Vacheron Constantin Grand Lady Kalla

Vacheron Constantin is adding a significant new chapter to its long-running high jewellery saga, introducing three new interpretations of the Grand Lady Kalla. This design, which first appeared in 2024, is now being infused with vibrant color. The new models are defined by their precious stones: one variation pairs white diamonds with emeralds and is set in 950 platinum, while two others use rubies or sapphires, both set in 18K white gold. These pieces build on a legacy that Vacheron Constantin started with the iconic Kallista watch in 1979, further cementing the brand's commitment to creating elaborate, gem-focused timepieces.



The core concept of the Grand Lady Kalla is its transformable nature. Each set is not a single item but a collection of four distinct, fully gem-set elements. This includes the watch itself, a "jewel piece" module that mirrors the watch's shape but is purely decorative, a three-row rivière-style bracelet, and a long sautoir necklace. These components are designed to be interchangeable, allowing the owner to wear the assembly in four different ways: the watch can be attached to the bracelet for a traditional look, or the jewel piece can be fitted for a pure jewellery statement. Similarly, both the watch and the jewel piece can be connected to the sautoir, transforming them into a pendant.



This release is presented as a continuation of Vacheron Constantin's deep connection to feminine watchmaking, a history that is rich with decorative and complex jewellery pieces. The Grand Lady Kalla is conceptualized from the ground up as a piece of High Jewellery in which a timepiece is integrated, rather than simply being a watch embellished with stones. This philosophy aligns with the creative and technical pursuits that have been central to the watchmaker since its founding in 1755, demonstrating a 270-year-long pursuit of excellence in both horology and the decorative arts.



The Maison's archives confirm this longstanding relationship. Vacheron Constantin's private collection holds examples of ornate ladies' watches stretching back to its earliest years, including a gem-set piece from 1812. Another notable historical item is a 1924 creation set with multi-colored gemstones, which itself was transformable, capable of being worn as either a pendant or a brooch. This legacy of versatility is a clear forerunner to the modern Grand Lady Kalla. The Art Nouveau and Art Deco periods, in particular, were eras of immense creativity for the brand's jewellery watches, which have continued to evolve aesthetically through the 20th and 21st centuries.



In an interview, Vacheron Constantin's Product & Innovation Director, Sandrine Donguy, emphasized this rich history. She noted that from the very first women's pocket watches at the end of the 18th century, the Maison has captured the spirit of the times. The archives include a 1901 pendant brooch watch with diamond-set volutes indicative of Art Nouveau, and a 1911 rectangular platinum and diamond model that signaled inventive new forms. These pieces show a consistent dialogue with art, fashion, and changing social customs, fulfilling feminine desires for expressive timepieces.



Ms. Donguy also highlighted the aesthetic revolution of the Art Deco period, which began in the mid-1920s. This era saw watch silhouettes break free from old conventions. Hunter-case pocket watches on chains were replaced by sculptural forms, rigorous geometric lines, and pure color palettes. Cases became oval, rectangular, square, or even asymmetrical, often set with stones in two-tone variations. A 1923 timepiece from the private collection, with its white gold case and hexagonal dial set with diamonds and sapphires, is a striking example of this shift. This period cemented women's transition to the wristwatch.



The "Kalla" story proper began in 1979 with the introduction of the Kallista. This was a one-of-a-kind creation, a true masterpiece of its time. Designed by Raymond Moretti, it featured an innovative design that integrated a solid 18K gold case, weighing 140 grams and sculpted from a single ingot, directly into a rivière bracelet. The entire piece was set with an incredible 130 carats of diamonds. The Kallista set a new benchmark for Vacheron Constantin's high jewellery ambitions and established the "Kalla" name.



Following the Kallista, the Lady Kalla was unveiled in 1980. This model was also sculpted from 18K yellow gold and was profusely set with 108 emerald-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 30 carats. This began a whole series of "Kalla" variations that would explore this concept of diamond-heavy, bracelet-style watches, including models like the Miss Kalla, Queen Kalla, Lord Kalla, King Kalla, and Duchesse Kalla, each playing on the theme.



The Kalla line continued to be a platform for the Maison's gem-setting prowess into the new millennium. In 2001, a Lady Kalla model presented on a satin strap, featuring a single-piece case carved from a block of 18K white gold, won the prestigious Jewellery Watch award at the very first Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). Later, to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Lady Kalla in 2010, the brand introduced the Lady Kalla Flame, which debuted a distinctive and proprietary "Flame" cut, a testament to its ongoing innovation in gem-setting.



This brings the legacy to the immediate predecessor of the new models: the 2024 Grand Lady Kalla. That piece, a monochromatic combination of diamonds, white Akoya pearls, and black onyx beads, was the watch that introduced the dazzling new design and the four-way interchangeable system. The 2025 releases take this established platform and infuse it with the vibrant, classic colors of sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, opening a new chapter for the collection.



The design language of the Grand Lady Kalla carries a strong echo of the Art Deco style. This is most apparent in the rectilinear geometry of the bracelet, the watch head, and the jewel piece. These elements feature clean, straight lines and sharp angles, creating a structured and architectural feel. This is purposefully contrasted with the "sinuous grace" of the 85 cm sautoir necklace, which is composed of flowing, rounded pearls and beads, offering a softer, more fluid alternative.



A key design choice for the collection is the near-exclusive use of the emerald cut for the diamonds and colored stones on the watch case, bracelet, and jewel piece. This cut, rectangular with bevelled corners, features long, step-like horizontal facets. The visual effect is not the high-frequency glitter associated with brilliant cuts, but rather more "understated yet impressive flashes of light" that complement the watch's sophisticated, linear architecture.



There is a technical reason for choosing this cut. Because the emerald cut is less reflective, it inherently highlights the body color of the gemstone. This makes it an ideal choice for showcasing the Deep Blue of the sapphires, the rich red of the rubies, and the vibrant green of the emeralds. Furthermore, the large, open table facet acts like a window directly into the stone. This transparency means any inclusions would be easily visible, so the cut is generally reserved only for gemstones of higher clarity, attesting to the quality of the stones selected.



In striking contrast to the faceted emerald cuts, the large central stone on the interchangeable jewel piece is a sugarloaf cut. This is a smooth, domed shape with ancient origins, named after the form in which refined sugar was sold until the late 19th century. It is essentially a variation of the classic cabochon cut, but with four polished sides that rise to a subtle point. This rare cut interacts with light in a completely different way.



The effect of the sugarloaf cut is one of depth and color enhancement. Instead of reflecting light off facets, the light glides over the smooth, polished surface and penetrates deep into the stone. This illuminates the gem's internal features and enhances its perceived depth and color in a way that faceted cuts cannot achieve. Creating a sugarloaf cut demands a high level of skill and precision to maintain the gem's natural beauty while creating perfectly smooth and symmetrical surfaces.



The craftsmanship extends to the method of setting. The visual impression of an unbroken, glittering expanse of precious stones is achieved through a claw-setting. This technique minimizes the amount of visible metal, allowing the maximum amount of light to pass through each stone. This enhances the brilliance and presence of the gems, making them the undisputed focus of the design.



Upon closer inspection, a special, hidden detail is revealed. The claws themselves are not simple prongs; each one is meticulously shaped like a branch of the Maltese Cross, Vacheron Constantin's emblem. At the points where four stones meet, these individual branches join to form a complete, tiny Maltese Cross. This signature is barely visible to the naked eye and represents a subtle integration of the brand's identity directly into the jewellery work.



The technical engineering of the watch is just as considered as the gem-setting. All the functional components—the clasps, the fastenings for the interchangeable modules, and even the time-setting crown—are completely hidden from view. They are cleverly concealed beneath the stones, ensuring that the purely aesthetic, architectural lines of the jewellery are not interrupted by any visible mechanisms. The modules can be swapped in moments via these hidden locks, requiring no special tools.



The sautoir necklace is an intricate component in its own right. Measuring 85 cm in length, it combines the soft glow of 112 Akoya pearls, which were specifically chosen for their deep lustre and high shine. These are complemented by beads of polished precious stones (sapphire, ruby, or emerald) and additional beads of polished ornamental stones that are color-matched to the main gem. The necklace finishes with an elegant tassel composed of more pearls and a final polished bead of the precious stone.



The first of the new trio is the Grand Lady Kalla – Sapphire. This model is set entirely in 18K white gold. It features a total of approximately 49.72 carats of SSEF-certified sapphires. This includes eight emerald-cut sapphires on the bracelet, two on the watch, two on the jewel piece, and the central sugarloaf-cut sapphire. The accompanying sautoir is strung with 31 blue sapphire beads and 20 polished beads of blue chalcedony.



Next is the Grand Lady Kalla – Ruby, which is also set in 18K white gold. This version boasts a total of approximately 49.85 carats of SSEF-certified rubies, distributed in the same manner across the bracelet, watch, and jewel piece. Its sautoir is unique, pairing its 31 polished ruby beads with 20 polished beads of soft pink chalcedony, creating a complementary, warm-toned necklace.



The final model, the Grand Lady Kalla – Emerald, is distinct in its base material. It is set in 950 platinum, its cool white tone enhancing the vibrant green of the gems. It is set with a total of approximately 35.72 carats of emeralds. The sautoir for this version features 31 polished emerald beads and is complemented by 20 polished beads of chrysoprase, another green ornamental stone.



Focusing on the watch module itself, the case measures 18.4 mm by 30.1 mm, with a thickness of 8.3 mm. The case is set with 10 emerald-cut diamonds and two emerald-cut colored gems. The dial is not a separate component in the traditional sense, but rather a seamless, fully paved surface set with 14 emerald-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 1.54 carats. Telling the time is secondary to the jewellery, with only two slender 18K white gold hour and minute hands sweeping across the diamond-paved surface.



Powering the watch is the Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1212. This is a quartz movement, a logical and practical choice for a high-jewellery piece where the primary constraints are diminutive size and slender-profile. The movement is tiny, measuring just 11.3 mm in diameter and 2.5 mm thick, allowing the case to remain delicate. It is composed of 85 components and 6 jewels, operating at 32.7 Hz.



The entire Grand Lady Kalla set is presented in an elegant box befitting its stature. This package is accompanied by a specially designed document holder, which contains a certificate of authenticity for the watch and its numerous, SSEF-certified gemstones. It also includes a designer's original gouache, an intricate hand-painted illustration of the piece, connecting the final product back to its original artistic conception.



Given the extraordinary quantity of high-clarity diamonds and the significant carat weight of certified precious sapphires, rubies, and emeralds, these pieces represent a major statement in high jewellery. Each of the three new Vacheron Constantin Grand Lady Kalla variations is listed as price upon request, placing them among the most exclusive and significant creations offered by the Maison.



Grand Lady Kalla Sapphire



Case: 18K white gold. 18.4 mm x 30.1 mm, 8.3 mm thick. Case fully paved with 10 emerald-cut diamonds (~5.84 cts) and 2 emerald-cut sapphires (~1.13 cts), SSEF certified.

Movement: Calibre 1212. Quartz. 11.3 mm diameter, 2.5 mm thick. 32.7 Hz. 85 components, 6 jewels.

Dial: Fully paved with 14 emerald-cut diamonds (~1.54 cts). 18K white gold hour and minute hands.

Strap: 18K white gold bracelet fully paved with 103 emerald-cut diamonds (~23.26 cts) and 8 emerald-cut sapphires (~5.51 cts). Also includes 85cm sautoir with 199 Akoya pearls, 31 blue sapphire beads (~42.38 cts), and 20 blue chalcedony beads (~17.40 cts).

Price: Price upon request

Reference Number: 1208J/118G-H131

Notes: Set includes interchangeable watch, jewel piece, bracelet, and sautoir necklace. The jewel piece features a central sugarloaf-cut sapphire (~2.54 cts). Total sapphire weight is ~49.72 carats.





Grand Lady Kalla Ruby



Case: 18K white gold. 18.4 mm x 30.1 mm, 8.3 mm thick. Case fully paved with 10 emerald-cut diamonds (~5.84 cts) and 2 emerald-cut rubies (~1.06 cts), SSEF certified.

Movement: Calibre 1212. Quartz. 11.3 mm diameter, 2.5 mm thick. 32.7 Hz. 85 components, 6 jewels.

Dial: Fully paved with 14 emerald-cut diamonds (~1.54 cts). 18K white gold hour and minute hands.

Strap: 18K white gold bracelet fully paved with 103 emerald-cut diamonds (~23.26 cts) and 8 emerald-cut rubies (~5.03 cts). Also includes 85cm sautoir with 112 Akoya pearls, 31 ruby beads (~42.38 cts), and 20 pink chalcedony beads (~15.40 cts).

Price: Price upon request

Reference Number: 1208J/118G-H130

Notes: Set includes interchangeable watch, jewel piece, bracelet, and sautoir necklace. The jewel piece features a central sugarloaf-cut ruby (~2.79 cts). Total ruby weight is ~49.85 carats.





Grand Lady Kalla Emerald



Case: 950 Platinum. 18.4 mm x 30.1 mm, 8.3 mm thick. Case fully paved with 10 emerald-cut diamonds (~5.84 cts) and 2 emerald-cut emeralds (~0.78 cts).

Movement: Calibre 1212. Quartz. 11.3 mm diameter, 2.5 mm thick. 32.7 Hz. 85 components, 6 jewels.

Dial: Fully paved with 14 emerald-cut diamonds (~1.54 cts). 18K white gold hour and minute hands.

Strap: 950 Platinum bracelet fully set with 103 emerald-cut diamonds (~23.26 cts) and 8 emerald-cut emeralds (~4.77 cts). Also includes 85cm sautoir with 199 Akoya pearls, 31 emerald beads (~30.43 cts), and 20 chrysoprase beads (~13.80 cts).

Price: Price upon request

Reference Number: 1208J/118P-H129

Notes: Set includes interchangeable watch, jewel piece, bracelet, and sautoir necklace. The jewel piece features a central sugarloaf-cut emerald (~1.95 cts). Total emerald weight is ~35.72 carats.