pivoting toward a far more ornamental and textural direction. This specific release represents a significant evolution in their aesthetic strategy, moving away from purely industrial minimalism to embrace centuries-old artisanal decoration techniques, specifically the rare and labor-intensive art of tremblage. The watch is not merely a vessel for timekeeping but a deliberate exercise in contrasting finishes, pitting the rough, granular surface of hand-engraving against the mirror-like perfection of modern haute horlogerie polishing.
The immediate visual impact of the Tribute Aurum is defined by its dial-side mainplate, which has been treated with a gold coating and finished using tremblage. This technique is historically significant and exceptionally difficult to master, requiring the artisan to use a burin to create thousands of microscopic indentations on the metal surface. The result is a texture that is neither matte nor polished but possesses a shimmering, organic quality that catches the light in unpredictable ways. On this timepiece, the golden granular surface serves as a theatrical backdrop for the mechanical elements, creating a stark and compelling contrast with the rhodium-plated, high-polished components of the movement. The choice of a gold coating for the tremblage plate warms the entire visual presentation, softening the often clinical appearance of stainless steel and bridging the gap between technical precision and decorative art. It creates a terrain upon which the rest of the watch’s features operate, offering a visual depth that a standard flat-finished mainplate simply cannot achieve.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
Rising above this textured golden field is the off-center dial, a hallmark configuration for Armin Strom that speaks to the brand’s obsession with unconventional displays. The dial is rendered in a grey fumé finish, a gradient effect that transitions from a lighter, smoky center to a darker, more saturated perimeter. This subtle shift in tone adds a sense of curvature and volume to the sub-dial, preventing it from appearing flat against the complex background. The dial is secured with a layered construction that enhances the three-dimensional nature of the face, floating above the tremblage plate. Indicating the time are hands that have been gold-coated to match the underlying texture, creating a cohesive color story that unifies the disparate elements of the display. These hands are meticulously polished and filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring that the artistic ambition of the watch does not compromise its fundamental utility in low-light conditions.
The case encasing this mechanical display is crafted from stainless steel, measuring a versatile 38 millimeters in diameter. This sizing is a deliberate nod to the preferences of contemporary collectors who increasingly favor more restrained, classic proportions over the oversized cases that dominated previous decades. With a height of only 9.38 millimeters, the case profile is slender enough to slide easily under a dress cuff, yet the architectural complexity of the dial gives it a wrist presence that belies its compact dimensions. The lug-to-lug measurement of 18 millimeters ensures a compact footprint, allowing the watch to sit securely on a wide variety of wrist sizes. The distinct positioning of the crown at the 2 o’clock mark is another signature trait derived from the Tribute 1 lineage, a design choice that not only differentiates the silhouette from the ubiquitous 3 o’clock crown but also enhances wearer comfort by preventing the crown from digging into the back of the hand during daily wear.
Driving the Tribute Aurum is the manufacture Caliber AMW21, a hand-wound movement that serves as a testament to Armin Strom’s vertical integration and engineering prowess. Developed and manufactured entirely in-house, this movement is built around a motor barrel design, a highly efficient system where the barrel arbor turns to drive the gear train rather than the barrel drum itself. This technical nuance is significant because it reduces friction and wear while optimizing the stability of the power delivery. The mainspring housed within this barrel provides a substantial 100-hour power reserve, allowing the watch to continue running autonomously for over four days. This extended autonomy is particularly practical for a manual-wind timepiece, reducing the frequency with which the owner must interact with the crown while ensuring consistent torque delivery over an extended period. The barrel itself is skeletonized and visible from the dial side, its visible coils serving as a gauge of the remaining power and adding another layer of mechanical intrigue to the face of the watch.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The escapement operates at a frequency of 3.5 Hertz, or 25,200 vibrations per hour, a beat rate that strikes a balance between precision and component longevity. The variable inertia balance wheel is paired with a flat hairspring, a regulating system designed to maintain isochronism across various positions and states of wind. Holding these critical components in place is the brand's signature "System 78" finger bridge. On the dial side, the bevelled steel finger bridge is finished with black polishing, also known as specular polishing, which is the highest level of metal finishing achievable. When viewed at certain angles, the steel appears deep black due to its perfect flatness and lack of light scattering, contrasting sharply with the glistening gold tremblage below it. This interplay of black polish, gold graining, and grey fumé creates a sophisticated palette that feels both industrial and precious simultaneously.
Turning the watch over reveals the exhibition case back, which offers a view of the movement’s more traditional finishing techniques. While the front is defined by the avant-garde tremblage, the reverse side honors the classic codes of Swiss watchmaking. The three-quarter bridge is decorated with broad Geneva stripes (Côtes de Genève) that catch the light in rhythmic waves, while the base plate features circular graining (perlage). However, the true measure of the finishing quality is found in the anglage. The bridges feature generous 60-degree hand-polished bevels, a labor-intensive detail that highlights the contours of the metal components. The sharp internal angles and smooth, flowing curves of the bevels demonstrate the skilled hand of the finisher, as such distinct and reflective edges cannot be achieved by automated machines. A three-dimensional escapement wheel bridge with a polished sink adds a final sculptural flourish to the movement side, reinforcing the brand's reputation for obsessive attention to detail.
The narrative of the Tribute Aurum is also one of exclusivity and careful production management. Armin Strom adheres to a philosophy of "assemble twice," a rigorous quality control measure where the movement is assembled, adjusted, and tested, then completely disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled with the final lubrication and regulation. This process ensures that every component interacts perfectly and that the long-term reliability of the caliber is guaranteed. Such a method is time-consuming and costly, restricting the total output of the manufacture, but it is essential for maintaining the high standards of haute horlogerie. This dedication to process is reflective of the leadership of Master Watchmaker Claude Greisler and Serge Michel, who have revitalized the brand by merging the legacy of hand-skeletonization with modern engineering principles, coined by the brand as the "Science of Movement."
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The strap paired with this limited edition is crafted from Epsom leather in a taupe shade, stitched with matching taupe thread. The choice of Epsom leather is practical as well as aesthetic; its embossed grain is resistant to scratches and maintains its structure well over time, ensuring the watch remains secure on the wrist. The taupe color is an inspired choice, picking up the warm tones of the gold coating and the cool tones of the steel case and grey dial, tying the entire package together in a neutral yet sophisticated manner. It is secured with a stainless steel pin buckle, a traditional choice that minimizes bulk and maintains the watch’s classic profile. The cohesive design extends even to these peripheral elements, ensuring that no part of the watch feels like an afterthought.
The aesthetic philosophy behind the Tribute Aurum is rooted in the concept of "trembling expression," a poetic reference to the tremblage technique. By choosing to expose the movement mechanics on the dial side, Armin Strom transforms the internal workings of the watch into the primary decorative element. The skeletonized motor barrel allows the user to see the tightening of the mainspring during winding, a tactile and visual connection to the energy being stored within. The visible gear train and balance wheel provide a constant reminder of the precise engineering required to measure time. This is not a watch that hides its function; rather, it celebrates the very nature of mechanical complexity, framing it within a border of artisanal gold texture.
The technical specifications regarding the dimensions further highlight the thoughtful engineering behind the piece. The movement itself measures 33.5 millimeters in diameter and 4.2 millimeters in height, filling the case efficiently and leaving little wasted space. This density of mechanics contributes to the feeling of quality; the watch feels substantial and packed with components rather than hollow. With 137 individual components and 21 jewels, the Caliber AMW21 is a relatively complex manual-wind engine, yet it remains robust enough for daily wear. The use of a variable inertia balance wheel, which is adjusted via weights on the rim of the wheel rather than by manipulating the hairspring, allows for a more stable and precise rate adjustment, a feature typically found in high-end chronometry.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The rarity of the Tribute Aurum cannot be overstated. With a production run limited to just 10 pieces, this edition is destined for a very small circle of collectors who appreciate the intersection of independent watchmaking and traditional metiers d'art. The limitation is not artificial but rather a consequence of the time-intensive nature of the tremblage finishing and the dual-assembly process. Each mainplate requires hours of manual engraving to achieve the consistent yet irregular texture that defines the tremblage look. This human element ensures that no two pieces are exactly alike, as the hand of the artisan will inevitably vary slightly in pressure and rhythm, giving each of the 10 watches its own unique character.
In the broader context of Armin Strom’s history, the Tribute Aurum serves as a bridge between the brand’s past and its future. Founded in 1967 by the legend of skeletonization, Armin Strom, the company built its reputation on the art of removing metal to reveal the soul of the watch. The modern era of the brand has focused heavily on resonance and complex innovation, but the Tribute collection brings the focus back to the pure joy of a well-finished, hand-wound three-hand watch. By incorporating the tremblage technique, the brand honors the decorative traditions of the past while applying them to a thoroughly modern caliber architecture. It is a synthesis of the old and the new, a demonstration that modern machining and traditional handcraft can coexist harmoniously within a single timepiece.
The visual experience of the watch changes dramatically depending on the lighting conditions. In bright, direct light, the gold tremblage sparkles intensely, highlighting the individual indentations made by the burin. The polished bevels of the bridges and hands catch the light, creating bright highlights that contrast with the deep shadows of the movement’s recesses. In softer, diffused light, the grey fumé dial takes prominence, its smoky gradient adding a moody, atmospheric quality to the face. The Super-LumiNova on the hands ensures that even in darkness, the essential function of time-telling is preserved, glowing with a luminescence that stands out against the dark backdrop of the dial and movement.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
Wearing the Tribute Aurum is an experience in comfort and understated luxury. The 5 ATM water resistance provides sufficient protection for daily life, safeguarding the movement against accidental splashes or rain, although it is certainly not designed for swimming or diving. The sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment ensures that the view of the exquisite dial remains unobstructed by glare, allowing the wearer to admire the tremblage and mechanics without distraction. Every interaction with the watch, from the smooth winding of the crown to the fastening of the buckle, has been engineered to provide tactile satisfaction, reinforcing the sense of quality that defines the piece.
The Armin Strom Tribute Aurum is priced at $27,000 and is available strictly as a limited edition of 10 pieces. Given the extremely low production number, availability is expected to be scarce, likely reserved for established clients of the brand or those who act with significant speed. This price point reflects the immense amount of hand-finishing involved, particularly the tremblage engraving and the extensive beveling, as well as the proprietary nature of the in-house movement. For the collector seeking a distinct example of independent horology that combines technical competence with rare artisanal decoration, the Tribute Aurum presents a compelling proposition in the current market.
Case: Stainless steel construction measuring 38mm in diameter and 9.38mm in height with a lug-to-lug of 18mm. Equipped with sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment; water resistant to 5 ATM.
Movement: In-house hand-wound Caliber AMW21 with 100-hour power reserve, operating at 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph). Features 137 components, 21 jewels, a motor barrel, variable inertia balance wheel, and a gold coated mainplate finished with tremblage.
Dial: Off-center grey fumé dial with layered construction. Hands are gold coated, polished, and filled with Super-LumiNova.
Strap: Epsom taupe leather strap with taupe stitching secured by a stainless steel pin buckle.
Price: $27,000
Reference Number: ST25-TRI.2E
Notes: Limited edition of 10 pieces. Distinguishing features include the hand-finished gold coated tremblage mainplate and the brand's signature "assemble twice" manufacturing process.