Trilobe Trente-Deux

In the landscape of independent watchmaking, certain milestones signal a brand's transition from promising upstart to established creator. For the Parisian house of Trilobe, the introduction of the Trente-Deux collection is precisely that moment. Arriving seven years after the brand's inception, this new family of timepieces represents a profound evolution, underpinned by the brand's very first in-house manufacture movement, a caliber born and bred entirely within the city of Paris. It's a declaration of independence and a confident stride into a new territory of mechanical and aesthetic expression.



The name "Trente-Deux," or thirty-two, is far from arbitrary. It is a number deeply woven into the fabric of the brand's identity, serving as the physical street address for Trilobe's design studio and Parisian workshop. For the three years this collection was under development, "32" was its internal codename, a constant reminder of its origins. This collection, therefore, becomes a manifesto of sorts—a tangible representation of the brand’s commitment to its unique vision, its Parisian roots, and its passion for inventive horology.



The Trente-Deux collection maintains the brand's foundational DNA while pushing the design language forward. It builds upon the legacy of Trilobe’s earlier pieces, most notably the Nuit Fantastique, by retaining the signature off-center time display. However, this familiar concept is presented within a completely re-envisioned architecture. The most immediate and striking new feature is the introduction of an integrated stainless steel bracelet, a design choice that firmly places the Trente-Deux in the highly competitive and sought-after category of integrated sports watches, opening a new chapter for the brand's aesthetic.



The dial is a masterclass in texture, depth, and unconventional time-telling. Available in a deep Sunray Blue or a sophisticated Sunray Grey, the face of the watch immediately draws the eye. The time is displayed not by traditional hands, but by three rotating rings. The outermost ring indicates the hours, read against a fixed, pointed trefoil—the Trilobe logo. Inside that, a smaller ring marks the minutes, and at its center, a constantly turning seconds wheel completes the display. This patented system places all indicating elements on the same plane, creating a clean and surprisingly intuitive layout.



Looking closer at the dial's surface reveals an intricate play of finishes that create contrast and visual interest. The main dial plate features a matte sunray finish that radiates from the center, catching and scattering light beautifully. The discs for the hours and minutes are finished with a fine graining, giving them a distinct texture that separates them from the sunburst background. The seconds wheel is perhaps the most ornate, featuring a combination of fine circular graining, known as azurage, and a classic Clous de Paris guilloché pattern at its very center. This layering of different textures demonstrates a meticulous attention to detail and a desire to reward close inspection.



Anchoring the entire composition is a prominent circular chapter ring that separates the hour track from the rest of the dial. This ring is exceptionally thin, a feature that requires absolute precision during the machining process to ensure it remains perfectly flat without any deformation. It features a dual finish that mirrors the treatment on the bracelet; its surface is vertically satin-brushed, while its beveled edges are mirror-polished. This element not only frames the time display but also serves as a crucial design link between the dial and the case.



The case of the Trente-Deux is a sculptural object in its own right, moving beyond simple cylindrical forms. Machined from 316L stainless steel, it is a complex assembly of seven distinct components, each individually finished. The overall silhouette is defined by three chamfered tiers, creating a layered profile that is further enhanced by subtle, asymmetrical lateral fins. The mid-case is beveled, and the surfaces alternate between mirror-polished and satin-brushed finishes, creating a dynamic interplay of reflections that highlight the case's unique geometry.



A key element of the case architecture is the bezel. Instead of a simple flat or domed shape, it is intricately fluted, with sharp, mirror-polished ridges separated by matte, microblasted grooves. This design choice significantly enhances the play of light and shadow on the case, adding a level of visual complexity and refinement. The geometry of the fluting subtly incorporates the pointed Trilobe motif, and its design is directly echoed in the fluted push-button crown, creating a sense of design harmony across the watch's exterior components. Measuring 39.5 mm in diameter and a relatively slim 10.15 mm in thickness, the case is proportioned for modern sensibilities and comfortable wear.



Integral to the Trente-Deux's identity is its new stainless steel bracelet, which was designed not as an accessory but as a cohesive extension of the case itself. The construction is a sophisticated yet straightforward layout of alternating primary links and smaller interlinks. Each main link is satin-brushed on its top surface and features polished beveled edges, and the links are designed to gradually narrow as they approach the clasp, a process known as tapering, which enhances both comfort and visual fluidity. This tapering design allows the bracelet to conform perfectly to the contours of the wrist.



The interlinks provide a point of polished contrast. Their mirror-finished surfaces are shaped to echo the pointed form of the Trilobe logo, creating a repeating signature motif that animates the entire length of the bracelet. These interlinks are cleverly designed, with their external faces being decorative while their internal faces are purely functional, ensuring the overall structure is robust and flexible. The bracelet is secured by a double folding clasp that is cleanly integrated, featuring no visible push buttons and operating via a simple spring blade mechanism for intuitive handling. The clasp is finished with a discreet engraving of the Trilobe logo.



Turning the Trente-Deux over reveals the true heart of the collection, visible through a sapphire crystal caseback. Here lies the X-Nihilo calibre, Trilobe’s first-ever in-house manufacture movement. This is a monumental achievement for the brand, as the entire movement—from initial concept and design to the final machining, decoration, and assembly of its 218 components—was completed within their Parisian manufacture. This accomplishment allows Trilobe to control every aspect of its watchmaking and solidifies its place as a serious horological creator.



The architecture of the X-Nihilo calibre is as unconventional as the time display it powers. It is designed around what the brand calls an "open island," a layout that creates a dramatic sense of space and deliberately spotlights a large, magnified balance wheel. This balance wheel is a custom design, featuring four chronometric regulation screws for precise adjustment, ensuring long-term stability and accuracy. It is held in place by a gracefully curved bridge that pays homage to traditional watchmaking design, creating a beautiful contrast between classic and contemporary elements.



The finishing and decoration of the X-Nihilo movement are executed to a high standard, showcasing a variety of techniques that create a rich visual tapestry. The bridges and plates feature contrasting textures, with either fine or raw graining effects. Screws and jewels are given special prominence, highlighted by concave, diamond-polished surroundings that catch the light, while the screw heads themselves receive a deep black polishing. The bridges feature a satin finish that echoes the bracelet links, and the rhodium-plated gears display a circular brushing that aligns with their direction of motion.



A warm tone is introduced through a 5N gold treatment on certain components, a finish whose subtle warmth and patina are designed to evolve gracefully over time. Seen through the caseback, the movement seems to almost float in mid-air. This stunning optical effect is achieved by giving the inner wall of the case a full mirror polish, which reflects the movement's components and creates an illusion of incredible depth and space, making the calibre appear suspended within the case.



The automatic winding system is driven by an openworked oscillating weight, which is crafted from tungsten for winding efficiency. Its design is both functional and aesthetic, with a sunburst pattern combined with grain texturing that highlights its light, skeletal structure. The open design ensures that the view of the balance wheel remains largely unobstructed. In a thoughtful touch of engineering, the oscillating weight is equipped with a system of safety pins designed to protect the movement from major shocks, preventing damage to the bridges and other internal components.



A final nod to the watch's origin is found engraved on one of the movement's main bridges. The words "Paris – France" are inscribed in a distinctive typography inspired by the look of vintage Parisian street signs. This detail is more than just a label; it is a proud affirmation of the watch's identity and a tribute to the city where it was conceived, engineered, and brought to life. It is the final signature on a movement that is both technically proficient and aesthetically unique.



The technical specifications of the X-Nihilo calibre confirm its modern design. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), a standard for contemporary watches that offers a good balance between accuracy and longevity. It contains 34 functional jewels and provides a power reserve of approximately 42 hours when fully wound. The movement's dimensions are substantial, with a diameter of 35.2 mm and a thickness of 7 mm, filling the caseback nicely.



The watch's external specifications are equally well-considered. The 39.5 mm stainless steel case has a lug-to-lug height of 46.18 mm, dimensions that make it suitable for a wide variety of wrist sizes. Both the front and back crystals are made of sapphire, with multi-layer anti-reflective coatings to ensure maximum clarity and legibility. The water resistance is rated to 5 bar, equivalent to approximately 50 meters, making the watch more than capable of handling daily wear and unexpected splashes.



The Trente-Deux collection marks a new era of maturity for Trilobe. It is the culmination of seven years of daring design and a relentless pursuit of a unique watchmaking vision. By developing the X-Nihilo calibre, the brand has taken a crucial and difficult step towards full manufacturing independence, a move that allows for unbound creativity and a guarantee of quality from start to finish. This watch is a statement of capability, blending the brand's established poetic time-telling with the robust and versatile aesthetic of an integrated steel sports watch.



The Trilobe Trente-Deux is offered in two dial variations. The Trente-Deux Sunray Blue (reference 3201BS) and the Trente-Deux Sunray Grey (reference 3201GS) are both priced at EUR 16,500. This price point places the watch in a competitive segment but reflects the immense investment and achievement of developing a proprietary, fully in-house movement, especially one designed and manufactured entirely in Paris. The collection is a compelling proposition for collectors seeking something truly different, backed by genuine horological substance.



Case: 316L stainless steel, composed of 7 components. 39.5 mm diameter, 10.15 mm thickness, 46.18 mm lug-to-lug height. Fluted bezel with polished ridges and microblasted grooves. Sapphire crystal with multi-layer anti-reflective coating on front and back. Water resistance of 5 bar (˜ 50 meters).

Movement: In-house X-Nihilo automatic mechanical calibre. 42-hour power reserve, 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) frequency. 34 jewels, 218 total components. 35.2 mm diameter, 7 mm thickness.

Dial: Available in Sunray Blue or Sunray Grey. Features a matte sunray finish, grained discs for hours and minutes, and a seconds wheel with azurage and Clous de Paris guilloché. Patented display with rotating rings for hours, minutes, and seconds.

Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with satin-brushed and beveled links and mirror-polished interlinks. Double folding clasp engraved with the Trilobe logo.

Price: EUR 16,500

Reference Number: 3201BS (Sunray Blue), 3201GS (Sunray Grey)

Notes: The Trente-Deux features Trilobe's first in-house manufacture movement, the X-Nihilo calibre. The movement is entirely conceived, designed, developed, machined, decorated, and assembled in Paris, France.