In the sphere of German watchmaking, the town of Glashütte holds a legendary status, a place where precision and a distinct design language have been cultivated for generations. From this crucible of horological expertise emerges NOMOS Glashütte, a manufacturer that has, since its re-establishment in 1990, carved a niche for itself through a steadfast commitment to minimalist aesthetics, in-house mechanical innovation, and accessible luxury. The brand's philosophy often draws parallels with the Bauhaus movement, where function dictates form, resulting in timepieces that are clean, legible, and devoid of superfluous ornamentation. This dedication to a clear design ethos has garnered a loyal following among those who appreciate watches as tools of precision and objects of modern design.
NOMOS stands as a beacon of independence in an industry dominated by large conglomerates. This autonomy is not merely a point of pride but a foundational element of its character, allowing the company to pursue its own path in movement development and design. The decision to produce its own calibers, culminating in the creation of the proprietary NOMOS Swing System, was a declaration of its technical sovereignty. This escapement, the regulating heart of a mechanical watch, is a component that very few watchmaking companies worldwide can produce themselves. It represents a significant investment and a mastery of micro-mechanics, allowing NOMOS to control the quality and performance of its timepieces from start to finish.
Courtesy of NOMOS
Within the NOMOS catalog, the Ahoi collection represents the brand’s interpretation of a modern sports watch. It takes the core DNA of iconic models like the Tangente—with its characteristic typography and straight-angled lugs—and imbues it with a new level of robustness and functionality. The Ahoi is designed for an active life, built to withstand the rigors of daily wear and adventures beyond the office walls. It’s a watch that doesn’t demand to be babied, offering significant water resistance and a sturdy construction while retaining the slender profile and refined aesthetic that NOMOS is known for. The collection is a testament to the idea that a high-performance watch can also be a stylish daily companion.
The Ahoi family has previously explored a palette inspired by nature and leisure, with dials in deep Atlantic blue, serene Sky blue, and earthy Sand. Each colorway offers a different personality, yet all share the same versatile, all-rounder spirit. Now, joining this established lineup is a new variant that feels both fresh and fundamentally classic: the Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date with a brilliant white dial. This latest addition acts as a clean canvas, a crisp and essential take on the sports watch that feels as indispensable as a perfectly tailored white shirt, ready to complement any attire or occasion with its bright, optimistic presence.
Visually, the Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date White is a study in refined contrast and subtle detail. The dial is not a flat, stark white but rather a galvanized, white silver-plated surface. This finishing process lends it a subtle, metallic shimmer that catches the light beautifully, providing a dynamic quality that shifts with the viewing angle. It serves as the perfect backdrop for the crisp, black typography of the Arabic numerals and minute track, ensuring exceptional legibility, a cornerstone of the NOMOS design philosophy. The layout is clean and balanced, presenting information with an effortless clarity.
Upon closer inspection, the dial reveals carefully considered pops of color that animate the design. The hour and minute hands, rhodium-plated for a brilliant shine, are inlaid with a strip of Super-LumiNova in a striking light blue hue. This choice adds a cool, aquatic touch that nods to the watch's nautical-inspired name and capabilities. In stark, sporty contrast, the slender seconds hand sweeps across the dial in a vibrant red, a dynamic slash of color that injects a sense of energy and makes tracking the seconds an immediate, intuitive act. This thoughtful use of color elevates the watch beyond pure utility, giving it a playful yet purposeful character.
Courtesy of NOMOS
The hour markers are a combination of the brand’s signature sans-serif numerals at the even hours and slim, rectangular batons at the odd hours. These markers, along with the hands, are treated with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring that the watch remains perfectly legible in low-light conditions. The lume glows brightly after being charged by a light source, a critical feature for any watch with sporting intentions. At the three o’clock position, a generously sized date window is seamlessly integrated. Its placement at the edge of the dial is a deliberate design choice made possible by the underlying movement architecture, maintaining the dial’s spacious and uncluttered feel.
The case of the Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date is crafted from bipartite stainless steel and measures a versatile 38.5 millimeters in diameter. This contemporary sizing strikes a perfect balance, possessing enough presence to feel substantial on the wrist without being overbearing, making it suitable for a wide spectrum of wearers. Perhaps more impressive is its height of just 9.9 millimeters. For a robust automatic watch boasting a water resistance of 20 atmospheres (200 meters), this slenderness is a remarkable feat of engineering, allowing it to slide comfortably under a shirt cuff.
Further reinforcing its sporting credentials are the prominent crown guards that flank the screw-down crown. This design feature provides essential protection against impacts that could compromise the crown and, by extension, the water resistance of the case. As a thoughtful and practical detail, the crown stem features a red ring that becomes visible only when the crown is unscrewed, serving as a clear visual warning to the user to secure it before exposing the watch to water. The lug-to-lug distance of 48.7 millimeters ensures a stable and comfortable fit on the wrist, with the angled lugs helping the case to conform to its curve.
Flipping the watch over reveals a sapphire crystal exhibition case back, fixed with six screws, offering an unobstructed view of the mechanical heart within: the NOMOS caliber DUW 6101. The movement is a visual delight, showcasing the tenets of traditional Glashütte watchmaking. The three-quarter plate is adorned with Glashütte ribbing, a German equivalent to the Swiss Côtes de Genève, while other components feature perlage and sunburst polishing. The text on the movement is engraved and gilded, and the use of thermally blued screws provides a beautiful contrast against the rhodium-plated surfaces, a hallmark of high-quality German horology.
Courtesy of NOMOS
The DUW 6101 is a cornerstone of the brand's neomatik series, which stands for a new generation of exceptionally thin, high-performance automatic calibers. Measuring 33 millimeters in diameter but only 3.6 millimeters in height, its slim profile is what enables the Ahoi's svelte case design. This caliber is not merely a time-telling engine; it incorporates a highly user-friendly date complication. The date mechanism, which can be set quickly both forwards and backwards, features a large date ring placed around the outer edge of the movement, allowing for the large, legible date display on the dial.
At the core of the DUW 6101's performance is the NOMOS Swing System. This is the company's proprietary escapement, recognizable by its tempered blue balance spring. The ability to produce this critical component in-house grants NOMOS complete control over the accuracy and reliability of its timepieces. The movement operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of up to 42 hours. With 42 jewels contributing to its smooth and efficient operation, the DUW 6101 is a sophisticated, robust, and beautifully finished caliber that exemplifies modern German watchmaking.
The water resistance of 20 atm is a key feature that defines the Ahoi as a true all-rounder. This rating, equivalent to 200 meters, signifies that the watch is not just splash-resistant but suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and even recreational diving. This level of protection is achieved through the combination of the screw-down crown, a solid case construction, and high-quality seals, providing peace of mind for those who lead an active lifestyle on or near the water.
Complementing the watch head is a strap designed with both style and performance in mind. The Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date White comes fitted with a blue-black textile strap. This strap is custom-woven for NOMOS in France and is completely waterproof, making it the ideal companion for a watch designed to get wet. Its texture is comfortable against the skin, and its dark, two-tone color provides a handsome contrast to the bright white dial and polished steel case, reinforcing the watch’s sporty yet sophisticated aesthetic.
Courtesy of NOMOS
The strap is secured to the wrist with a specially designed winged clasp, crafted from stainless steel. This clasp is an example of the brand’s minimalist ethos, featuring a simple yet secure square design that has been polished by hand. It is a departure from the simple pin buckles found on many of the brand's other models and adds another touch of refined utility to the overall package. The 20-millimeter lug width is a standard size, offering owners the flexibility to easily experiment with other strap options if they desire.
The Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date White is presented as a "smart casual" timepiece. It skillfully navigates the space between a dedicated tool watch and a more formal accessory. Its clean lines and refined finish allow it to be worn with business attire, where it adds a fresh, modern touch. At the same time, its robust construction, high water resistance, and luminescent dial make it perfectly equipped for weekend adventures, whether on a boat deck, a tennis court, or a hiking trail.
The "Glashütte" designation on the dial is more than just a place of origin; it is a legally protected seal of quality. For a watch to bear this name, at least 50% of the caliber's value must be created in the town of Glashütte. NOMOS far exceeds this requirement, showcasing a deep commitment to the region's rich watchmaking heritage and its stringent standards of quality. This ensures that every Ahoi is not just designed in Germany, but is a product of its most celebrated watchmaking town.
The attention to detail extends to the crystal protecting the dial. It is a piece of domed sapphire, a material prized for its extreme scratch resistance. To ensure maximum clarity and reduce glare, the crystal is treated with an anti-reflective coating on both its interior and exterior surfaces. This is a premium feature that significantly enhances the legibility of the dial in various lighting conditions, particularly in bright, direct sunlight.
Courtesy of NOMOS
Even the presentation of the watch is thoughtfully considered. Instead of a traditional large box, NOMOS automatic timepieces are delivered in an elegant and practical black leather wallet. Made from soft, full-grain leather, this wallet is designed to protect the watch beautifully but also serves as a perfect travel companion, easily fitting into luggage for weekend trips or longer journeys. It is a sustainable and useful alternative to bulky packaging, reflecting the brand’s practical and modern approach.
This model is positioned as a key piece for mechanical watch enthusiasts who do not wish to sacrifice style for performance. With a retail price starting from $4,820 USD, it offers considerable value, providing access to a true in-house, German-made caliber with a proprietary escapement in a watch that is built to last. The NOMOS Ahoi Neomatik 38 Date White is available through the brand's network of authorized retailers and its own online store, ready to set sail for new shores on the wrists of discerning individuals.
Case: Stainless steel, bipartite construction. Diameter 38.5 mm, height 9.9 mm, lug-to-lug 48.7 mm. Domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating; sapphire crystal display back. Screw-down crown with crown guard. Water resistance 20 atm.
Movement: In-house caliber DUW 6101 neomatik. Automatic winding. Height 3.6 mm, diameter 33.0 mm. Power reserve up to 42 hours, 42 jewels. Features the proprietary NOMOS swing system.
Dial: Galvanized, white silver-plated. Hour indexes with white Super-LumiNova. Rhodium-plated hour and minute hands with light blue Super-LumiNova inlay; red seconds hand. Date window at 3 o'clock.
Strap: Blue-black woven textile strap, waterproof. Lug width 20 mm. Fastened with a stainless steel winged clasp.
Price: From 4,820 USD
Reference Number: 525.SB/525
Notes: The watch features a patented date mechanism that can be set forwards and backwards. A red warning ring is visible on the crown stem when it is unscrewed. The timepiece is delivered in a black full-grain leather wallet.