NOMOS Tangente gold neomatik

NOMOS Glashütte, a watchmaker that rose from the ashes of a divided Germany, has built an unshakable identity around understatement, mechanical ingenuity, and a design purity that leans heavily on the Bauhaus school of thought. The brand's creations have, for decades, been the benchmark for high-quality, accessible German watchmaking, almost always presented in stainless steel. Now, the brand is re-contextualizing its most famous design, the Tangente, by encasing it in 18-karat gold. This move introduces the Tangente gold neomatik, a trio of watches that pose a compelling question: can a watch be both a precious luxury object and a modern, minimalist tool? The answer, it seems, is a definitive yes. This release isn't about creating a status symbol; it's an exercise in elevating a proven, purist design with a material that shares its sense of permanence.



To understand the weight of this new release, one must first understand NOMOS itself. The company was founded by Roland Schwertner in January 1990, a mere two months after the fall of the Berlin Wall. In the historic watchmaking town of Glashütte, Saxony—a place left dormant by decades of state-controlled industry—Schwertner saw an opportunity to resurrect the spirit of German horology. The town itself is the cradle of German watchmaking, with roots tracing back to 1845. While other historic names were being revived, NOMOS was built from scratch, infused with a new, modern energy. The first collection, which included the Tangente, Orion, Ludwig, and Tetra, debuted in 1992 and was an immediate declaration of the brand's design intent: clean, functional, and devoid of all excess.



This design language is no accident. It is a direct descendant of the Deutscher Werkbund and the Bauhaus movement, where the guiding principle was "form follows function." The brand's design studio, Berlinerblau, operates from Berlin, channeling a modern, urban sensibility into the traditional craftsmanship happening in Glashütte. For years, the brand relied on modified Swiss movements, but in 2005, it achieved a major milestone by producing its first in-house caliber. The true breakthrough, however, came in 2014 with the announcement of the NOMOS swing system—an in-house-developed and manufactured escapement, the very heart of the watch. This component, which even most of the largest Swiss brands buy from third parties, established NOMOS as a true, vertically integrated "manufacture" and a serious technical powerhouse.



The Tangente has been the brand's standard-bearer since day one. It is, for many, the quintessential NOMOS watch. Its visual signature is unmistakable: a perfectly round case, sharp angular lugs, a clean and expansive dial, and a typography set that feels both intellectual and industrial. It has won numerous design awards and has remained the company's bestseller because its design is so fundamentally sound. It is a watch of proportions and legibility, where nothing is superfluous. Presenting this specific design in solid 18-karat gold is a significant statement. It challenges the long-held notion that gold watches must be ornate, heavy, or traditional. Here, the gold is used not for flash, but for its inherent warmth and value, adding a new layer of character to a familiar shape.



The case of the new Tangente gold neomatik is a study in purposeful proportion. It measures 35 millimeters in diameter, a size that might seem small by modern standards but is a classic dimension for a dress watch. On the wrist, however, the Tangente's design DNA makes it "wear" much larger than its specifications suggest. This is due to the non-existent bezel and the vast, open dial, which extends nearly to the edge of the case. The 43-millimeter lug-to-lug measurement ensures it has a confident stance, while the 18-millimeter lug width maintains its slender, balanced profile. The gold itself is 18-karat 3N yellow gold, polished to a high shine on all surfaces, catching the light from the flat planes of the lugs to the smooth, rounded case band.



Perhaps the most impressive specification is the watch's height. At a mere 6.9 millimeters thick, this is an incredibly slender timepiece. This thin profile is the watch's secret weapon, allowing it to function as the ultimate dress piece, sliding effortlessly beneath a shirt cuff without a hint of friction. This is not just a design choice but a technical achievement, one made possible entirely by the movement housed within. It’s a physical representation of the brand’s ability to merge sophisticated mechanics with practical, wearable design. The watch is rated for 3 atmospheres of water resistance, making it splash-proof and perfectly suitable for daily wear, though it is clearly not intended for swimming.



Turning the watch over reveals a large sapphire crystal caseback, offering an expansive view of the in-house caliber DUW 3001. This movement is the engine that allows the Tangente gold neomatik to be so thin. Launched in 2015, the DUW 3001 is an ultra-thin automatic movement, measuring only 3.2 millimeters in height. The "DUW" designation stands for "Deutsche Uhrenwerke," a name NOMOS reserves for its calibers that feature the proprietary NOMOS swing system. This escapement, visible oscillating beneath the balance bridge, is a testament to the brand's independence and technical prowess, ensuring high accuracy and reliability. The movement is not just technically impressive; it is also finished to the high standards of Glashütte watchmaking.



The view through the caseback is a landscape of German watchmaking hallmarks. The most prominent feature is the three-quarter plate, a characteristic of Glashütte movements, which is adorned with Glashütte ribbing (a German equivalent of Côtes de Genève stripes). The base plate beneath is decorated with perlage, or circular graining, and the screws have been heat-treated to a vibrant, tempered blue. The bidirectional winding rotor, which spins to power the mainspring, is skeletonized to provide a clearer view of the 37-jewel movement beneath it. It operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides a very practical power reserve of up to 43 hours when fully wound.



This new gold Tangente is not a single watch, but a collection of three distinct personalities, defined by their dials. The first, reference 161, is perhaps the most classic expression. It features a galvanized, white silver-plated dial that provides a bright, slightly metallic backdrop. Paired with this dial are the signature Tangente hands, which are crafted from steel and then tempered by heating them to 290°C. This traditional process results in a deep, iridescent cornflower blue that flashes brightly when it catches the light. This contrast, along with the crisp black typography of the Arabic numerals, makes for exceptionally clear time-telling. This model is paired with a remborde-style black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap, completing its formal, high-contrast look.



The second version, reference 162, is the Tangente gold neomatik doré. The name "doré," French for "golden," perfectly captures its character. It shares the same galvanized, white silver-plated dial as the first model, but it swaps the blued steel hands for a set of delicate, polished gold hands. This change is subtle but transformative. The gold-on-white palette creates a much warmer, more harmonious and monochromatic look. It’s less stark than its blue-handed sibling and leans into the inherent warmth of the 18-karat gold case. This model is appropriately fitted with a rich, warm brown Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap, complementing the golden tones of the hands and case perfectly.



The third and most distinctive model is the reference 163, the Tangente gold neomatik ruthenium. This version offers a striking departure from the bright dials of the other two. The dial is galvanized and then plated with ruthenium, an elemental metal from the platinum group, resulting in a deep, dark, charcoal-gray hue that borders on black. Against this dark, moody backdrop, the polished gold hands and the printed gold-colored minute track seem to glow with an internal warmth. The contrast between the cool, dark dial and the radiant 18-karat gold case creates a powerful visual dynamic. This model is paired with a black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap, which serves to emphasize the dramatic dial and the preciousness of the case.



The dials on all three models share the same fundamental architecture. The typography is a hallmark of the Tangente, with its clean, sans-serif Arabic numerals at 12, 2, 4, 8, and 10, separated by simple black stick markers. At the 6 o'clock position, a recessed small seconds sub-dial resides, featuring a fine, circular-grained or "snailed" texture that provides a subtle contrast to the main dial's smooth, silver-plated or ruthenium finish. This sub-dial, with its own delicate hand, adds a layer of mechanical life to the minimalist display. The dials are all protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inner side, which helps reduce glare and maintain the high legibility that is central to the watch's design.



The straps on all three watches are made from Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan, a material NOMOS has favored for years. This specific leather, which comes from a small section of a horse's hide, is renowned for its density, durability, and smooth, non-porous finish that develops a unique patina over time. The straps are crafted in a "remborde" style, meaning the edges are seamlessly rolled and stitched. More importantly, to match the precious-metal case, the Tangente gold neomatik models come equipped with a pin buckle that is also crafted from solid 18-karat gold, ensuring every part of the watch's presentation is consistent and high-quality.



The brand's philosophy extends beyond just the watch's design and into its sourcing. NOMOS states that the gold used to craft these cases has been certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council Chain of Custody. This certification is a significant detail, indicating that the sourcing of the precious metal adheres to strict ethical and environmental standards. For a brand that emphasizes lasting values, this commitment to responsible sourcing is a critical part of the watch's story. It aligns with the statement from NOMOS CEO Uwe Ahrendt, who noted, "We are not in the business of making status symbols, but rather valuables for a lifetime." This certification gives weight to that claim, ensuring the "value" is not just material, but ethical.



While the Tangente gold neomatik trio is the headline act, NOMOS has also simultaneously released two other gold timepieces for those with more traditional tastes. These are the Ludwig gold and Ludwig gold doré. The Ludwig, another of the brand's original four models, is differentiated by its use of classic Roman numerals and a "railroad" track for the minutes, giving it a more old-world feel. These 18-karat gold models, available with either tempered blue or golden hands, are powered by a different movement: the hand-wound NOMOS caliber DUW 4001. This manually-wound caliber, which also features the NOMOS swing system, is a fitting choice for the more traditional Ludwig, requiring the daily interaction of winding the crown.



The presentation of these new gold timepieces is also a step above the brand's standard offering. Each Tangente gold neomatik is delivered in an elegant leather wallet. This black, full-grain leather case is described as wonderfully soft and is designed to protect the watch, serving as an ideal companion for travel. It's a thoughtful touch that elevates the entire ownership experience, moving away from a simple box and providing a useful, high-quality accessory that complements the watch itself. This practical-yet-refined approach to "packaging" feels perfectly aligned with the NOMOS ethos.



The introduction of a gold watch can be a tricky proposition for a brand built on minimalism and accessibility. It risks alienating a core fanbase or appearing to chase a different, more mainstream luxury-market-share. However, NOMOS has navigated this move with characteristic intelligence. By choosing the Tangente, their most iconic and purist design, they have made the watch's form the hero, with the gold acting as a new, warmer canvas rather than the sole point of the watch. The 35-millimeter size and ultra-thin 6.9-millimeter profile keep it discreet, a personal pleasure for the wearer rather than a loud statement for the room. It retains its Bauhaus soul completely.



The decision to offer three distinct versions right out of the gate is also a smart one, as it demonstrates the versatility of the gold case. The blue-handed model (Ref. 161) is the "classic" Tangente, now in a more precious form. The "doré" model (Ref. 162) offers a soft, harmonious warmth that feels cohesive and gentle. The ruthenium-dialed version (Ref. 163) is the bold, modern, and high-contrast option, proving that a gold watch can be dark and dramatic. Each one, while sharing the same case and movement, offers a completely different wearing experience, allowing the customer to choose their own expression of this new golden-era Tangente.



These watches represent an evolution for NOMOS, a maturation of their most celebrated design. It shows the brand is confident enough in its core identity to explore materials typically associated with a very different, more opulent style of watchmaking. The Tangente gold neomatik proves that a gold watch doesn't have to be loud. It can be quiet, considered, technically proficient, and thoroughly modern. It is a watch for someone who appreciates the internal value of fine mechanics and responsible sourcing just as much as the external value of a precious metal.



Regarding pricing and availability, the NOMOS Tangente gold neomatik is positioned as a new peak in the brand's core collection. All three versions—the white dial with blued hands (Ref. 161), the white dial with gold hands (Ref. 162), and the ruthenium dial with gold hands (Ref. 163)—are priced at USD 13,000. The watches are available directly from NOMOS Glashütte and through their network of authorized retailers. This price point reflects the solid 18-karat gold case, the solid gold buckle, and the truly in-house, high-performance DUW 3001 automatic movement, placing these models in a new and more rarefied category for the German watchmaker.



Tangente gold neomatik (Ref. 161)



Case: 18 kt 3N gold. Diameter 35.0 mm, height 6.9 mm, lug-to-lug 43.0 mm. Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on inner side; sapphire crystal glass back. Water resistance 3 atm (splash-proof).

Movement: DUW 3001 in-house automatic caliber. 3.2 mm height, 28.8 mm diameter. Power reserve up to 43 hours. 37 jewels. Features bidirectional rotor and NOMOS swing system.

Dial: Galvanized, white silver-plated. Hands are steel, tempered blue.

Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, remborde. Lug width 18 mm. Solid 18 kt gold clasp.

Price: USD 13,000

Reference Number: 161

Notes: This version presents the classic Tangente look with traditional tempered blue hands. The ultra-thin 6.9 mm profile is achieved with the 3.2 mm thin DUW 3001 movement.





Tangente gold neomatik doré (Ref. 162)



Case: 18 kt 3N gold. Diameter 35.0 mm, height 6.9 mm, lug-to-lug 43.0 mm. Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on inner side; sapphire crystal glass back. Water resistance 3 atm (splash-proof).

Movement: DUW 3001 in-house automatic caliber. 3.2 mm height, 28.8 mm diameter. Power reserve up to 43 hours. 37 jewels. Features bidirectional rotor and NOMOS swing system.

Dial: Galvanized, white silver-plated. Hands are in gold.

Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan brown, remborde. Lug width 18 mm. Solid 18 kt gold clasp.

Price: USD 13,000

Reference Number: 162

Notes: This "doré" (golden) version creates a warm, harmonious aesthetic by matching the gold hands to the 18 kt gold case. The brown strap enhances this warm tone.





Tangente gold neomatik ruthenium (Ref. 163)



Case: 18 kt 3N gold. Diameter 35.0 mm, height 6.9 mm, lug-to-lug 43.0 mm. Sapphire crystal glass with anti-reflective coating on inner side; sapphire crystal glass back. Water resistance 3 atm (splash-proof).

Movement: DUW 3001 in-house automatic caliber. 3.2 mm height, 28.8 mm diameter. Power reserve up to 43 hours. 37 jewels. Features bidirectional rotor and NOMOS swing system.

Dial: Galvanized, ruthenium-plated (deep gray/black). Hands are in gold.

Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black, remborde. Lug width 18 mm. Solid 18 kt gold clasp.

Price: USD 13,000

Reference Number: 163

Notes: This model offers a striking, modern contrast with its deep black/gray ruthenium-plated dial, which highlights the warmth of the gold case and hands.