Christopher Ward x Studio Underd0g The Alliance 02

Contemporary horology is often defined by a rigid adherence to the wristwatch form factor, with deviations typically dismissed as novelty or staunch traditionalism. However, the unexpected union of two distinct British entities has produced an object that challenges this pervasive norm, offering a tactile experience that bridges the gap between historical instrumentation and modern design irreverence. The Alliance 02, a collaborative effort between Christopher Ward and Studio Underd0g, emerges not merely as a timekeeping device but as a deliberate disruption of the status quo. It represents a convergence of technical industrial capacity and avant-garde aesthetic sensibilities, packaged within the seemingly anachronistic vessel of a pocket watch. This release, limited strictly to one hundred pieces, serves as a tangible manifesto for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, demonstrating that the sector’s vitality lies in its ability to reinterpret the past rather than simply repeat it.



The genesis of this project can be traced back to the initial success of the Alliance 01, a previous collaboration that highlighted a voracious appetite among collectors for unified British watchmaking efforts. While that predecessor revived the jump-hour complication, the Alliance 02 seeks to resurrect a format that has largely been dormant in the mainstream consciousness for nearly a century. The decision to engineer a pocket watch in the third decade of the twenty-first century is an exercise in audacity. It was conceived during a dialogue between Mike France of Christopher Ward and Richard Benc of Studio Underd0g, born from a desire to create something that defied the predictable trajectory of commercial partnerships. The resulting object is designed to be worn with casual attire, effectively stripping the pocket watch of its waistcoat-and-monocle connotations and placing it firmly in the context of denim and sneakers.



Visually, the watch commands attention through a dial architecture that is both structurally complex and playfully executed. The face of the instrument is a study in stratification, utilizing a sandwich construction method that creates genuine depth and parallax. The foundational layer is a brass base, treated with a gradient finish that transitions from a pale, creamy center to a warmer, saturated apricot hue at the periphery. This colorway, referred to as "Lemonade," is a hallmark of Studio Underd0g’s approach to color theory, bringing a vibrant, citrus-infused energy to a medium often associated with stark whites and conservative silvers. This gradient does not merely sit flatly; it interacts with the light to create a sense of volume, drawing the eye inward toward the central cannon pinion.



Hovering above this colorful base is a suspended disc crafted from sapphire crystal, measuring 1.4mm in thickness. This transparent upper stratum carries the printed Roman numeral hour markers, the minute track, and the dual branding of the two manufacturers. The use of sapphire for the dial surface serves a distinct optical purpose: it allows the numerals to cast literal shadows onto the colored brass base below. As the viewing angle shifts or the light source moves, these shadows dance across the "Lemonade" surface, creating a dynamic interplay between the markings and their background. It provides a three-dimensional quality that a standard printed dial simply cannot replicate, giving the impression that the timekeeping elements are floating in a suspended animation above the movement.



The handset chosen for this piece is polished and faceted, designed to catch available light and maintain legibility against the complex background. The hour and minute hands are slender, tapering to fine points that reach out to the floating minute track on the sapphire periphery. At the six o'clock position, a sub-dial interrupts the primary surface, but it offers more utility than a simple running seconds display. This register serves as a power reserve indicator, a critical feature for a manual-wind instrument with such an extensive mainspring capacity. The track is marked clearly from zero to five, indicating the days of autonomy remaining, with a red zone warning the user when energy is critically low. The small hand within this sub-dial mirrors the finish of the main hands, maintaining a cohesive visual language across the entire face.



When ambient light levels drop, the Alliance 02 undergoes a radical visual transformation, shifting from a piece of playful design to a functional light sculpture. The brass base dial is coated with seven meticulously applied layers of custom Super-LumiNova. Unlike traditional applications where the indices glow against a dark dial, this configuration inverts the relationship. The entire background erupts in a potent, radioactive green luminescence, backlighting the floating sapphire disc. Consequently, the Roman numerals and minute track, which are opaque, appear as stark silhouettes against a bed of intense light. This "architectural light sculpture" effect ensures that the watch is not only legible in total darkness but becomes a beacon, emphasizing the depth between the sapphire layer and the luminescent base.



Encasing this elaborate dial construction is a 44mm stainless steel housing that utilizes Christopher Ward’s "Light-catcher" geometry. This case design is renowned for its complex arrangement of brushed and polished surfaces, intended to manipulate light and reduce the visual mass of the watch. In a pocket watch configuration, these lines take on a new character. The absence of lugs simplifies the silhouette, allowing the focus to remain on the circular perfection of the vessel. The crown is situated at the traditional twelve o'clock position, surrounded by a robust bow that articulates to accommodate the attachment of a lanyard or chain. The crown itself is oversized, a necessary ergonomic feature that facilitates the winding of the substantial mainsprings within, offering a tactile connection to the mechanics that automatic winding rotors often obscure.



The tactile experience of the Alliance 02 is a significant component of its appeal. With a weight of 88 grams including the strap, it possesses a reassuring density without being burdensome. The smooth, cool steel of the case contrasts with the warmth of the sapphire crystal, creating an object that invites handling. It is designed to be held in the palm, a gesture that encourages a momentary pause in the wearer’s day. Checking the time on a pocket watch is a deliberate action, distinct from the reflexive glance at a wrist. It requires intention—retrieving the object, orienting it, and reading the dial—a ritual that re-establishes a physical relationship with the passage of time.



Internally, the Alliance 02 is powered by the Calibre CW-001, a movement formerly known as the SH21. This mechanism is a cornerstone of modern British horology, representing the first commercially viable mechanical movement created by a British brand in five decades upon its initial release. It is a hand-wound engine of considerable prowess, boasting a chronometer-grade architecture (though not COSC certified in this specific iteration) and a twin-barrel construction. These twin mainspring barrels are the secret behind the movement’s impressive 120-hour power reserve. This five-day autonomy is particularly advantageous for a pocket watch, which may not be carried every day; it can sit on a desk or in a drawer for the better part of a week and continue to keep accurate time without intervention.



The view through the exhibition caseback reveals the industrial beauty of the CW-001. The movement fills the case well, a benefit of its origins as a robust caliber designed for large wristwatches. The bridges are finished with a focus on structural integrity and clean aesthetics, showcasing the matte surfacing and polished bevels that characterize high-end engineering. The balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz), ensuring a smooth sweep of the hands and high positional accuracy. The engraving on the plates identifies the collaborative nature of the piece, forever linking the two brands in metal. Seeing the gear train and the winding mechanism in action provides a direct visual link to the energy being stored and released, demystifying the heartbeat of the machine.



To modernize the method of carriage, the traditional metallic Albert chain has been eschewed in favor of a braided leather lanyard. This accessory, rendered in a versatile brown tone, attaches to the bow via a secure loop, allowing the watch to be tethered to a belt loop or simply retrieved easily from a pocket. The leather braid offers a softer, more contemporary texture than a metal chain, aligning with the "sneakers and denim" ethos of the project. It reduces the formality of the object, making it feel more like a personal talisman or a piece of everyday carry gear rather than a costume prop from a period drama. The interplay of the leather’s organic texture against the cold precision of the steel case adds another layer of sensory detail to the ownership experience.



Furthermore, the Alliance 02 is designed to inhabit spaces outside the pocket. Included with each example is a bespoke bamboo desk stand, crafted by the same suppliers responsible for Christopher Ward’s sustainable packaging. This simple yet elegant plinth allows the watch to function as a desk clock when not in use. By placing the watch on the stand, the user can appreciate the "Lemonade" dial and the floating indices throughout the working day. It transforms the watch from a concealed accessory into a piece of stationary interior design, allowing the light to play across the sapphire crystal and highlighting the depth of the dial construction even when the owner is not traveling.



The collaboration itself was characterized by an uncommon level of transparency and resource sharing. Rather than a superficial branding exercise where one logo is slapped next to another, the development of the Alliance 02 involved the open exchange of technical files, iterative design discussions, and shared manufacturing responsibilities. Studio Underd0g, which has grown to become a significant independent assembler in the UK, managed the final assembly of these watches in partnership with Horologium. This facility, located in Maidenhead, is geographically close to Christopher Ward’s headquarters, facilitating a seamless workflow that underscores the "local" nature of this British project. The partnership is a testament to the idea that the industry thrives on cooperation rather than isolationism.



The charitable aspect of this release is central to its existence. All profits generated from the sale of the Alliance 02 are donated directly to the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. This trade body, founded in 2020, has been instrumental in revitalizing the sector, championing everything from educational programs and apprenticeships to the global promotion of British brands. With a membership that has swelled to nearly two thousand, the Alliance works to create a sustainable ecosystem for horology in the UK. By purchasing this watch, collectors are essentially funding the future of the industry, supporting initiatives like British Watchmakers’ Day and lobbying efforts that protect and promote domestic craftsmanship.



The choice of the "Lemonade" theme is also a nod to the distinct design language Richard Benc has cultivated at Studio Underd0g. His brand has become famous for using food-inspired motifs to disrupt the often serious and somber tone of the watch industry. By applying this playful, vibrant aesthetic to a Christopher Ward product—a brand known for its technical rigour and value proposition—the collaboration creates a hybrid that possesses the strengths of both parents. It has the whimsical, unexpected character of an Underd0g release, backed by the industrial might and engineering provenance of Christopher Ward’s supply chain and movement development.



The technical specifications of the watch reinforce its status as a serious timekeeper. The case is water-resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters), a respectable rating for a pocket watch that ensures protection against accidental splashes or exposure to rain. The timing tolerance is regulated to -4/+6 seconds per day, a standard that rivals many certified chronometers. The movement contains 33 jewels and comprises approximately 198 parts, a complexity that belies the calm simplicity of the dial. Every element, from the screw-down caseback to the tactile ridges on the winding crown, has been considered to ensure longevity and performance.



The exclusivity of the Alliance 02 adds to its allure. With only 100 pieces being manufactured, it is destined to become a rarity in the horological world. This low production number is not merely a marketing tactic but a reflection of the specialized nature of the product and the desire to keep the release special for the members of the Alliance. It ensures that each owner possesses a unique fragment of this specific moment in British watchmaking history, a souvenir of a time when the industry decided to have fun with its heritage rather than be constrained by it.



In an era where digital devices have rendered mechanical timekeeping technically obsolete, the Alliance 02 makes a compelling case for the emotional and aesthetic value of the analog. It does not try to compete with a smartphone for accuracy or convenience. Instead, it offers an escape from the digital tether, a mechanical companion that operates on the energy provided by the human hand. The act of winding the watch every few days becomes a ritual of connection, a reminder of the intricate engineering ticking away inside the steel case. It is a celebration of mechanics, materials, and the enduring appeal of a beautifully made object.



The visual presence of the watch is undeniable, but its true significance lies in what it represents for the British watch industry. It is a symbol of a sector that is confident, collaborative, and willing to take risks. It demonstrates that British watchmaking is not just about preserving the methods of the past but about interpreting them for a new generation of enthusiasts. The Alliance 02 is a bridge between the heritage of English pocket watches and the vibrant, design-led future of the current independent scene. It creates a lineage that connects the master watchmakers of the 19th century with the creative entrepreneurs of the 21st.



For the collector, the Alliance 02 offers a rare combination of provenance, performance, and personality. It is a conversation starter, an object that invites questions and demands inspection. Whether sitting on a desk, tucked into a pocket, or held in the hand, it asserts its presence through color, light, and mechanical sound. It is a pocket watch that refuses to be stuffy, a serious horological instrument that refuses to take itself too seriously. It is, in every sense, a bright spot in the landscape of modern collecting.



Acquiring the Alliance 02 requires more than just capital; it requires participation in the community it supports. The watch is priced at $4,150.00 and is available exclusively to members of the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. Prospective buyers must ensure their membership is active and pre-register their interest via the official portal. The purchasing window opens at 3pm GMT on December 11th, and given the scarcity of the production run and the reception of the previous collaboration, securing one will likely require prompt action. This barrier to entry ensures that the watches end up in the hands of true enthusiasts who support the broader mission of the Alliance.



Case: 44mm diameter, 13.25mm height, stainless steel Light-catcher™ design with brushed and polished surfaces. Features a screw-down exhibition caseback, oversized crown, 5 ATM (50m) water resistance, and weighs 80g (88g including strap).

Movement: In-house hand-wound Calibre CW-001 (formerly SH21) featuring twin barrels for a 120-hour power reserve and power reserve indicator. Chronometer-grade architecture with 33 jewels, beating at 28,800 vph (4Hz) with a timing tolerance of -4/+6 seconds per day.

Dial: "Lemonade" gradient brass base dial coated with seven layers of custom Super-LumiNova®. Features a floating 1.4mm sapphire upper disc with printed Roman numerals and minute track, creating a shadow effect.

Strap: Brown braided leather lanyard strap intended to function as a modern pocket watch chain.

Price: $4,150.00

Reference Number: C01-44HPR-AL02-BT

Notes: Limited to 100 pieces worldwide and available only to registered Alliance members. Includes a bespoke bamboo desk stand for display; all profits benefit the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers.