Jaeger LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

A distinct lineage of sporting timepieces finds a new expression in the latest creation from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Polaris collection, which has carved out a unique space for itself since its modern revival, welcomes a new chronograph that builds upon its established codes of functional design and refined aesthetics. For 2025, the Maison introduces the Polaris Chronograph with a compelling ocean grey dial, a piece that deftly merges the spirit of mid-century adventure with thoroughly contemporary watchmaking execution. This new model is not merely an update but a thoughtful evolution, showcasing the brand's mastery over both complex mechanics and sophisticated visual presentation.



The story of the Polaris is deeply rooted in the 1960s, a decade of immense innovation and social change. During this era, Jaeger-LeCoultre responded to the burgeoning world of scuba diving with a timepiece that was both unconventional and highly practical: the Memovox Polaris. Its defining feature was a mechanical alarm, designed to provide an audible reminder to divers of their ascent time. This complication, housed within a notably large case for its time, set the Memovox Polaris apart and cemented its status as an icon of purpose-built dive watches. That original piece was a clear statement of intent, embodying a fearless ambition and a thirst for exploration that continues to inform the character of the entire Polaris collection today.



When Jaeger-LeCoultre reintroduced the Polaris line in 2018, it was with a clear objective: to create a collection for the modern adventurer. The design philosophy was not to simply replicate the past, but to capture its sporting soul and reinterpret it for a contemporary audience. This meant balancing robust capabilities and practical functions with the refined finishing and mechanical integrity for which the Maison is renowned. The resulting timepieces are versatile, equally at home on a brisk outdoor excursion as they are in a casual urban environment, bridging the gap between a high-performance sports watch and a daily companion.



At the core of this new model’s identity is its 42mm stainless steel case. The design is a masterful exercise in balance and proportion, featuring the key Polaris architectural codes that give the collection its strong visual signature. The lines are taut and clean, flowing into sharply curving lugs that allow the case to sit comfortably and securely on a variety of wrist sizes. This thoughtful ergonomic design ensures that despite its substantial presence and capabilities, the watch remains highly wearable for daily use. A relatively thin bezel maximizes the dial aperture, drawing the eye inward to the watch's primary display.



Further examination of the case reveals a sophisticated interplay of surface treatments. Broad planes of brushed steel contrast sharply with slender, brightly polished chamfers along the edges of the lugs and bezel. This mix of finishes is not merely decorative; it serves to accentuate the case's dynamic geometry, catching the light in a way that creates constant visual interest. The watch is topped with a "glass-box" sapphire crystal, a design element that recalls vintage acrylic crystals while offering the superior scratch resistance of modern sapphire. The large crown, a deliberate nod to the 1960s original, is fluted for enhanced grip, as are the robust chronograph pushers, ensuring ease of operation in all conditions. The case is rated for a water resistance of 10 bar (100 meters), providing ample protection for swimming and water sports.



The undeniable centerpiece of this 2025 release is its new ocean grey dial. It is a bold and visually arresting feature, endowed with a remarkable sense of depth and complexity. The color itself is a rich, nuanced grey that shifts in character depending on the light, evoking the varying moods of the open sea. This is not a simple, flat color, but a graduated surface that transitions from a lighter shade in the center to a deeper, darker tone at its periphery. This double gradient effect, applied across the main dial surfaces, imbues the watch with a profound visual depth that invites closer inspection.



Achieving this captivating dial is an exceptionally complex and labor-intensive process, undertaken entirely by hand at the Jaeger-LeCoultre manufacture. The journey from a raw brass blank to the finished dial involves nearly forty distinct steps. It begins with the application of a clear varnish, which is followed by several layers of the grey color. The crucial gradient effect is then created through the painstaking application of a black layer, where the watchmaker’s skill is paramount in controlling the precise shade and smooth transition. The process culminates in the application of thirty coats of translucent lacquer. It is this final, multi-layered finish that imparts the dial with its signature depth and richness, creating a glossy, liquid-like surface.



The dial’s construction is as intricate as its finish. It is composed of three distinct parts: a central disc, a middle ring that hosts the applied hour markers, and an outer flange marked with a tachymeter scale for calculating speed over a fixed distance. Each section is treated with a different finish to create contrast and enhance legibility. The central disc features a fine sunray brushing, which radiates from the Pinion and interacts playfully with the light. This is juxtaposed with the smooth, high-gloss finish of the hours ring. The two chronograph sub-dials, meanwhile, are recessed and feature a fine circular graining, adding another layer of texture and clearly delineating them from the main time display.



The layout of the chronograph functions is designed to be intuitive and immediately legible. A central seconds hand, long and slender, tracks the elapsed chronograph seconds, allowing for a more precise reading of this primary measurement. This is complemented by a 30-minute counter situated in the sub-dial at the 3 o’clock position. To provide a sense of balance and constant animation on the dial, a running small seconds indicator resides in the sub-dial at 9 o’clock. This classic bicompax arrangement is both functional and aesthetically pleasing, providing all necessary information without cluttering the display.



Every element of the dial has been considered for maximum clarity. The hands are skeletonized, a modern Polaris design code that allows for greater visibility of the underlying dial and sub-dials. The hour markers are bold and trapezoidal in shape, providing a strong visual anchor that balances the finer details of the chronograph scales. Bright orange accents are used selectively on the tips of the hands and on key markers of the chronograph registers, adding a vibrant splash of color that speaks to the watch’s sporty character while also drawing the eye to the most pertinent information. To ensure this legibility extends to all lighting conditions, the hands, numerals, and hour markers are all treated with a generous application of luminescent material, an essential attribute for any watch with adventurous aspirations.



Visible through a sapphire crystal case back is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 761, the mechanical heart that powers the Polaris Chronograph. This movement is a quintessential example of the Maison’s integrated approach to watchmaking, where high performance is inextricably linked with mechanical sophistication. Designed, produced, and assembled entirely in-house in the Vallée de Joux, the Calibre 761 is an automatic winding movement built from the ground up to incorporate the chronograph function, rather than having it added as a separate module.



This integrated architecture allows for a more elegant and efficient mechanical solution. The chronograph complication is controlled by a column-wheel mechanism, a feature highly regarded by connoisseurs and associated with higher-end chronographs. The column wheel acts as the "brain" of the chronograph, coordinating the start, stop, and reset functions. Its use results in a noticeably smoother and more satisfying tactile feedback when operating the pushers. This is paired with a vertical clutch system, which engages the chronograph seconds hand. A vertical clutch ensures an immediate, clean start to the timing, with none of the slight "jump" that can sometimes be observed in chronographs with a lateral clutch.



Powering this sophisticated mechanism is a twin-barrel system. By using two mainspring barrels instead of one, the movement can store a greater amount of energy, resulting in a generous power reserve of 65 hours. This means the watch can be taken off on a Friday evening and will still be running on Monday morning, a significant practical convenience for the owner. The movement operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), a modern standard that provides a good balance between accuracy and long-term reliability, while also creating a smooth, fluid sweep for the seconds hand.



The view through the case back is not just a technical one; it is a display of fine watchmaking craft. The movement's components are beautifully finished in classic Swiss tradition. The baseplate is adorned with Côtes de Genève, or "Geneva stripes," a decorative pattern of parallel waves that is a hallmark of high-quality movements. The screws are thermally blued, a traditional process that turns them a deep, iridescent blue for both corrosion resistance and aesthetic appeal. The signature open-worked winding rotor, crafted in the shape of the 'JL' motif, allows for a less obstructed view of the intricate mechanics beneath it while efficiently winding the mainsprings with the motion of the wearer's wrist.



The Calibre 761 is composed of 248 individual components, a testament to its complexity. It operates with 35 jewels, which are synthetic rubies used as low-friction bearings for the gears and other moving parts, enhancing the movement's efficiency and longevity. Despite its integrated chronograph and double-barrel system, the movement maintains a relatively slim profile with a thickness of just 5.76mm, which contributes to the overall wearability and balanced proportions of the complete watch.



True to its identity as a watch for life's varied adventures, the Polaris Chronograph is equipped with a quick-change strap system, underlining its inherent versatility. This practical feature allows the owner to alter the watch’s character in a matter of moments, without the need for any tools. The watch is delivered as a complete package with two distinct straps designed to suit different occasions and moods.



The first of these is a handsome strap crafted from blue-grey canvas. This option leans into a more casual, relaxed style. The color perfectly complements the ocean grey of the dial, creating a cohesive and understated look. The canvas material is durable and comfortable, making it an excellent choice for everyday wear and light outdoor activities. It gives the watch a slightly more rugged, utilitarian feel while remaining stylish.



The second strap included is made of black rubber. This option immediately accentuates the sportier side of the Polaris Chronograph. The rubber is textured with a fine 'Clous de Paris' hobnail pattern, adding a touch of refinement to the otherwise performance-oriented material. This strap is ideal for more demanding physical activities or for wear in and around water, as it is completely impervious to moisture and very easy to clean. Paired with the black rubber strap, the watch takes on a more aggressive and athletic stance. Both straps are fitted with a 20mm stainless steel double folding buckle for security.



The sum of these parts—the meticulously finished case, the deeply complex dial, the high-performance movement, and the versatile strap system—results in a truly compelling on-wrist experience. The 42mm diameter is balanced by the short, sharply curved lugs, allowing the watch to hug the wrist comfortably. It possesses a satisfying heft that communicates quality without being burdensome. Visually, it is a dynamic object. The play of light across the brushed and polished steel surfaces of the case, combined with the incredible depth and shifting color of the lacquered dial, ensures that there is always something new to appreciate from every angle. It is a watch that successfully projects both capability and refinement.



The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph with its ocean grey dial is designated by the reference number Q9028651. As a new release for 2025, it represents the latest chapter in the evolving story of this significant collection. The watch is offered at a retail price of US$ 14,900. It stands as a powerful statement piece that offers a rich heritage, cutting-edge craftsmanship, and a design that is at once modern, functional, and visually captivating.



Case: Stainless steel, 42mm diameter, 13.39mm thickness. Water resistance of 10 bar. Features include a mix of brushed and polished surfaces and a glass-box sapphire crystal.

Movement: In-house Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 761. Automatic winding with a 65-hour power reserve from two barrels. Features 248 components, 35 jewels, and a frequency of 28,800 VpH. Fully integrated column-wheel chronograph with vertical clutch.

Dial: Ocean grey with a double gradient effect and a 35-layer lacquer finish. Features a combination of sunburst, grained, and opaline textures. Luminescent numerals, hour-markers, and skeletonized hands.

Strap: Interchangeable system with two straps included: one black rubber and one blue-grey canvas. 21mm lug width. Stainless steel double folding buckle.

Price: US$ 14,900

Reference Number: Q9028651

Notes: The dial's rich, deep color is the result of a complex process involving 35 manually applied layers of lacquer. The movement is a high-performance, fully integrated chronograph, visible through a sapphire case back.