TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring

In the lineage of horological design, few watches command the immediate recognition of the TAG Heuer Monaco. Its audacious square case, a departure from the round norms of its 1969 debut, cemented its place as a maverick symbol in watchmaking. Now, TAG Heuer leverages that iconic silhouette as a vessel for a profound technological leap forward, introducing the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring. This timepiece is not merely a new iteration; it represents a significant advancement in the fundamental mechanics of timekeeping, born from a decade of intensive research and development.



The history of TAG Heuer is deeply intertwined with the pursuit of precision and a pioneering spirit, particularly in the realm of chronographs. From its early stopwatches to its indelible connection with motorsport, the brand has consistently pushed the boundaries of performance. The original Monaco, powered by the groundbreaking Calibre 11, was the world's first square-cased automatic chronograph. It became an icon on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the film Le Mans, forever linking its distinctive shape with the high-stakes world of endurance racing. This new model honors that heritage by introducing an innovation that again redefines performance standards for a mechanical watch.



At the very heart of this new Monaco is the TH-Carbonspring, a revolutionary oscillator developed and produced entirely in-house by the TAG Heuer LAB. This component is the culmination of nearly ten years of relentless effort, a journey marked by both challenges and breakthroughs. To understand its importance, one must first consider the traditional regulating organ of a watch: the balance wheel and hairspring. This delicate pairing, invented by Christiaan Huygens in 1675, has been the bedrock of mechanical watchmaking for 350 years, but it has always had inherent vulnerabilities to magnetism, temperature variations, and physical shocks.



For centuries, watchmakers used steel for hairsprings, which, despite its reliability, was susceptible to the disruptive forces of modern life. The rise of electronic devices introduced pervasive magnetic fields that could compromise a watch's accuracy, sometimes stopping it altogether. Later advancements saw the introduction of specialized metal alloys and, more recently, silicon, which offered significant improvements in resistance to magnetism and temperature. These materials represented incremental steps forward, refining an existing concept to better withstand the rigors of the contemporary world.



TAG Heuer's approach with the TH-Carbonspring was more radical. Instead of iterating on existing silicon technology, the engineers and scientists at the TAG Heuer LAB pursued a completely new material: carbon composite. The goal was to create a hairspring that wasn't just resistant to external forces, but virtually immune to them. The path was arduous. As recounted by Emmanuel Dupas, TAG Heuer's technical director, the process involved years of hypotheses, development, and testing, with numerous setbacks that required immense resilience to overcome. The final result is a component that represents a new paradigm in mechanical precision.



The material benefits of the TH-Carbonspring are threefold and directly impact the watch's daily performance. Firstly, it is completely amagnetic. In an environment saturated with magnetic fields from smartphones, laptops, and speakers, this property ensures that the watch's regulating organ remains unaffected, maintaining its chronometric stability without deviation. This eliminates one of the most common causes of inaccuracy in modern mechanical timepieces, providing a level of reliability previously unattainable with traditional materials.



Secondly, the carbon hairspring boasts exceptional shock resistance. Everyday occurrences, from a sudden jolt to the simple act of clapping, can send micro-shocks through a watch movement that disturb the delicate oscillations of the balance spring, leading to a loss of accuracy. The inherent properties of the carbon composite material developed by TAG Heuer allow it to absorb and dissipate these impacts far more effectively than its metal or silicon counterparts, safeguarding the movement's precise rhythm.



Thirdly, the lightweight nature of carbon provides a distinct advantage in chronometry. A lighter hairspring has less inertia, which allows the regulating organ to oscillate more consistently and isochronously, meaning each swing of the balance takes the same amount of time, regardless of the watch's position or the mainspring's remaining power. This contributes directly to a higher and more stable level of precision over the watch's entire power reserve, a critical factor for a COSC-certified chronometer.



The development and production of the TH-Carbonspring is a testament to TAG Heuer's commitment to vertical integration and innovation. The entire process, from initial concept to final industrialization, was handled in-house. This comprehensive control allowed the team to refine the manufacturing process over six demanding years, ensuring the final product met the company's stringent standards for durability and performance, backed by a five-year warranty. TAG Heuer has filed four patents related to this technology, securing its position at the forefront of this new chapter in watchmaking.



Visually, the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring is a study in advanced materials and stealth aesthetics. The entire architecture of the watch is crafted from carbon, creating a cohesive and purposeful design. The 39mm square case is forged from this high-tech composite, resulting in a unique, marbled appearance where layers of carbon are visible, ensuring no two watches are exactly alike. This material is not just for show; its lightweight properties make the watch incredibly comfortable on the wrist despite its substantial presence.



The case maintains the iconic Monaco shape, with its sharp angles and beveled edges, but the forged carbon construction gives it a modern, almost organic texture. The crown at 3 o'clock and the signature chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock are also fashioned from forged carbon, seamlessly integrating into the case design. This full-carbon approach extends the watch's performance-oriented ethos from its internal mechanics to its external shell.



The dial is perhaps the most striking element, serving as a visual representation of the technology within. It is also made of forged carbon, but features a unique spiral pattern that echoes the coiled shape of the hairspring it protects. This subtle but meaningful detail connects the external design directly to the internal innovation. The deep black canvas provides a dramatic backdrop for the chronograph functions, enhancing both depth and legibility.



The dial layout features two square-shaped subdials, a signature of the Monaco design. At 3 o'clock is the 30-minute counter, and at 9 o'clock is the 12-hour counter. These registers are rendered in a deep black opaline finish and are framed by black gold chapter rings, adding a touch of refinement to the otherwise utilitarian aesthetic. The hands within the subdials are coated in white Super-LumiNova® for clear reading in low-light conditions.



Legibility is paramount in a chronograph, and TAG Heuer has ensured it through high-contrast design choices. The main hour and minute hands are plated in black gold and generously filled with white Super-LumiNova®, standing out sharply against the dark carbon dial. The central chronograph hand is finished in white, making it easy to track elapsed seconds at a glance. Applied indexes, also crafted from black carbon, mark the hours, completing the watch's technical and cohesive look.



Powering this innovative timepiece is the in-house Calibre TH20-60. This automatic movement is a COSC-certified chronometer, guaranteeing a high standard of accuracy. It features a robust power reserve of 80 hours, allowing the watch to run for more than three days without needing to be wound or worn. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), a modern standard that contributes to its precision.



A key feature of the Calibre TH20-60 is its flyback chronograph complication. This function, originally developed for pilots, allows the wearer to reset and restart the chronograph with a single push of the 4 o'clock button, rather than the three pushes (stop, reset, start) required by a standard chronograph. This enables the quick and precise timing of successive events, a feature that aligns perfectly with the Monaco's racing heritage and performance-driven identity.



Turning the watch over reveals a square sapphire caseback, offering a view of the intricate Calibre TH20-60. The movement is finished with a custom rotor and features special engraving denoting its limited-edition status. Seeing the mechanics at work provides a deeper appreciation for the engineering inside, bridging the gap between the futuristic case material and the traditional craft of mechanical watchmaking.



The watch is secured to the wrist by a black rubber strap that has been embossed with a textile-like pattern, giving it a fabric appearance while retaining the durability and comfort of rubber. It is fitted with a folding clasp made from black DLC-coated grade-2 titanium, a material choice that complements the lightweight and durable nature of the carbon case. This integrated design ensures the watch feels balanced and secure during any activity.



The launch of the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring at Geneva Watch Days 2025 is a clear statement of intent from TAG Heuer. It aligns with the brand's "Designed to Win" campaign, showcasing a product born from resilience, innovation, and an unwillingness to compromise. This watch is not an isolated experiment but the first step in a new direction, with the promise that the technologies developed will eventually influence a broader range of high-performance watches in the TAG Heuer collection.



As a highly exclusive offering, the TAG Heuer Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring is limited to just 50 numbered pieces worldwide. This scarcity, combined with its groundbreaking technology and unique aesthetics, positions it as a significant piece for collectors and enthusiasts of avant-garde watchmaking. The watch is priced at $17,900.00 and is slated for availability in December 2025, marking the arrival of a new era in mechanical precision.



Case: 39mm black forged carbon case; 14.1mm thickness; 47.4mm lug-to-lug; 22mm lug distance; Beveled, domed sapphire crystal; Forged black carbon crown and pushers; Square sapphire caseback; 100 meters water resistance.

Movement: In-house Calibre TH20-60; Automatic with flyback chronograph function; COSC-certified; 80-hour power reserve; 28'800 (4 Hz) frequency; 33 jewels; Features the exclusive TH-Carbonspring oscillator.

Dial: Black forged carbon with a spiral-shaped engraving; Applied black carbon indexes; Black gold hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®; Black opaline chronograph counters for minutes and hours; White central chronograph hand.

Strap: Black rubber strap with textile embossing and black stitching; Black DLC grade-2 titanium folding clasp with push-buttons.

Price: $17,900.00

Reference Number: CBL5190.FT6313

Notes: Limited to 50 numbered pieces. The watch's key innovation is the TH-Carbonspring, a patented carbon composite hairspring developed over a decade by the TAG Heuer LAB, offering superior resistance to magnetism and shocks.