DOXA SUB 200 Steel Bezel

DOXA has introduced a notable update to one of its core offerings with the launch of the SUB 200 featuring a new polished steel bezel insert. This release, timed for Summer 2025, adds a different character to the established dive watch line, presenting a brighter, more contemporary aesthetic alongside the existing models equipped with sapphire bezel inserts. The introduction expands the choices available within the popular SUB 200 family, aiming to cater to varied tastes while upholding the brand's dive watch legacy.



The story of Doxa is intrinsically linked to the evolution of the dive watch. Founded in 1889 in Le Locle, Switzerland, a region renowned as a hub of Swiss watchmaking, the brand built its reputation over decades. While producing various timepieces, DOXA made a significant mark on the diving world in 1967. It was then that they launched the DOXA SUB, a watch designed specifically for the burgeoning recreational diving market, moving beyond purely military or professional specifications.



A key innovation introduced with the 1967 DOXA SUB was the integration of a unidirectional rotating bezel engraved with the US Navy's no-decompression limit dive table. This feature was a major advancement in diver safety, allowing divers to easily calculate and monitor their dive times to avoid decompression sickness. Coupled with its distinctive, high-visibility orange dial – chosen after testing various colors for underwater legibility – the DOXA SUB quickly became a recognizable and respected tool for underwater exploration.



This pioneering spirit and focus on functional, reliable dive watches established a strong foundation for the brand. The SUB designation grew to represent some of the most well-regarded dive watches in the industry. Throughout its history, DOXA has maintained a commitment established over 130 years ago: producing high-quality, robust Swiss watches at accessible price points, often embodying a spirit of adventure and exploration. The modern SUB 200 collection draws directly from this rich heritage.



The SUB 200 model serves as an important piece in the contemporary DOXA catalogue. It represents an accessible entry point into the brand's dive watch offerings, translating the historical design cues and functional requirements of its predecessors into a watch suited for modern life. It aims to bridge the gap between a purpose-built dive instrument and a versatile timepiece for daily wear, carrying forward the legacy established by models like the original 1967 SUB.



The most significant aspect of this 2025 release is the introduction of a unidirectional rotating bezel with a polished stainless steel insert. This marks a departure from, and an alternative to, the sapphire inserts previously characteristic of the modern SUB 200 line. The polished steel interacts with light differently, providing a distinct gleam and shine that gives the watch face a brighter, more radiant appearance compared to the deeper look of sapphire.



This material choice subtly alters the watch's visual profile. The polished steel bezel presents a visually slimmer and perhaps more refined edge to the watch head compared to the sapphire alternative. It creates a noticeable contrast against the typically brushed surfaces of the 42.5 mm stainless steel case, highlighting the bezel's function and form. This interplay of light and finish contributes to the watch's versatility, making it appear well-suited for both casual seaside environments and more urban settings.



It is important to understand that this new steel bezel variant is an expansion of the SUB 200 line, not a replacement for the existing sapphire bezel models. DOXA is deliberately offering a choice to consumers. The sapphire bezel option remains available for those who prefer its specific characteristics – namely its high scratch resistance and its more traditional, technical dive watch aesthetic which contributed significantly to the SUB 200's popularity upon its relaunch.



The polished steel bezel, conversely, introduces a different feel. It brings a sense of freshness and visual lightness to the design. Its reflective quality lends an almost graphic sharpness to the watch's appearance. This choice subtly modernizes the SUB 200's look, offering a different style without compromising the underlying technical capabilities expected of a DOXA SUB. The core functionality and robustness remain central to the design, regardless of the bezel material.



By providing these two distinct bezel finishes – polished steel and sapphire – DOXA demonstrates a strategy of collection evolution while remaining anchored to its core identity. The fundamental watch remains the same: a technically proficient dive watch engineered for underwater use but equally comfortable as an everyday companion for an active lifestyle. The availability of different bezel materials now allows the SUB 200 to appeal to a broader range of personal styles and preferences.



The stainless steel case itself measures 42.5mm in diameter, a size generally considered versatile and suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes. Constructed from stainless steel, it provides the necessary durability for a watch intended for potentially harsh environments. Features like a screw-down crown are essential for ensuring water resistance, contributing to the watch's 200-meter depth rating, making it suitable for recreational diving and various water sports.



Internally, the SUB 200 Steel Bezel models are powered by a Swiss automatic movement. While the specific caliber isn't detailed in the launch information, DOXA consistently utilizes reliable workhorse movements known for their robustness and serviceability, aligning with the brand's philosophy of providing functional and dependable timepieces. This mechanical heart ensures the watch operates without the need for batteries, powered by the motion of the wearer's wrist.



A key element of the SUB 200's appeal lies in its dial design and the array of color options. The layout typically features applied indices and distinct hands, coated with luminous material for legibility in low-light conditions – a critical feature for a dive watch. The new steel bezel models are launched in all eight signature DOXA colorways, significantly expanding the collection with 16 new references (eight colors, each with bracelet/rubber options, plus the NATO).



These colors include the iconic Professional (orange), the classic Sharkhunter (black), the versatile Searambler (silver), the deep Caribbean (navy blue), the vibrant Divingstar (yellow), the summery Aquamarine (turquoise), the crisp Whitepearl (white), and the rich Seaemerald (green). Each colorway offers a distinct personality, from the high-visibility orange rooted in history to the more subdued black and silver, and the bolder hues like yellow, turquoise, and green. The polished steel bezel interacts uniquely with each dial color, framing it with a bright metallic border.



DOXA offers several strap and bracelet choices for the SUB 200 Steel Bezel. The stainless steel "beads of rice" bracelet is a classic option, known for its comfort and vintage-inspired aesthetic. It features multiple small, polished links that conform well to the wrist. Alternatively, FKM rubber straps are available, color-matched to the respective dials (e.g., orange rubber for the Professional, black for the Sharkhunter, blue for the Caribbean). These rubber straps are offered in both standard and small sizes, enhancing wearability.



A specific variation exists for the Seaemerald model, which is offered with a green NATO strap in addition to the bracelet option. The NATO strap provides a more casual, military-inspired look and is known for its security and comfort, particularly in wet conditions. This variety of strap and bracelet options further underscores the SUB 200's adaptability to different situations and styles.



Functionally, the watch retains all the necessary dive watch features. The 200-meter water resistance rating, secured by the robust case construction and screw-down crown, makes it suitable for scuba diving. The unidirectional rotating bezel is paramount for dive safety, allowing the wearer to track elapsed time underwater by aligning the bezel's zero marker with the minute hand. Its unidirectional nature prevents accidental adjustments that could overestimate remaining dive time.



The introduction of the steel bezel enhances the SUB 200's position as a versatile timepiece. While fully capable as a dive tool, its updated aesthetic, particularly with the polished steel catching the light, allows it to transition smoothly into everyday life. It can be worn confidently in urban environments, at the office, or during weekend activities, offering a blend of sporty capability and contemporary style. This duality is a key strength of the SUB 200 line.



The expansion comprises 16 new references added to the permanent DOXA collection. This significant increase in options provides consumers with considerable choice regarding dial color, bezel type (steel or sapphire across the wider SUB 200 range), and strap/bracelet configuration. It reflects DOXA's commitment to building upon its successful models and catering to diverse customer preferences within its established design language.



This launch reinforces DOXA's identity as a Swiss, family-owned brand focused on its watchmaking heritage while embracing subtle aesthetic updates. The SUB 200 with the steel bezel is presented as an embodiment of this ongoing evolution, offering a refined look without straying from the functional principles that define a DOXA SUB. The brand continues to target those seeking adventure, providing reliable tools for exploration, whether underwater or in daily life.



Considering the combination of features – Swiss automatic movement, 200m water resistance, robust stainless steel construction, multiple dial colors, strap/bracelet options, and now the choice of a polished steel bezel – the SUB 200 presents a compelling package. Its design aims for comfort across various wrist sizes, enhancing its appeal as a daily wearer. The watch manages to blend technical sophistication with accessible style.



The new DOXA SUB 200 Steel Bezel models are available starting May 5, 2025. They can be purchased through authorized DOXA retailers and directly from the official DOXA website. Pricing starts at CHF 920.00, EUR 970.00, or USD 920.00 for the Seaemerald model on a NATO strap. Models on the FKM rubber strap are priced at CHF 1,050.00 / EUR 1,110.00 / USD 1,050.00, while those on the stainless steel "beads of rice" bracelet cost CHF 1,090.00 / EUR 1,150.00 / USD 1,090.00.



Case: Stainless steel case, 42.5mm diameter. Features a unidirectional rotating bezel with a new polished steel insert. Water resistant to 200 meters.

Movement: Swiss automatic movement.

Dial: Available in eight colorways: Professional (Orange), Sharkhunter (Black), Searambler (Silver), Caribbean (Navy Blue), Divingstar (Yellow), Aquamarine (Turquoise), Whitepearl (White), Seaemerald (Green). Features luminous hands and markers.

Strap: Options include a stainless steel "beads of rice" bracelet, color-matched FKM rubber straps (available in standard and small sizes), or a green NATO strap (for Seaemerald model only).

Price: Starts at CHF 920.00 / EUR 970.00 / USD 920.00 (NATO); CHF 1,050.00 / EUR 1,110.00 / USD 1,050.00 (Rubber); CHF 1,090.00 / EUR 1,150.00 / USD 1,090.00 (Bracelet).

Reference Number: Multiple references available depending on dial color and strap choice (e.g., 796.10.351.10, 796.10.351.21, 796.10.101.10, etc.).

Notes: Main update is the introduction of the polished steel bezel insert, providing a brighter, more contemporary look compared to the existing sapphire option. This launch adds 16 new references across all 8 DOXA colorways. Available from May 5, 2025.