The year 2026 begins with a significant update to the OMEGA catalog, specifically within the Speedmaster family. The brand has introduced two new iterations of the Moonwatch Professional that feature a reversed dial configuration. These new models adhere to the established architecture of the classic chronograph but introduce a high-contrast aesthetic often referred to in collector circles as a "reverse panda" dial. This release encompasses two distinct variations based on case material, offering the new look in both traditional stainless steel and the proprietary 18K Moonshine Gold.
The primary focal point of these new releases is undoubtedly the dial construction. OMEGA has utilized a double-plate approach to achieve the distinct stepping effect that enthusiasts of the model often look for. The main dial surface is a deep, polished black. This upper plate is finished with a varnish and lacquer treatment that provides a noticeable sheen, catching the light in a way that emphasizes the depth of the black tone. This glossy finish serves as a stark background for the contrasting elements that give the watch its primary character.
Courtesy of Omega
Beneath this black upper layer lies the secondary plate, which is responsible for the subdial visuals. The three registers—the small seconds, the 30-minute recorder, and the 12-hour recorder—are rendered in white. Like the main dial, these white areas have received a varnished and lacquered finish. This matching of textures ensures that while the colors contrast heavily, the quality of light reflection remains consistent across the entire face of the watch. The transition from the black main dial to the white subdials creates a sharp visual break that aids in the immediate reading of elapsed time.
Surrounding the white interiors of the subdials are rhodium-plated frames on the steel model, which add a subtle metallic ring that defines the boundary between the two colors. The minute tracks within these subdials are transferred in black, ensuring that the precision of the reading is not lost against the bright white background. This inversion of the standard Moonwatch dial—which typically features white ink on a black background—provides a fresh perspective on a design that has remained largely unchanged for decades.
Legibility is further managed through the main minute track, which runs along the periphery of the step dial. Here, the markings are transferred in white, standing out clearly against the black lacquer. The overall effect is one of rigorous utility; the high contrast between black and white was originally born from the needs of racing drivers and pilots who needed to glance at their wrists and register information in a fraction of a second. This new release channels that functional history while applying modern manufacturing techniques to the finish.
Framing this high-contrast dial is the familiar tachymeter bezel, a staple of the Speedmaster identity. The bezel insert is crafted from black ceramic, a material chosen for its extreme hardness and resistance to scratching. The tachymeter scale itself is filled with white enamel. This use of enamel ensures that the numerals and markings will not fade or discolor over time, maintaining the bright white appearance indefinitely. Notably, the bezel features the "Dot Over 90" detail, a nod to pre-1970 references that has become a requisite feature for modern reinterpretations of the Moonwatch.
Courtesy of Omega
Protecting the dial is a box-form sapphire crystal. This crystal shape mimics the profile of the Hesalite crystals found on vintage models, rising above the bezel to add vertical bulk and vintage charm to the silhouette. However, because it is sapphire, it offers modern scratch resistance. OMEGA has applied an anti-reflective treatment to the inner surface of the crystal. This is a crucial practical addition, as it prevents glare from obscuring the dial, particularly given the glossy nature of the lacquered black surface.
The case architecture remains faithful to the 4th generation Speedmaster style, measuring 42 mm in diameter. The case features the signature twisted "lyre" lugs that curve inward, creating a complex interplay of surfaces. The finishing on the case is a mixture of brushed and polished techniques. The sides of the case are brushed horizontally, while the upper bevels of the lugs are polished, creating a ribbon of light that runs from the bezel down to the bracelet. This combination of finishes helps to break up the visual mass of the watch and highlights the geometric complexity of the case design.
The stainless steel version of this release, reference 310.30.42.50.01.004, is built from 316L steel. This alloy is the industry standard for luxury sports watches due to its balance of strength, corrosion resistance, and ability to take a high polish. On this model, the hands and applied hour markers are rhodium-plated. This plating gives them a brilliant silver tone that matches the steel case and provides a clean, monochromatic look against the black and white dial. The hands and markers are filled with white Super-LumiNova, which appears white in daylight and glows green in low-light conditions.
For those seeking a heavier and more precious iteration, OMEGA has also released the watch in 18K Moonshine Gold, reference 310.60.42.50.01.002. Moonshine Gold is a proprietary alloy developed by the brand. It is a yellow gold alloy, but it contains palladium and copper in specific ratios to create a paler, softer hue than traditional yellow gold. It is designed to resist the fading of color and luster that can occur with standard gold alloys over long periods. The visual impact of the gold model is significantly warmer, with the pale yellow metal offering a softer contrast to the stark black and white dial compared to the cold brightness of the steel version.
Courtesy of Omega
On the Moonshine Gold model, the dial furniture is updated to match the case. The hour and minute hands, the subdial hands, and the applied hour markers are all crafted from solid 18K Moonshine Gold. The central chronograph seconds hand is PVD-coated in Moonshine Gold. This continuity of material creates a luxurious aesthetic where the gold elements seem to float above the black lacquer. Despite the change in material, legibility is maintained through the use of the same white Super-LumiNova found on the steel model.
The bracelet on both models follows the classic five-link Moonwatch design. It features a row of small intermediate links flanked by larger outer and center links. The brushing and polishing pattern on the bracelet mirrors the case, with the outer links brushed and the smaller intermediate links polished. The bracelet tapers from the lugs down to the clasp, providing a secure and comfortable fit. The design is flexible, allowing it to drape well around the wrist without standing stiffly away from the skin.
A significant functional update to these bracelets is the inclusion of OMEGA's patented comfort release adjustment system. Located within the foldover clasp, this mechanism allows the wearer to make fine adjustments to the bracelet length without the need for tools. This is particularly useful as the wrist expands and contracts throughout the day due to temperature and humidity changes. The clasp itself is finished with the OMEGA logo and features a twin-trigger release for security.
Flipping the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal caseback, offering an unobstructed view of the movement. The text surrounding the crystal indicates the model name and key specifications, including the "Moonwatch" designation and the water resistance rating of 5 bar (50 meters). While 50 meters is not a dive-watch rating, it is sufficient for a chronograph of this nature, protecting the movement from splashes, rain, and surface swimming, provided the pushers are not operated underwater.
The engine powering these timepieces is the Calibre 3861. This is a manual-winding chronograph movement that represents the modern evolution of the historic Calibre 321 and 861/1861 lineages. The 3861 retains the architectural beauty of its predecessors but has been heavily upgraded with modern materials and technology. It beats at a frequency of 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations per hour), a slower beat rate that is traditional for the Speedmaster and contributes to the longevity of the components.
Courtesy of Omega
The Calibre 3861 is a Master Chronometer, a certification that goes beyond the standard COSC chronometer rating. To achieve this, the movement—and the fully assembled watch—must pass a series of tests approved by METAS (the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology). The most notable of these tests involves magnetic resistance. The use of a silicon balance spring and non-ferrous materials allows the 3861 to withstand magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. In a modern environment filled with smartphones, laptops, and magnetic clasps, this resistance ensures the watch maintains its accuracy where older mechanical watches might become magnetized and run fast.
Visually, the movement is finished to a high standard. The bridges and mainplate are rhodium-plated and decorated with straight Geneva waves that radiate outward. The screws are polished, and the engravings are filled with gold, adding a touch of color to the silver-toned mechanism. The cam-actuated chronograph mechanism is visible, allowing the owner to observe the engagement of the gears when the start, stop, and reset pushers are pressed.
The power reserve of the Calibre 3861 is 50 hours. Since this is a manual-wind watch, the user must wind the crown periodically to keep it running. For many enthusiasts, this daily ritual of winding the watch is a key part of the ownership experience, connecting them physically to the mechanics of the timekeeper. The winding action is smooth, and the movement features a stop-seconds (hacking) function, allowing the time to be set precisely to the second.
The weight difference between the two models is substantial and significantly affects the wearing experience. The stainless steel model weighs approximately 142 grams. This is a balanced weight that provides a sense of solidity without being overly burdensome for daily wear. It sits comfortably on the wrist, with the weight distributed evenly between the watch head and the bracelet.
Courtesy of Omega
In contrast, the Moonshine Gold version is much heavier, weighing in at approximately 224 grams. The density of gold gives the watch a distinct heft that is often associated with luxury. Wearing a solid gold watch provides a constant reminder of its presence on the wrist. Despite the extra weight, the ergonomic design of the case and the flexibility of the bracelet help to mitigate any discomfort, ensuring that the watch remains stable and centered on the arm.
Pricing and availability for these new Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Reverse Panda models reflect their respective materials and positioning within the market. The stainless steel reference 310.30.42.50.01.004 is priced at $10,400. This places it at a premium compared to the standard black-dial Moonwatch, justified by the more complex lacquered dial construction. The 18K Moonshine Gold reference 310.60.42.50.01.002 commands a significantly higher price of $49,300, consistent with the value of the precious metal and the specialized manufacturing required for the gold alloy. Both models are available now through authorized retailers and boutiques.
Case: 42mm diameter, 20mm lug width, approximately 47.5mm lug-to-lug, approximately 13.6mm thickness. Available in Stainless Steel (approx 142g) or 18K Moonshine Gold (approx 224g). Brushed and polished finishes with twisted lyre lugs. Box-form scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. Sapphire crystal display caseback. Black ceramic bezel ring with white enamel tachymeter scale featuring "Dot Over 90". Water resistant to 5 bar (50 meters).
Movement: OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. Manual-winding mechanical chronograph. 50-hour power reserve. Frequency 3 Hz (21,600 vph). METAS certified Master Chronometer. Resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. Free-sprung balance with silicon balance spring. Rhodium-plated finish with straight Geneva waves.
Dial: Reverse Panda configuration. Black varnished and lacquered main plate with white varnished and lacquered subdials. Double plate step dial construction. Rhodium-plated subdial frames, hands, and markers (Steel model) or 18K Moonshine Gold hands and markers (Gold model). White Super-LumiNova treatment.
Strap: Matching polished-brushed bracelet in Stainless Steel or 18K Moonshine Gold. Five-link design. Foldover clasp with patented comfort release adjustment system.
Price: $10,400 (Steel) / $49,300 (Gold)
Reference Number: 310.30.42.50.01.004 (Steel) / 310.60.42.50.01.002 (Gold)
Notes: First major reverse panda dial release for the modern 3861 generation. The dial uses a glossy lacquer finish for both black and white sections to maximize contrast.