TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1

Radical Aerodynamics

Words by: Hourstriker Staff
November 19, 2025
The unveiling of the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 at Dubai Watch Week in November 2025 marks a distinct pivot point in the trajectory of the La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture. While the Monaco collection has existed since 1969 as a pillar of square-cased, water-resistant horology, this specific release signals a departure from merely revisiting vintage aesthetics. Instead, it embraces a hyper-technical future that prioritizes material science and advanced manufacturing techniques. The watch is not simply a new colorway or a dial variation; it is a fundamental reimagining of what the Monaco architecture can support, utilizing a chassis built through additive manufacturing to achieve a level of skeletal complexity that traditional CNC milling could never accomplish. With a limited run of only 30 pieces, this model serves as a showcase for the brand's "avant-garde" tagline, moving it from a marketing slogan to a tangible engineering reality.



The most immediately arresting aspect of the Air 1 is the case construction, which completely abandons the solid-block machining methods that have defined the Monaco for over half a century. The engineers at the TAG Heuer LAB employed Selective Laser Melting (SLM), a sophisticated 3D printing process typically reserved for aerospace components or medical implants where complex internal geometries are required. By sintering Grade 5 titanium powder layer by layer, they have created a case that is effectively hollowed out, featuring internal lattices and structures that reduce weight significantly without compromising structural integrity. This method allows for a case that mimics the aerodynamic principles of high-performance automotive design, where airflow is managed through intakes and vents. The result is a housing that appears stripped back to its bare essentials, weighing in at a remarkable 85 grams despite the inclusion of the movement and strap.

Courtesy of TAG Heuer


Visually, the watch presents a darkened, industrial aesthetic that is punctuated by sharp, deliberate contrasts. The Grade 5 titanium case has been treated with a black Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating, which gives it a stealthy, matte appearance that absorbs light rather than reflecting it. This darkness serves as a canvas for the specific highlights that define the "Air 1" identity. The bezel and pushers maintain this somber tone, but the architecture is broken up by the inclusion of solid 18K 2N yellow gold elements. These are not merely decorative plating; they are structural components, specifically the honeycomb lattices visible beneath the bezel and the distinctive split-seconds pusher located at the 9 o'clock position. This mix of materials—the clinical, cold nature of black titanium against the warmth of yellow gold—creates a visual tension that highlights the bridge between traditional luxury materials and modern industrial capabilities.



The dial of the Air 1 is less of a surface and more of a window into the mechanical heart of the machine. A sapphire crystal dial provides the substrate for the applied indices, allowing for an unobstructed view of the mainplate and bridges below. The layout preserves the classic Monaco bi-compax orientation, with the chronograph minute counter at 3 o'clock and the hour counter at 9 o'clock. These sub-dials are rendered in black opaline, floating above the mechanics, and are secured by X-shaped bridges that have become a signature of TAG Heuer’s recent high-complication skeletonized pieces. These bridges are finished with brushed top surfaces and polished bevels, catching the light in a way that emphasizes the depth of the assembly. The hands are a study in legibility against a complex background; the hour and minute hands are rhodium-plated and filled with white Super-LumiNova, while the central chronograph seconds hand is lacquered in white. Crucially, the split-seconds hand—the star of this complication—is lacquered in gold, allowing the wearer to instantly distinguish between the two timing intervals when the rattrapante function is engaged.



At the 9 o'clock position on the case flank, the solitary golden pusher draws the eye immediately. In the standard Monaco configuration, the crown was historically placed on the left to signal that the watch did not need winding, thanks to the Calibre 11 automatic movement. Here, the crown resides on the right, but the 9 o'clock position is utilized for the split-seconds activation button. The choice of 18K 2N yellow gold for this specific interaction point is tactile and visual; it separates the "split" function from the standard start-stop-reset operations handled by the black DLC titanium pushers on the right side of the case. The pushers themselves are shaped and sandblasted, designed for grip and ease of actuation, mimicking the paddle shifters found in modern racing cockpits. The integration of the gold element here is a subtle nod to the heritage of the collection while assigning it a new, high-complication functional purpose.



Powering this aerodynamic structure is the Calibre TH81-00, a movement that represents the pinnacle of TAG Heuer’s mechanical capabilities in the current era. Developed in partnership with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, this automatic split-seconds chronograph movement is a high-frequency engine, beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5Hz. This higher frequency allows for timing precision to the nearest tenth of a second, a necessary feature for a watch rooted in motorsport heritage. The movement itself is constructed extensively from titanium, a choice that mirrors the case material and contributes to the overall lightness of the timepiece. Working with titanium for movement components is notoriously difficult due to the material's hardness and fire risk during machining, yet it offers superior durability and shock resistance compared to traditional brass or gold movement blanks.

Courtesy of TAG Heuer


The rattrapante mechanism is arguably the most prestigious variation of the chronograph complication, allowing for the measurement of intermediate times or the timing of two concurrent events that start simultaneously. When the chronograph is activated, the white and gold central hands move together, appearing as one. Upon pressing the gold pusher at 9 o'clock, the gold split-seconds hand stops to mark an intermediate time, while the white hand continues its march. A second press allows the gold hand to instantly catch up—"rattraper" in French—to the main hand. The Calibre TH81-00 executes this dance with precision, managed by a complex system of clamps and wheels visible through the sapphire caseback. The power reserve of the movement stands at 65 hours with the chronograph disengaged, or 55 hours if the chronograph is left running, ensuring that the watch can remain off the wrist for a weekend and still be ticking on Monday morning.



The view through the exhibition caseback is as compelling as the front. The oscillating weight, shaped like the TAG Heuer shield, features a honeycomb pattern that echoes the lattices of the case. It is engraved with "Fifty-Two Jewels," indicating the complexity of the pivot points required to manage the split-seconds function. The finishing on the movement is top-tier, featuring the brand's signature "checkered flag" motif on the bridges, a decoration that reinforces the racing connection without being overly literal. The contrast between the grey tones of the titanium movement plates and the ruby jewels creates a technical, almost futuristic landscape. The caseback is secured by four visible screws, and the sapphire crystal is domed and beveled to ensure comfort against the wrist while maximizing the viewing angle of the mechanism.



Ergonomics played a massive role in the design of the Air 1, particularly given the often bulky nature of square watches. The use of SLM technology allowed the designers to refine the lugs and the case profile to wrap more naturally around the wrist. The dimensions are significant, with a diameter of 41mm and a lug-to-lug measurement of 47.9mm, but the 85-gram weight transforms the wearing experience. A standard steel Monaco can feel top-heavy; the Air 1 feels integrated and balanced. The reduction in mass means that the watch does not shift uncomfortably during rapid arm movements, making it a viable sports watch despite its high price tag and precious metal inclusions. The total thickness is 15.2mm, which is substantial, but the architectural hollowing of the case sides visually breaks up the vertical profile, making it appear slimmer than the raw numbers suggest.



The strap fitted to the Air 1 is a technical hybrid designed to withstand the rigors of daily wear while maintaining a luxury feel. It combines black rubber with Alcantara, a synthetic textile material often found in the interiors of high-end sports cars due to its grip and durability. The texture of the Alcantara provides a soft contrast to the cold, hard surfaces of the titanium case and the sapphire crystal. The strap is secured by a folding clasp made from Grade 5 titanium, finished in black DLC to match the case. This clasp features safety push-buttons to prevent accidental opening and is fine-brushed and polished. The integration of the strap into the case lugs is seamless, continuing the aerodynamic lines initiated by the case flanks and ensuring that the airflow concept is carried through to the very attachment point of the watch.

Courtesy of TAG Heuer


The dial details warrant a closer inspection to fully appreciate the level of finishing involved. The "MONACO" text is printed at the top of the dial, flanked by the "RATTRAPANTE" and "CHRONOGRAPH" designations in the lower hemisphere. These texts are unobtrusive, allowing the mechanical elements to dominate the visual field. The small seconds indicator at 6 o'clock is a permanent second indicator ring made from fine-brushed and sandblasted Grade 5 titanium. It is minimalist, eschewing a traditional sub-dial in favor of a floating ring that maintains the transparency of the overall dial design. The hands for the chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o'clock are lacquered in gold, tying them visually to the split-seconds hand and the gold case accents, creating a color-coded system where gold indicates chronograph functions (split and counters) and rhodium/white indicates standard timekeeping.



Historically, the Monaco has been a canvas for disruption. When Jack Heuer launched it in 1969, it was the first square, water-resistant automatic chronograph, a feat that required new gasket technology and a massive investment in case design. It was a commercial failure initially, deemed too avant-garde for the traditionalists of the era, before finding its cult status through association with Steve McQueen and the film Le Mans. The Air 1 channels that initial spirit of disruption. It does not seek to please the purist who wants a simple blue dial and two white registers. It seeks to push the boundaries of what a square watch can be in the 21st century. By adopting Selective Laser Melting, TAG Heuer is stating that the future of the Monaco lies in material innovation, not just heritage reissues. This specific model sits in a lineage of high-concept pieces, such as the V4 with its belt-driven movement, proving that the Monaco is the brand's chosen vessel for its most ambitious experiments.



The aesthetic cohesion of the Air 1 is achieved through the repetition of the honeycomb and lattice motifs. This is not merely a pattern stamped onto a dial; it is the fundamental structure of the object. The laser-cut gold lattices under the bezel mimic the air intakes of a mid-engine supercar, feeding "air" into the movement. The transparency of the sapphire dial allows light to penetrate deep into the movement, illuminating the moving parts and creating a dynamic interplay of shadow and reflection. Every time the wearer checks the time, they are greeted by a micro-mechanical metropolis, a dense layering of gears, springs, and levers that operate in perfect synchronization. The absence of a traditional dial surface means there is no place to hide imperfections; every component must be finished to a high standard, as it is constantly on display.



The practical utility of the split-seconds function in a modern context is often debated, but in the world of high-end mechanical watchmaking, utility is secondary to mechanical artistry. The ability to mechanically freeze a moment in time while time itself continues to flow is a poetic complication. Watching the gold hand detach from the white hand, hover frozen over a specific index, and then snap back into alignment with an imperceptible click is a tactile joy that defines the ownership experience of a high-complication chronograph. It transforms the watch from a passive object into an interactive instrument, inviting the user to play with the passage of time. The tactile response of the pushers, tuned to provide a crisp resistance and a satisfying release, further enhances this interaction.

Courtesy of TAG Heuer


The use of Grade 5 titanium for the case is a critical differentiator from the more common Grade 2 titanium often used in entry-level luxury watches. Grade 5 is an alloy that includes aluminum and vanadium, making it significantly harder and more scratch-resistant than pure titanium, which is relatively soft. It is also capable of taking a high polish, unlike Grade 2 which usually appears grey and dull. The Air 1 utilizes this property to mix sandblasted surfaces with polished bevels, creating a sophisticated interplay of textures. The black DLC coating adds another layer of hardness, protecting the watch from the inevitable knocks and scrapes of daily wear. This durability ensures that the complex geometry of the case remains sharp and defined over time, preserving the aerodynamic lines that define the watch’s character.



The exclusivity of the Air 1 is guaranteed by its production numbers. With only 30 pieces being manufactured, it is a rare bird in the world of horology. This limitation is likely driven by the complexity of the manufacturing process. SLM is a slow, expensive method, and the hand-finishing required for the titanium movement components is labor-intensive. Each watch is engraved with "LIMITED EDITION" and its unique number "X/30" on the oscillating weight, confirming its place in the series. This scarcity ensures that the Air 1 will remain a coveted item for collectors of avant-garde independent-style watchmaking, placing TAG Heuer in conversation with niche brands that specialize in futuristic, three-dimensional horology.



Water resistance is rated at 30 meters, which is standard for a high-complication split-seconds chronograph but perhaps less than one might expect from a brand with "Heuer" in the name. However, given the complex case construction and the numerous pushers piercing the case flank, this rating is understandable. This is not a dive watch; it is a track-side instrument. The 30-meter rating is sufficient to protect the movement from rain or splashes, which is the realistic environmental exposure a watch of this caliber will face. The focus here is on air, not water—aerodynamics, lightness, and speed are the governing elements.



The sapphire crystals used on both the front and back are treated with anti-reflective coatings to ensure clarity. On a skeletonized watch, reflections can be particularly distracting, confusing the eye as it tries to focus on the deep layers of the movement. The quality of the coating on the Air 1 renders the crystal almost invisible, removing the barrier between the observer and the mechanics. The beveled edge of the front crystal is a vintage nod, recalling the Plexiglas crystals of the 1970s, but executed in scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire. This blend of vintage silhouette and modern material science is a recurring theme throughout the watch's design.

Courtesy of TAG Heuer


In the broader context of the luxury watch market, the Air 1 positions TAG Heuer as a serious contender in the "haute horlogerie" space. It moves the conversation away from the mass-market Carrera models and into a realm of technical prowess usually occupied by brands with much higher price points. It demonstrates that a large, industrial manufacture can still possess the agility and creativity to produce experimental, limited-run pieces that challenge the status quo. The Air 1 is a statement of intent, a declaration that the future of TAG Heuer is not just about selling watches, but about advancing the science of watchmaking.



The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph Air 1 (Reference CBW218B.FT8124) will be available for purchase starting in December 2025. The price is set at 150,000 CHF, a figure that reflects the immense research and development costs, the precious materials, and the extreme rarity of the piece. Availability will be highly restricted, likely offered primarily to the brand's top-tier clients and collectors through select boutiques. For those fortunate enough to acquire one, it represents a piece of history—a moment where the iconic square case broke free from the constraints of traditional manufacturing to embrace the potential of the future.



Case: 41mm diameter x 15.2mm thickness x 47.9mm lug-to-lug; fine-brushed and sandblasted Grade 5 titanium created via Selective Laser Melting (SLM) additive manufacturing. Features a black DLC Grade 5 titanium bezel, solid 18K 2N yellow gold lattices, and a solid 18K 2N yellow gold split-seconds pusher at 9 o'clock. 30 meters water resistance.

Movement: Calibre TH81-00 automatic split-seconds chronograph; 5Hz (36,000 vph) frequency; 65-hour power reserve (55 hours with chronograph active). Constructed with Grade 5 titanium components and contains 52 jewels. Developed in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.

Dial: Sapphire dial featuring black opaline chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o'clock and a fine-brushed titanium permanent second ring at 6 o'clock. Applied white Super-LumiNova blocks, golden lacquered indexes, and a golden lacquered central split-seconds hand.

Strap: Black rubber and Alcantara strap. Secured by a polished, fine-brushed black DLC Grade 5 titanium butterfly folding clasp with safety push-buttons.

Price: 150'000 CHF

Reference Number: CBW218B.FT8124

Notes: Limited edition of 30 pieces available in December 2025. The total weight of the watch is 85 grams due to the hollowed case structure inspired by aerodynamic airflow.
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