NOMOS Metro 38 date

In the small, protected town of Glashütte, Germany, a particular standard of watchmaking has been cultivated for generations. This isn't just a location; it's a designation of origin, a protected seal of quality that guarantees a significant portion of a watch's value is created locally. It is within this crucible of traditional precision that Nomos Glashütte operates, acting as a standard-bearer for German watchmaking. The brand has managed to carve out a distinct identity by merging the exacting standards of Glashütte craftsmanship with a design language rooted in German modernism, specifically the principles of the Deutscher Werkbund.



The Deutscher Werkbund, a precursor to the more famous Bauhaus school, was an association of artists, architects, and designers. Its core idea was to blend quality mass production with traditional craft, creating functional, well-designed objects for a modern era. This philosophy is the lifeblood of NOMOS. The brand's timepieces are not ornate status symbols in the traditional Swiss sense; they are instruments of precision defined by reduction, legibility, and a clear, functionalist aesthetic. This approach has earned the company numerous design awards and a dedicated following among those who appreciate minimalist design and in-house mechanical engineering.



Within the NOMOS catalog, the Metro collection, first introduced in 2014, represents one of the brand's most distinct and urban-focused designs. Conceived by Berlin-based product designer Mark Braun, the Metro line was an immediate success, lauded for its avant-garde dial and its role in introducing the brand's own in-house escapement. It captured a youthful, metropolitan spirit, distinct from the more austere, Bauhaus-direct lines of models like the Tangente. The Metro was, and is, a watch for city-dwellers, for creatives, for those who appreciate design that is both playful and serious.



Recently, NOMOS has revisited one of the most popular variations of this line, reintroducing the Metro 38 date. This model, bearing the reference 1102, retains the exact external design that made it a classic, a testament to the idea that the design was already "perfect as it is." The update is not one of aesthetics, but of internal substance. This commitment to "inner development," as the brand calls it, is central to the NOMOS philosophy. Rather than chasing trends with new colors or cases, the company focuses on constantly optimizing the fine mechanical calibers that power its watches.



The most significant update to the Metro 38 date is the introduction of the new hand-wound caliber, the DUW 4601. This movement is a product of the brand's own engineering and manufacturing prowess, a clear statement of its independence as a watchmaker. This new caliber brings tangible benefits, including an increased power reserve that now extends to 52 hours, offering more than two full days of operation on a single wind. It also incorporates a convenient quick-set date function, a practical feature that enhances the watch's daily usability, removing the tedious need to cycle the hands a full 24 hours to advance the date.



At the heart of the DUW 4601, and indeed at the heart of NOMOS's identity as a true manufacture, is the NOMOS swing system. This is the brand's proprietary, in-house escapement. The escapement—which consists of the balance, balance spring, pallet fork, and escape wheel—is the tiny, complex regulating organ of a mechanical watch. It is what "ticks," portioning out time into a steady beat. For the vast majority of the watch industry, even for many historic and high-end brands, this crucial set of components is sourced from a single, massive Swiss conglomerate. To design, develop, and manufacture an escapement system in-house is an enormous technical and financial undertaking. NOMOS achieving this feat, especially at its price point, is a profound declaration of horological independence and technical mastery.



Visually, the Metro 38 date is a study in balanced modernism. The dial is a broad, spacious expanse of galvanized, white silver-plating. This surface provides a clean, neutral canvas for the watch's unique time-telling elements. Legibility is paramount. The primary time is marked by thin, oxidized black hands that taper to extremely fine, stepped tips. Designer Mark Braun has noted this design is reminiscent of the gradation of New York's Empire State Building, a subtle nod to the watch's urban inspiration. The hands are sharp and precise, pointing clearly to the minute track that circles the dial's periphery.



This minute track is where the Metro's unique character truly shines. Instead of traditional hour batons or numerals, the dial primarily features a ring of minute markers. Small, crisp black dots mark the individual minutes, while larger Arabic numerals denote five-minute intervals (05, 10, 15, and so on). The hours themselves are indicated by larger, circular dots. Most of these hour dots are black, but three—at 12, 3, and 9 o'clock—are rendered in a subtle, muted blue-gray. This asymmetrical touch of color adds a dynamic, contemporary feel to the dial without compromising its clean aesthetic.



Further color is introduced in the small seconds sub-dial, located just above the 6 o'clock position. This recessed circular display features simple black crosshairs and markers, but it is animated by a needle-thin seconds hand painted in a vibrant, striking red. This pop of color is the most playful element on the dial, a small but powerful accent that draws the eye and gives the watch a jolt of energy. It's a confident design choice that breaks the monochrome palette and underscores the watch's modern sensibilities.



Directly below the small seconds sub-dial sits the watch's namesake feature: the date. This is not a small, squeezed-in aperture. Consistent with NOMOS design principles, the date window at 6 o'clock is extra-large, providing exceptional legibility. The numerals are crisp, black, and perfectly framed. The ability to place such a large window so far out toward the edge of the dial is a direct result of the movement's architecture. The DUW 4601 utilizes a date ring that is placed around the movement, rather than a smaller date wheel sitting on top of it. This clever construction allows for a larger, more prominent, and more aesthetically pleasing date display.



The case of the Metro 38 date is crafted from high-quality stainless steel, polished to a bright finish. Its dimensions are a key part of its appeal. At 38.5 millimeters in diameter, it hits a "sweet spot" size that is suitable for a wide variety of wrists, large or small. It is large enough to have a modern presence but moderate enough to remain understated. The lug-to-lug measurement, a critical factor for on-wrist comfort, is a very wearable 45.3 millimeters. This compact span is achieved thanks to the watch's signature "wire" lugs, which are sleek, slender, and drop down sharply from the case, allowing the strap to articulate cleanly.



Perhaps the most impressive dimension is the watch's height. At just 7.8 millimeters thick, the Metro 38 date is exceptionally slim. This thin profile is a direct benefit of the hand-wound DUW 4601 movement, which itself measures only 2.8 millimeters high. The slender case slides easily under a shirt cuff, making it a comfortable companion for daily wear. The case is topped by a domed sapphire crystal, which adds a slight, pleasing distortion at the dial's edge and contributes to the watch's soft, rounded silhouette.



A standout detail of the case is the crown. Where many minimalist watches opt for a simple, unadorned crown, the Metro features a crown with an intricate, beaded pattern. This delicate diamond knurling is a tactile delight, providing an excellent grip for winding the watch and setting the time. Mark Braun compares its precision feel to that of a fine watchmaker's tool. It's a small element, but it demonstrates a level of consideration that extends to every part of the watch's design and user interaction.



Turning the watch over reveals a second, flat sapphire crystal, which serves as an exhibition caseback. This window offers an unobstructed view of the DUW 4601 caliber within. The view is a testament to German watchmaking tradition. The movement is dominated by the characteristic Glashütte three-quarter plate, a large plate that covers most of the movement's gear train, enhancing its stability. This plate is decorated with Glashütte ribbing (a German equivalent of Côtes de Genève stripes) and engraved with the caliber and brand name.



The observer can also see the meticulous finishing that NOMOS applies to its movements. The ratchet wheel, which is part of the winding mechanism, is finished with a radiating sunburst pattern. The base plate, visible beneath the balance wheel, is decorated with perlage, or circular graining. Most striking, however, are the heat-blued screws. These screws are not chemically dyed but are tempered by hand over a flame to achieve a deep, iridescent cornflower blue, a traditional watchmaking technique that adds both beauty and corrosion resistance.



The watch is secured to the wrist by a black strap made from Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan. This specific leather, sourced from a renowned tannery in Chicago, is one of the finest in the world. It is known for being incredibly thick, smooth, and almost indestructible, with a unique ability to develop a rich patina over time rather than wearing out. The 19-millimeter strap is equipped with quick-change spring bars, allowing the owner to easily swap straps without the need for a special tool, adding a layer of practical versatility.



Mark Braun, the designer behind the Metro, is a professor of product design in addition to running his Berlin studio. He has been collaborating with NOMOS since 2012. He views a mechanical watch as more than just a time-teller, but as a "public statement of values." In an age of disposable electronics, he sees the choice to wear a mechanical watch as a conscious decision to take responsibility for an object's value and longevity. It is an appreciation for mechanics, for expertise made visible.



This perspective perfectly aligns with the NOMOS brand. The company's watches are not about fleeting fashion. They are built on a foundation of in-house engineering and a consistent design language that honors the principles of the Deutscher Werkbund. The watches are meant to be reliable, legible, and durable—tools that are also objects of considered design. This commitment to quality and functionalism has resulted in NOMOS receiving numerous awards for its outstanding aesthetics and technical innovations.



The Metro 38 date is delivered in a high-quality NOMOS watch case. Unlike the typical leather-covered box, this one is crafted from black poplar wood, offering a sturdy and attractive way to store the watch and its warranty card. It's a final touch that reinforces the brand's commitment to quality materials and thoughtful design, extending from the watch itself to the very packaging it arrives in.



This model is positioned as a core part of the NOMOS collection. The Metro 38 date (Ref. 1102) is available through NOMOS Glashütte's authorized dealers and its own online store. The watch is priced at $3,830 USD. For this, the buyer receives a timepiece that is designed, engineered, and built almost entirely in-house in Glashütte, Germany, right down to the all-important escapement. It represents a statement of values, an appreciation for mechanics, and a piece of modern, functionalist art for the wrist.



Case: Stainless steel, diameter 38.5 mm, height 7.8 mm, lug-to-lug 45.3 mm. Domed sapphire crystal glass front, sapphire crystal glass back. Water resistant to 5 atm (splash-proof).

Movement: Caliber DUW 4601, manual winding. 2.8 mm height, 23 jewels, power reserve up to 52 hours. Features NOMOS swing system and quick-set date.

Dial: Galvanized, white silver-plated. Hands are oxidized black with a red seconds hand. Black indexes with blue-gray dot markers at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock. Extra-large date window at 6 o'clock.

Strap: Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black. Lug width 19 mm. Equipped with quick-change spring bars.

Price: USD 3,830

Reference Number: 1102

Notes: Design by Mark Braun. This model is an update, featuring the new in-house hand-wound caliber DUW 4601, which includes the proprietary NOMOS swing system escapement and an upgraded 52-hour power reserve.