In the landscape of independent watchmaking, certain brands carve out a niche by adhering to a distinct and unwavering philosophy. Armin Strom, based in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, is one such company, built on a foundation of mechanical transparency and in-house manufacturing prowess. The brand's creations often feature open-worked dials that proudly display the intricate workings within, a tradition started by the founder himself. With the Tribute 1 collection, Armin Strom presents a more restrained, classical face, yet one that still carries the brand's unmistakable DNA. The latest addition, the Tribute 1 Green, continues this narrative, introducing a new color palette inspired by the natural world to its refined dress watch platform.
The history of Armin Strom is rooted in the skills of its namesake, a master watchmaker and skeletonizer who founded his business in 1967. For decades, he built a formidable reputation for his hand-skeletonized and engraved timepieces. The modern era of the brand began in 2009 when the company was acquired by Serge Michel and his childhood friend, master watchmaker Claude Greisler. They transformed the small workshop into a full-fledged, vertically integrated manufacture, capable of producing nearly every component of a watch in-house. This commitment to independence is central to the brand's identity, allowing for complete creative and technical control over their products, a concept they refer to as the "Science of Movement."
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The Tribute 1 Green is a direct product of this philosophy, a watch that balances traditional watchmaking aesthetics with contemporary design cues and serious mechanical engineering. It represents a more subtle expression of the brand's capabilities compared to its more overtly technical Resonance models. The Tribute 1 series is characterized by its compact, wearable case dimensions and an asymmetrical dial layout that remains both legible and visually interesting. This model, limited to just 50 pieces, uses the color green to evoke a sense of calm and connection to nature, specifically the deep greens of forests and fields, offering a fresh perspective within the collection.
The primary focus of the watch is its captivating dial. The main time-telling sub-dial is positioned off-center to the left, a layout that immediately sets it apart from conventional dress watches. This dial is rendered in a deep forest green and features a meticulously hand-engraved grain d’orge guilloché pattern. This traditional decorative technique, which translates to "barleycorn," creates a fine, intricate texture that plays with light, adding a significant layer of depth and craftsmanship. The use of printed white Roman numerals provides a sharp, classical contrast against the textured green background, ensuring clear readability while reinforcing the watch's formal character.
Adjacent to the time display, the larger portion of the dial serves as a frosted backdrop, continuing the evergreen color scheme but with a contrasting texture. This frosted finish has a subtle grain that absorbs light differently than the guilloché, creating a rich interplay of surfaces. This thoughtful combination of textures prevents the dial from appearing flat and adds a tactile quality to its visual appeal. The overall composition is clean and balanced, demonstrating that a watch face can be both unconventional and harmonious.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
A signature element of Armin Strom's design language is the exposure of key mechanical components, and the Tribute 1 Green is no exception. Dominating the lower right quadrant of the dial is a large, openworked motor barrel. This component, which stores the watch's energy, is held in place by a prominent finger-style bridge crafted from stainless steel. This bridge is not merely functional; it is a piece of art in its own right. Its surfaces are expertly beveled and mirror-polished by hand, a demanding finishing technique that results in a flawless, black-like surface that reflects light with exceptional brilliance. This single element serves as a powerful reminder of the mechanical soul residing within the otherwise classical exterior.
The case of the Tribute 1 Green is crafted from stainless steel and measures a very wearable 38 mm in diameter, with a height of just 9.38 mm. These dimensions align it perfectly with the proportions of a classic dress watch, allowing it to sit comfortably on the wrist and slip easily under a shirt cuff. The case design is deceptively simple, featuring a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that are all finished by hand. This contrast in finishing helps to accentuate the case's lines and adds a level of refinement that can only be achieved through skilled manual work.
One of the most distinctive features of the case is the placement of the crown at the 2 o'clock position. This unconventional choice is a subtle nod to the watch's unique character and improves wrist comfort by preventing the crown from digging into the back of the hand. The case is fitted with sapphire crystals on both the front and back, each treated with an anti-reflective coating to minimize glare and provide a crystal-clear view of the dial and the movement within. The watch is rated for a water resistance of 5 ATM, or 50 meters, which is more than sufficient for a watch of this style.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
Completing the watch's aesthetic is a matching green strap made from Alcantara, a synthetic material known for its softness, durability, and suede-like feel. This choice of material is a modern touch that complements the watch's color scheme and offers a comfortable alternative to traditional leather. The strap is accented with off-white stitching, providing a subtle visual link to the white Roman numerals on the dial. It is secured with a stainless steel folding clasp, a premium feature that enhances both security and ease of use.
Powering the Tribute 1 Green is the manual-winding Manufacture Caliber AMW21. This movement is a testament to Armin Strom's in-house capabilities, with the brand stating that 97% of its components are produced on-site. The architecture of the movement is designed for both performance and aesthetic appeal. It operates at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz) and is equipped with 21 jewels. The regulating system features a flat hairspring paired with a variable inertia balance wheel, a sophisticated setup typically found in high-end movements that allows for more stable and precise timekeeping adjustments.
One of the most impressive technical specifications of the Caliber AMW21 is its substantial power reserve of 100 hours. This is achieved through the use of a single, large barrel, the same one visible on the dial side. This innovative architecture, which includes a patented equal force barrel design, not only allows for a long running time but also helps to deliver energy more consistently to the escapement, contributing to greater accuracy throughout the duration of the power reserve. Having over four days of autonomy means the owner can set the watch down for an entire weekend and find it still running on Monday morning.
The commitment to high-quality finishing extends to every part of the movement, even those hidden from view. Visible through the sapphire case back, the plate and bridges of the Caliber AMW21 are decorated with traditional techniques executed to the highest standards of haute horlogerie. These decorations include classic Geneva stripes and circular graining, all applied with meticulous care by the skilled artisans within the Armin Strom manufacture. The hand-finishing of the movement components is a clear demonstration of the brand's dedication to traditional craft.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
A testament to the brand's rigorous quality control is the fact that each Tribute 1 Green is assembled twice. After the initial assembly, the watch is tested and regulated. It is then completely disassembled, each component is cleaned, and then it is painstakingly reassembled for a second time before being delivered to the customer. This meticulous and time-consuming process ensures that every piece meets the most stringent standards for both mechanical performance and aesthetic perfection. It is a practice reserved for true high-end watchmaking and speaks volumes about the brand's commitment to its products.
The Tribute 1 Green finds its place as a sophisticated and characterful option in the competitive market of independent luxury watchmaking. It offers a unique proposition that blends the artistry of traditional techniques like guilloché and hand-polishing with a modern and distinctive design language. The asymmetrical dial, 2 o'clock crown, and visible barrel create a strong identity that is unmistakably Armin Strom, while the classic proportions and refined finishing make it suitable for formal occasions.
The use of a vibrant yet tasteful green dial sets this limited edition apart, appealing to collectors who appreciate a touch of color and a connection to organic themes. The choice of an Alcantara strap further enhances its contemporary feel, making it a watch that respects horological tradition without being constrained by it. It is a piece for someone who values mechanical integrity, in-house manufacturing, and a design that stands out with quiet confidence.
The Armin Strom Tribute 1 Green is a compelling example of modern, independent watchmaking. It successfully merges the brand's technical identity with the refined sensibilities of a classic dress watch. The combination of the hand-guilloché dial, the highly finished and visible barrel bridge, and the robust, 100-hour power reserve of the in-house Caliber AMW21 creates a package that is both visually and mechanically impressive.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The watch is a celebration of both nature-inspired aesthetics and the deep, internal beauty of a finely crafted machine. It showcases the brand's ability to execute traditional crafts at a high level while simultaneously pushing a forward-thinking design agenda. The attention to detail is evident in every aspect, from the hand-finished case to the twice-assembled movement.
This dedication to craft and design is reflected in its positioning. The Armin Strom Tribute 1 Green, with the reference number ST25-TRI.21, is offered as a limited edition of only 50 pieces worldwide. This exclusivity ensures that it will remain a rare and special timepiece for those fortunate enough to acquire one. The watch is priced at CHF 22,000, placing it firmly in the category of haute horlogerie and reflecting the significant level of in-house manufacturing, hand-finishing, and technical innovation it contains.
Case: Stainless steel, 38 mm diameter, 9.38 mm height, 18 mm lug width. Sapphire crystal front and case back with anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance 5 ATM. Crown at 2 o'clock.
Movement: Armin Strom Manufacture Caliber AMW21. Manual-winding with a 100-hour power reserve. Frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph), 21 jewels, 135 components. Features a variable inertia balance wheel and patented equal force barrel.
Dial: Green, off-center time display with hand-engraved grain d’orge guilloché pattern and printed white Roman numerals. Frosted subdial. Polished rhodium hands.
Strap: Green Alcantara strap with off-white stitching. Stainless steel folding clasp.
Price: CHF 22’000
Reference Number: ST25-TRI.21
Notes: Limited to 50 pieces. The dial features an openworked motor barrel secured by a hand-beveled and mirror-polished finger bridge. Each watch is assembled twice for quality assurance.