The Hourstriker Verdict
I'm normally not a fan of red on the dial of a watch, but Moser must know better than me, since the red Grand Feu enamel dial on the newest Streamliner is stunning. The richness of the red hue goes perfectly with the matte black of the Ceramic case and bracelet. It's amazing when a dial color can be so bold it even takes visual precedence over the tourbillon at 6 o'clock.
— Peter, Editor-in-Chief
H. Moser & Cie. has expanded its catalog of integrated bracelet sports watches with the introduction of the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, reference 6805-2100. This release marks a significant departure for the independent manufacture, representing the first time the Streamliner case architecture has been rendered in ceramic. Historically produced in stainless steel and precious metals, the Streamliner design relies heavily on fluid, uninterrupted lines and complex finishing techniques that present substantial machining challenges when translated to non-metallic substrates. The new model combines this material evolution with a high-complication movement and a Grand Feu enamel dial, positioning the watch in a higher tier of technical complexity than its time-only predecessors. The release confirms the brand's intent to utilize the Streamliner platform as a vehicle for material science experimentation alongside its established role as a luxury sports offering.
The transition to ceramic for a bracelet-heavy design like the Streamliner necessitates a complete re-evaluation of production tolerances. Unlike steel or gold, which possess a degree of ductility allowing for minor adjustments during assembly, ceramic is an inorganic, non-metallic solid that is brittle and unyielding once sintered. The successful execution of the Streamliner’s signature cushion-shaped case and integrated link bracelet in this material implies a mastery of precise sintering and diamond-tool machining. The manufacturer has opted for an anthracite grey hue rather than the industry-standard black, a choice that alters the light absorption properties of the watch. While black ceramic tends to flatten geometric details due to total light absorption, the anthracite variant allows for a broader range of visible finishing techniques. The case flanks feature a circular satin finish, while the bracelet links display vertical brushing, creating a textual contrast that mimics the finishing usually reserved for metals.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
The Case and Dial
The chassis of the reference 6805-2100 measures 40.0mm in diameter, a dimension that maintains the mid-sized profile preferred in the current market for integrated sports watches. The case height is recorded at 11.0mm excluding the crystal, rising to 12.8mm when the domed sapphire is accounted for. This thickness is relatively restrained for a tourbillon-equipped automatic movement, facilitated by the removal of a traditional dial plate in favor of the enamel process directly on the base. The ceramic material offers distinct physical advantages over steel, specifically regarding Vickers hardness. High-tech ceramic typically rates significantly higher on the Vickers scale than 316L steel, rendering the case virtually scratch-proof and impervious to the hairline abrasions that accumulate on metal sports watches. Additionally, the material is chemically inert and hypoallergenic, addressing oxidation concerns and skin sensitivities. The case construction provides water resistance to 12 ATM (approximately 120 meters), a rating that validates the "sports" classification of the timepiece despite its high complication, utilizing a screw-in crown adorned with an engraved “M” to secure the internal gaskets.
The dial of the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is a study in the discipline of "Concept" design, a nomenclature H. Moser & Cie. utilizes to denote dials devoid of indices, scales, or branding. This reductionist approach places the entire visual burden on the material quality and the regulating organ. The dial surface is Grand Feu enamel, executed in a "Red Fumé" gradient. The production process begins with a solid white gold base, which is engraved with a hammered pattern. This texture is critical, as it provides a variable surface depth for the translucent enamel to pool, creating areas of varying color saturation. The enamel pigments are washed, crushed, and applied in a gradient pattern before being fired in a kiln at temperatures exceeding 800 degrees Celsius. The term "Grand Feu" implies a high-risk manufacturing process where multiple firings are required to set the color and achieve the vitrified surface; cracking or color inconsistencies at any stage result in the component being discarded. The resulting aesthetic is a dial that darkens from a vibrant, arterial red at the center to a deep, near-black crimson at the periphery, mimicking the fumé effect usually achieved through lacquer. Time is indicated by hour and minute hands fitted with Globolight inserts, a ceramic-based compound containing Super-LumiNova, ensuring legibility despite the lack of hour markers.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
The Movement
Powering the reference 6805-2100 is the HMC 805 automatic calibre, a movement that serves as a successor to the HMC 804. This mechanism operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz), a beat rate often selected for tourbillon movements to reduce wear on the escapement and extend service intervals. The movement provides a minimum power reserve of 72 hours, or three full days, delivered via a bi-directional pawl winding system. The rotor, visible through the sapphire exhibition caseback, is skeletonised and crafted from 18-carat red gold. The high density of the gold rotor ensures efficient winding inertia, while the open-working prevents the oscillating weight from obscuring the movement bridges beneath. The movement architecture features partially skeletonised bridges finished in an anthracite coating with Moser double stripes, a visual choice that aligns the calibre’s aesthetic with the grey ceramic exterior.
The defining technical feature of the HMC 805 is the one-minute flying tourbillon located at the 6 o'clock position. Unlike a standard tourbillon, which is supported by bridges on both the top and bottom, a flying tourbillon is cantilevered from the base, offering an unobstructed view of the escapement mechanism. Within this rotating cage lies a double hairspring system, produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. The application of matched hairsprings is a solution to a specific isochronal problem found in mechanical oscillators. By mounting two hairsprings that breathe in opposite directions, the mechanism averages out the gravitational errors affecting the balance wheel. As one spring expands, the other compresses, effectively cancelling out the displacement of the center of gravity that occurs in a single-spring system. This configuration improves the concentricity of the balance spring’s expansion and contraction, theoretically yielding higher precision across various vertical and horizontal positions. The tourbillon cage itself is skeletonised to reduce mass and energy consumption.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
The Bracelet and Wearability
The integration of the bracelet into the case is the central ergonomic feature of the Streamliner collection. For this ceramic iteration, the manufacture has replicated the complex articulation of the steel model using ceramic links. Each link is individually machined and finished, a process that is considerably more time-consuming than stamping or milling steel. The bracelet features a fluid, reptilian flexibility that allows it to drape closely over the wrist radius. The vertical satin finishing on the links is critical here; on metal, this finish hides scratches, but on ceramic, it serves purely to diffuse light and accentuate the architectural form of the links. The bracelet is secured by a folding clasp with three blades, ensuring security during wear.
From a wearability standpoint, the use of ceramic significantly alters the tactile experience of the watch. While steel and gold have high thermal conductivity, initially feeling cold to the touch, ceramic has lower thermal conductivity and quickly adapts to body temperature. Furthermore, the material’s low density results in a substantial reduction in total weight compared to the steel equivalent, and a massive reduction compared to gold. This change in mass dynamics affects the center of gravity on the wrist, likely making the watch feel more stable during active motion. The hypoallergenic nature of the material also eliminates the risk of nickel allergies, a relevant factor for a portion of the collector market. The "M" logo engraved on the clasp and crown remains subtle, maintaining the minimalist ethos established by the dial.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
Pricing and Availability
The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is priced at $112,100 USD. While not explicitly designated as a limited edition with a fixed production number, the volume of output is naturally constrained by the rejection rates inherent in Grand Feu enamel dial production and the assembly time required for the tourbillon regulation. The watch represents a high-value proposition within the brand's portfolio, sitting well above the standard time-only Streamliner models. It targets a demographic of collectors who prioritize material innovation and mechanical complexity over brand ubiquity. The reference number for this model is 6805-2100, and it is available through authorized retailers and the brand's direct sales channels.
Courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
Technical Specifications
Case: Anthracite grey ceramic; 40.0mm diameter; 11.0mm height (excl. crystal); 12.8mm height (incl. crystal); sapphire caseback; screw-in crown.
Movement: HMC 805 automatic calibre; 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 72-hour power reserve; bi-directional pawl winding; 18k red gold rotor.
Dial: Red Fumé Grand Feu enamel with hammered texture; white gold base; Globolight® hands; no logo or indices.
Strap: Integrated anthracite grey ceramic bracelet; folding clasp with three blades.
Price: $112,100 USD.
Reference Number: 6805-2100.
Notes: Features a flying tourbillon with a double hairspring produced by Precision Engineering AG; water resistant to 12 ATM.