The independent watchmaking landscape is often defined by a departure from convention, a place where mechanical ingenuity and distinct design philosophies can flourish without the constraints of mass production. Within this sphere,
Armin Strom has consistently carved out a niche for itself, championing a vision of mechanical transparency and user-focused innovation. The Biel/Bienne-based manufacture has now expanded its compelling System 78 collection with two new models that inject a vibrant dose of color into one of its most mechanically inventive creations: the Orbit Ice Blue and Orbit Lime Green. These timepieces are not merely new colorways but a reaffirmation of the brand's commitment to creating watches that are as technically profound as they are visually striking.
Based in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Biel/Bienne, Armin Strom operates as a fully integrated manufacture, a status that grants it complete control over the design, development, and production of its timepieces. This independence is not just a business model but the core of its identity. Since its revitalization in 2009 by master watchmaker Claude Greisler and entrepreneur Serge Michel, the brand has built upon the legacy of its founder, Armin Strom, who was a master of skeletonization. The modern iteration of the brand has evolved this art form into what it calls the "Science of Movement," a philosophy centered on exposing the intricate workings of the caliber on the dial side, making the mechanics an integral part of the aesthetic.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The most immediate and arresting feature of these new Orbit models is their respective dials. The choice of Ice Blue and Lime Green is a deliberate move towards a more expressive and contemporary palette. The Lime Green version possesses an electric, energetic character, a sharp and zesty hue that immediately draws the eye. In contrast, the Ice Blue model offers a cooler, more composed personality, its color evoking a sense of calm and technical precision. Both dials are executed with a fumé or gradient effect, where the color is most saturated at the center and darkens to a deep black at the periphery. This treatment adds a remarkable sense of depth, pulling the viewer's gaze inward towards the mechanical heart of the watch.
Visually, the watches present a fascinating dichotomy. The left side is dominated by the off-center dial for the hours and minutes. This subdial, with its applied indices filled with Super-LumiNova®, serves as the traditional point of reference for time-telling. The rhodium-coated hands, also luminescent, are faceted and polished, ensuring legibility against the vibrant backdrop. The right side of the watch face, however, is a theater of micromechanics. Here, the movement is laid bare, with three prominent, hand-finished finger bridges securing key components of the gear train. This openworked architecture is quintessentially Armin Strom, transforming the functional elements of the watch into the primary design features and creating a complex, three-dimensional landscape under the sapphire crystal.
At the very core of the Orbit's identity is its groundbreaking complication, housed within the Manufacture Caliber ASS20. This movement features the world's first-ever on-demand date display that utilizes the bezel. This is not a simple date window or a pointer date that is always active. Instead, it is an interactive feature that puts the wearer in control. The fixed black ceramic bezel is engraved with the numerals 1 through 31, but the corresponding date hand remains parked and inactive in its resting position at 12 o'clock, leaving the dial uncluttered.
The true ingenuity of the complication is revealed through its operation. A pusher, discreetly integrated into the case at the 10 o'clock position, acts as the activator. A single press of this pusher causes the large, central date hand to spring instantly to life, pointing directly to the current date on the bezel. While activated, the complication functions as a traditional pointer date, automatically advancing one position each day at midnight. This allows the wearer to keep the date displayed for as long as they wish. When the date display is no longer needed, a second press of the pusher commands the hand to instantly retract and return to its neutral 12 o'clock position, once again clearing the dial for an unobstructed view of the movement.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The mechanism driving this interactive date function is a testament to high-end watchmaking. Rather than a simple series of levers, the Caliber ASS20 employs a column-wheel mechanism to control the date system. Commonly found in high-quality chronographs, a column wheel ensures that the activation, deactivation, and reset of the complication are crisp, precise, and reliable. This choice of mechanism provides a superior tactile experience for the user, with the pusher delivering a satisfying and fluid action that speaks to the quality of the engineering beneath. It’s a playfully engaging feature, but one with genuine functional value, offering a "declutter on demand" function that is unique in the industry.
Powering this complex machine is another of Armin Strom's signature innovations: the patented Equal Force Barrel. In a standard watch movement, the mainspring delivers a high amount of torque when fully wound and a significantly lower amount as it unwinds, which can negatively affect the watch's timekeeping accuracy. Armin Strom's Equal Force Barrel solves this problem by integrating a stop-work declutching mechanism within the mainspring barrel itself. This system ensures that only the most consistent portion of the mainspring's power is delivered to the regulating organ, resulting in a more stable rate and improved isochronism throughout its power reserve. This sophisticated system provides a robust and reliable 72 hours of autonomy.
The technical specifications of the Caliber ASS20 further underscore its modern design and high-grade construction. It is an automatic winding movement, but instead of a large, view-obscuring central rotor, it utilizes a micro-rotor, which is visible on the dial side. This allows for efficient winding without compromising the openworked aesthetic. The movement operates at a frequency of 3.5 Hz, or 25,200 vibrations per hour, a modern standard that balances longevity and precision. Comprising a total of 273 individual components and running on 30 jewels, the caliber is a complex and finely tuned engine built for performance and visual appeal.
True to the principles of haute horlogerie, every single component of the Orbit models is meticulously finished by hand at the Armin Strom manufacture. This dedication to craft is evident across the exposed movement architecture. Traditional decorative techniques are employed to elevate the technical components into artistic elements. These include anglage, where the sharp edges of bridges and plates are beveled and polished to a brilliant shine; perlage, the application of small, overlapping circular grains on the mainplate; and circular graining on the wheels. This painstaking finishing is applied to every part, whether visible or not, reflecting a deep-seated commitment to quality that permeates the entire timepiece.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The movement is housed in a robust and handsomely sculpted stainless steel case. The case measures 43.4 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm in height, giving it a substantial and modern presence on the wrist. However, a thoughtfully considered lug-to-lug distance of 44.35 mm ensures that it wears more compactly than its diameter might suggest, conforming comfortably to a range of wrist sizes. The case architecture is topped by the fixed, polished black ceramic bezel which provides a durable and high-contrast surface for the date numerals. Both the front and case back are fitted with sapphire crystals featuring an anti-reflective treatment, ensuring a crystal-clear view of the dial and the movement from both sides. The watch is rated for a water resistance of 5 ATM, making it suitable for daily wear.
Completing the watch is a solid stainless steel bracelet that is seamlessly integrated with the case. The design of the bracelet, with its H-shaped links and polished center links, complements the modern, technical aesthetic of the watch head. It fastens securely to the wrist with a double-folding clasp, providing both comfort and peace of mind. The all-steel construction gives the Orbit a sporty and versatile character, capable of transitioning from casual to more formal settings with ease.
The Orbit Ice Blue, with its reference number ST25-OR.21, embodies a cool and sophisticated aesthetic. The specific shade of blue chosen for the fumé dial is crisp and metallic, reminiscent of glacial ice. As it transitions to black at the edges, it creates a visual effect that is both deep and dynamic. This version speaks to a wearer who appreciates subtle complexity and technical design, offering a refined take on the watch's bold mechanics. It is a statement piece that communicates confidence through understatement and precision.
On the other end of the spectrum is the Orbit Lime Green, reference ST25-OR.05. This model is unapologetically bold and expressive. The vibrant lime green is electrifying, creating a powerful contrast against the cool grey of the steel case and the black ceramic bezel. This is a watch for those who are not afraid to embrace color and make a statement. The energetic hue highlights the dynamic nature of the on-demand complication and the intricate mechanics, making the entire timepiece feel more animated and alive.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The Orbit models are part of Armin Strom's System 78 collection. This collection represents the brand's vision for the future of fine watchmaking, acting as a gateway to the world of Armin Strom. The "78" in the name is a nod to the birth years of the company's two co-founders, Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, signifying a collection that is personal and foundational to the modern brand's identity. These watches balance the high-end, in-house craftsmanship expected of the manufacture with a contemporary design language.
The experience of wearing and using the Armin Strom Orbit is fundamentally interactive. The on-demand date complication invites engagement. It transforms a passive function into an active choice. The owner decides when the date is relevant and when the purity of the mechanical view is preferred. This small act of pressing the pusher creates a connection between the wearer and the machine, a tactile dialogue that is rare in modern watchmaking. It is this focus on user experience, combined with deep mechanical substance, that sets the Orbit apart.
The existence of a watch like the Orbit is a direct result of Armin Strom's independent status. This freedom allows the brand to pursue unconventional ideas and invest heavily in developing unique complications that larger, more commercially-driven brands might deem too niche. The on-demand date is a perfect example of this spirit—it solves a "problem" that many may not have known they had, but does so in such a mechanically elegant and satisfying way that it creates its own desirability. It is a complication born from a pure love of watchmaking.
The Orbit Lime Green and Orbit Ice Blue are masterful exercises in blending opposites. They fuse the time-honored traditions of Swiss hand-finishing with a forward-thinking, almost architectural design. They combine the playful interactivity of the date complication with the serious, performance-oriented engineering of the Equal Force Barrel. The result is a watch that feels both technically robust and artistically expressive, a piece of contemporary mechanical art that is meant to be worn and enjoyed.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
This level of artistry and innovation is, by its nature, exclusive. The Armin Strom Orbit Ice Blue and Orbit Lime Green are each produced in a strictly limited edition of just 20 pieces worldwide. This scarcity ensures that each watch remains a rare and special object, a point of distinction for the collector who values unique design and mechanical creativity.
The Armin Strom Orbit Ice Blue and Orbit Lime Green are available at a price of CHF 36,000. For this, the owner receives a timepiece that is entirely designed, developed, and assembled in-house, featuring multiple patented technologies and a level of hand-finishing that stands among the best in the industry. Given the extremely limited production of only 20 pieces for each color variant, these watches represent a rare opportunity to acquire a significant and distinctive piece of contemporary independent horology.
Case: Stainless steel case measuring 43.4 mm in diameter, 12.6 mm in height, and 44.35 mm lug-to-lug. Features a fixed black ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment, and 5 ATM water resistance.
Movement: Armin Strom Manufacture Caliber ASS20 with automatic winding via micro-rotor. Features a 72-hour power reserve, 30 jewels, 273 components, and a frequency of 3.5 Hz (25,200 vph). Complications include a column-wheel date on demand and a patented equal force barrel.
Dial: Off-center fumé dial in either Ice Blue or Lime Green. Rhodium, facetted and polished hands. Indexes and hands are filled with Super-LumiNova®.
Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with a double-folding clasp.
Price: CHF 36’000
Reference Number: ST25-OR.05 (Lime Green), ST25-OR.21 (Ice Blue)
Notes: The watch features a world-first on-demand date complication, where a central hand points to the date on the ceramic bezel when activated by a pusher. Limited edition of 20 pieces for each color.