MB&F SP One

MB&F, a name that consistently challenges the norms of horology, has built its reputation on creating kinetic sculptures that happen to tell time. Founded in 2005 by Maximilian Büsser, the "F" in MB&F stands for "Friends," a collective of talented individuals who collaborate to bring Büsser's imaginative concepts to life. This "concept laboratory" doesn't adhere to traditional watchmaking blueprints; instead, it deconstructs and reconstructs timekeeping into three-dimensional art. The brand operates on a philosophy that often seems counterintuitive to standard business practices—no market research, no rigid business plans, just an unyielding drive to create the unexpected and venture where others might not.



Over the years, MB&F has carved out distinct territories with its Horological Machines (HMs) and Legacy Machines (LMs). The Horological Machines are often radical, drawing inspiration from science fiction, aviation, or the animal kingdom, resulting in wrist-borne devices that are as much about mechanical expression as they are about indicating hours and minutes. In contrast, the Legacy Machines, while still unmistakably MB&F, pay homage to nineteenth-century watchmaking traditions, reinterpreting historical complications within a contemporary framework. This portfolio of over twenty distinct calibres showcases a relentless pursuit of innovation. Now, a new chapter unfolds with the introduction of the SP One, a timepiece that inaugurates an entirely new "Special Projects" collection.



The SP One emerges from a fascinating period of introspection and creative exploration within MB&F. As the brand neared its 20th anniversary, the team found themselves reflecting on their core ethos, one that thrives on defying expectations. This led them to a "basket of dormant projects"—ideas sketched and shelved over the years, deemed perhaps too unconventional or out of sync at the time of their conception. The decision to delve into this trove of unrealized intuitions was spurred by a desire to stay true to their spirit of innovation, particularly in times of uncertainty and even amidst success, which Büsser himself notes can breed complacency. The M.A.D.1, initially a playful experiment, was one such project plucked from this basket that found unexpected acclaim, reinforcing the idea that the most unconventional paths can lead to remarkable outcomes.



From this collection of latent creativity, one concept, codenamed "Special Project One," was chosen. The question posed internally was a bold one: after two decades of avant-garde designs, what if MB&F were to create a watch with a more restrained character, a time-only piece housed in a modest 38mm case? This was not a move towards conventionality for its own sake, but rather another form of risk-taking, a challenge to preconceived notions of what an MB&F creation could be. The project, dating back to initial sketches in 2018, was about exploring a different facet of the brand's identity, one that whispered its uniqueness rather than shouting it.



The early visual concepts for the SP One, which included a playful sketch resembling a smiley face formed by three circles, hinted at the core idea: a trinity of key watchmaking elements—the barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial—seemingly suspended within the case. This initial vision was then meticulously refined in collaboration with Eric Giroud, a renowned watch designer and a long-standing Friend of the brand. After numerous iterations, the design was crystallized, and the intricate task of engineering this vision into a functional mechanical marvel began, a process filled with considerable technical puzzles.



At the heart of the SP One, originally carrying the internal moniker "Three Circles," is a movement specifically developed in-house by MB&F. This movement is architecturally designed to showcase its three primary components as if they are levitating. The barrel, the source of power; the balance wheel, the regulating organ; and the dial, the indicator of time, all appear to float in a captivating mid-air display. This illusion is amplified by the extensive use of sapphire crystal on both the front and the display back of the watch, creating an almost invisible stage for these mechanical performers.



The engineering philosophy behind this visual feat embraces a "less is more" approach. The bridges of the movement are minimized and strategically placed, many components being cleverly concealed beneath the three focal elements. This deliberate sparseness ensures that little distracts from the main attraction, making the hunt for a visible screw from the front a challenging endeavor. The effect is a stunning sense of openness and mechanical transparency.



Visually, the three suspended elements—barrel, balance wheel, and dial—share identical circumferences, a design choice that adds a layer of complexity to the movement's construction but contributes significantly to its balanced aesthetic. The single mainspring barrel, responsible for the watch's substantial 72-hour power reserve, is elegantly suspended, enhancing the levitation effect. The balance wheel, oscillating at a frequency of 2.5Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour), is positioned prominently at the 2 o’clock position, its rhythmic motion drawing the eye.



Adding to the three-dimensional character is the inclined dial, subtly tilted to showcase MB&F's proficiency in conical gearing. This feature, rarely seen in watchmaking due to its technical demands, allows the hours and minutes to be read from an angle, adding a discreet yet intriguing visual twist. The entire assembly is framed by what Maximilian Büsser refers to as the "amphitheatre"—a beautifully beveled flange that surrounds the movement. This design element, available in sky-blue for the platinum edition and anthracite for the rose gold version, creates a stepped, theatrical backdrop that spotlights the intricacies of the mechanism, much like an ancient arena would focus attention on the performers within.



Turning the SP One over reveals the meticulous hand-finishing that is a hallmark of MB&F's creations. The anthracite bridges, treated with a ruthenium finish, showcase internal bevel angles, polished bevels, and handmade engravings. The wheels are hand-angled, prominent chatons are used, and there's a sophisticated interplay of satin, polished, and micro-blasted surfaces. This dedication to traditional artisanal craftsmanship is evident throughout the 191 components and 31 jewels that make up the manually wound SP One movement.



The case of the SP One is as thoughtfully conceived as its movement. Crafted from either Platinum 950 or 18K Rose Gold, it measures 38mm in diameter and a relatively slim 12mm in height, with a lug-to-lug dimension of 41.9mm. The design eschews a traditional bezel, allowing the domed sapphire crystal on the top to blend almost seamlessly into the contours of the case middle. This creates a smooth, pebble-like form that is exceptionally tactile. The watch invites touch, its curves flowing organically.



A particularly refined detail is the construction of the lugs. They are not directly attached to the upper case but rather rise from the lower case section. This creates a subtle yet distinct gap between each hand-polished lug and the main body of the watch, further emphasizing the floating, almost aerodynamic quality of the design. Despite its relative thinness, the SP One possesses a significant three-dimensional presence on the wrist, feeling less like a flat disc and more like a small, smooth object sculpted by time and motion. MB&F emphasizes that the goal was not to chase records for thinness, but to achieve a harmonious balance in design and proportions, prioritizing character and artistry.



The visual presentation of the SP One is striking. The platinum version, with its cool, bright metallic sheen, is paired with a sky-blue bevelled flange that provides a subtle, almost ethereal contrast. Light plays across the polished surfaces of the platinum and the expansive sapphire crystal, drawing the eye inwards towards the suspended mechanical elements. The dark dial at 6 o'clock, with its clear white markings for hours and minutes, offers excellent legibility despite its unique inclination.



Conversely, the 18K rose gold model exudes a warmer, richer feel. The deep hue of the rose gold case is complemented by an anthracite bevelled flange, creating a sophisticated and somewhat more assertive look. The same black DLC inclined dial provides a strong point of contrast, ensuring the time is easily discernible. On both versions, the absence of a traditional dial covering the entire movement allows for an uninterrupted view of the mechanical ballet within, making the act of checking the time a far more engaging experience. The calfskin straps, in colors that complement each case material, are fitted with pin buckles made from corresponding white or rose gold, completing the cohesive design.



The SP One features hours and minutes displayed on the inclined dial positioned at the 6 o’clock location. The watch is water-resistant to 30 meters (3 ATM or 100 feet), suitable for daily wear but not intended for aquatic activities. The sapphire crystals on both the top and the display back are treated with an anti-reflective coating to maximize visibility of the intricate mechanics and the unique dial. The lug width is 18mm, allowing for strap customization if desired, though the supplied calfskin straps are carefully chosen to match the distinct character of each model.



The SP One collection represents a new avenue for MB&F, one that seeks a different kind of equilibrium. It’s a project that challenged the brand to step outside its established patterns, not by becoming more extreme, but by exploring subtlety and a particular kind of material and formal purity. It embodies the idea of doing the unexpected, proving that risk and creativity are not solely the domain of the overtly radical.



The genesis of MB&F itself is a story of breaking away from the conventional. Maximilian Büsser, after a successful career managing established watch brands, founded MB&F in 2005. His vision was to create a collaborative environment, a "concept laboratory," where he could work with talented professionals—the "Friends"—to design and craft limited series of radical concept watches. The first Horological Machine, HM1, unveiled in 2007, with its sculpted three-dimensional case and beautifully finished movement, set the tone for the unconventional Machines that followed. These were, and continue to be, instruments that tell the time in the most expressive way possible, rather than merely Machines to tell the time.



In 2011, the Legacy Machine collection was introduced, offering a different, though equally MB&F, perspective. These round-cased timepieces pay tribute to the grand watchmaking traditions of the 19th century, reinterpreting classical complications with a contemporary artistic sensibility. Some Legacy Machines have also seen "EVO" editions, designed with increased robustness for more active lifestyles. The brand typically alternates between launching contemporary Horological Machines and historically inspired Legacy Machines, showcasing its dual creative tracks.



Beyond wristwatches, the "Friends" aspect has led to diverse collaborations. "Performance Art" pieces are MB&F machines reinterpreted by external artists, while "Co-creations" are other types of mechanical devices, such as clocks made with L’Epée 1839 or music boxes with Reuge, engineered from MB&F concepts. These creations are showcased in MB&F’s M.A.D.Galleries (Mechanical Art Devices) in Geneva and Dubai, and MB&F Labs in other global cities, which act as art galleries rather than traditional boutiques. The brand’s innovative journey has been recognized with numerous accolades, including an impressive nine awards from the prestigious Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), including the coveted “Aiguille d’Or” for the best watch of the year on multiple occasions.



The MB&F SP One is launched in two distinct editions. The SP One Platinum, featuring the sky-blue bevelled flange, is priced at CHF 63,000, exclusive of taxes. The SP One Rose Gold, with its anthracite bevelled flange, is priced at CHF 58,000, also exclusive of taxes. These timepieces, inaugurating the "Special Projects" line, represent a nuanced expansion of MB&F's creative universe, offering a different interpretation of the brand's core philosophy of three-dimensional kinetic art and mechanical innovation. Availability will be through MB&F's M.A.D.Galleries and authorized retail partners.



Case: Platinum 950 or 18K rose gold. Diameter 38mm x height 12mm. Lug-to-lug 41.9mm. 19 components. Water resistance 30m / 3ATM / 100 feet. Sapphire crystals on top and display back with anti-reflective coating.

Movement: SP One movement developed in-house by MB&F. Manual winding mainspring barrel. 72 hours power reserve. Features signature balance wheel and inclined time dial. Superlative hand finishing, anthracite bridges (ruthenium finish). Balance frequency 2.5Hz (18,000 vph). 191 components, 31 jewels.

Dial: Black DLC inclined dial at 6 o’clock displaying hours and minutes.

Strap: Calfskin strap. White gold or rose gold pin buckle. Lug width 18mm.

Price: SP ONE PLATINUM CHF 63,000 (Excl. taxes). SP ONE ROSE GOLD CHF 58,000 (Excl. taxes).

Notes: Features a trinity of floating elements (barrel, balance wheel, dial) appearing to hover. Movement visible through sapphire domes in an "amphitheatre" design. Inaugurates the new "Special Projects" collection and is MB&F’s slimmest and smallest watch.