In the sphere of high-end watchmaking, collaborations often serve as a testament to shared philosophies, a meeting of minds where distinct traditions converge to create something new. The Chopard L.U.C XP Nihonto is a profound example of this principle, representing a confluence of meticulous Swiss horological engineering and the ancient, deeply spiritual Japanese art of sword-making. This timepiece is not merely inspired by Japanese culture; it physically incorporates a material steeped in history and honor, Tamahagane steel. The creation is a dialogue between the mechanical precision perfected in the workshops of Chopard Manufacture and the patient, masterful hand of an artisan dedicated to a craft passed down through generations. It explores the idea that true craftsmanship, whether shaping a gear train or forging steel, is born from a shared foundation of discipline, patience, and an unwavering pursuit of perfection.
For Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Co-President of Chopard, this creation is the culmination of a personal journey spanning more than four decades. His regular visits to Japan fostered a deep admiration for a culture that seamlessly blends function with artistry, where everyday objects are elevated through an intense focus on detail and process. This reverence for Japanese craftsmanship, where humility and skill unite, found a natural echo in the ethos of his own L.U.C collection. Since its inception, the L.U.C line has been the pinnacle of Chopard’s in-house capabilities, representing a sincere and demanding vision of watchmaking. It is within this framework of horological integrity that the idea for the L.U.C XP Nihonto could take root, bridging the geographical and cultural distance between Geneva and Japan through a mutual respect for mastery.
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The very soul of this limited edition timepiece resides in its dial, a surface that tells a story of fire, force, and philosophy. The dial is crafted from damascened steel, forged using a method inspired by the production of Tamahagane, the sacred steel used to create the legendary Japanese swords, or nihonto. In Japanese tradition, a sword is far more than a weapon; it is considered the physical embodiment of the samurai's spirit, a representation of honor, courage, and discipline. The material itself is born from a grueling process, starting with sponge iron heated to temperatures exceeding 1000°C. This raw material is painstakingly selected, stacked, and hammer-welded, layer upon layer, in a repetitive and demanding forging cycle that requires years of experience to master.
To bring this ancient technique to a watch dial required a specialist of incredible skill. The dials for the L.U.C XP Nihonto are produced at the Corcelles forge in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, by an artisan who has dedicated decades to understanding and perfecting Japanese forging methods. Each small disc of steel that becomes a dial is composed of between 120 and 160 individual layers. Every layer holds the memory of the fire it was born in and the hammer that shaped it. The process is not one of simple repetition but of controlled chaos, resulting in a unique surface pattern for every single dial. This inherent individuality ensures that no two watches in this 25-piece edition are exactly alike, each possessing its own distinct spirit.
Visually, the dial presents a captivating spectacle of controlled complexity. Its surface is a tapestry of moiré patterns, with swirling volutes, undulating waves, and flowing lines that ripple across the dark grey landscape. The layers of steel manifest as a complex, almost organic grain, reminiscent of polished wood or contoured geological formations. The patterns are not merely decorative; they are the literal cross-section of the forging process, revealing the structure of the metal itself. This dynamic surface interacts with light in a subtle yet profound way, with certain layers catching the light while others remain in shadow, creating a sense of depth and movement. This visual effect connects directly to the Zen philosophy of impermanence, reflecting the ever-changing nature of existence within a fixed object.
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The aesthetic of the dial is framed by a case of refined proportions and material. The 40.00 mm case is crafted from 18-carat ethical white gold, a material choice that reflects Chopard’s long-standing commitment to responsible and sustainable sourcing. The diameter provides a contemporary presence on the wrist, while the remarkable slimness of just 8.28 mm ensures it sits comfortably and discreetly, aligning with the watch's sophisticated character. The case finishing is a study in subtle contrasts, with the top of the bezel and the caseback polished to a high sheen, while the vertical sides of the case-middle feature a fine satin-brushed texture. This interplay of finishes adds a layer of visual interest and demonstrates an acute attention to detail.
The overall design coherence extends to every element. The crown, also in 18-carat white gold, is appropriately sized for the case and features a cleanly engraved L.U.C logo, a signature of the collection. Protecting the intricate dial is a flat sapphire crystal treated with an anti-glare coating to ensure maximum legibility from all angles. An exhibition caseback, fitted with its own sapphire crystal, offers an unobstructed view of the mechanical heart beating within, allowing the owner to appreciate the fine craftsmanship of the movement just as much as the artistic dial on the front. With a water resistance of 30 metres, the watch is suited for daily wear, though its true home is in environments where its unique character can be appreciated.
While the dial is a tribute to Japanese artistry, the movement is a pure expression of Swiss watchmaking expertise from Chopard Manufacture. The L.U.C XP Nihonto is powered by the calibre L.U.C 96.41-L, an ultra-thin, self-winding movement that is an evolution of the very first calibre the Manufacture introduced back in 1996. The engineering prowess is immediately evident in its dimensions; the entire movement measures just 3.30 mm in thickness. This slim profile is the key to achieving the watch's svelte case proportions and is made possible by the clever integration of an off-centre micro-rotor for automatic winding.
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The micro-rotor is a significant feature, both technically and aesthetically. Machined from a solid block of 22-carat ethical yellow gold, its high density and inertia allow it to wind the mainsprings with exceptional efficiency despite its small size. This design choice prevents an oscillating weight from obscuring the view of the movement's architecture, keeping the bridges and other components fully visible through the exhibition caseback. The golden hue of the rotor provides a warm contrast against the rhodium-plated bridges, creating a visually pleasing focal point engraved with the historic L.U.C insignia.
Despite its slender build, the L.U.C 96.41-L movement does not compromise on performance. It houses two barrels, which are stacked one atop the other using Chopard’s proprietary Twin technology. This innovative configuration allows the movement to store enough energy for a substantial power reserve of 65 hours. This means the watch can be taken off on a Friday evening and put back on Monday morning without needing to be rewound or reset, a practical convenience that enhances the ownership experience. The movement operates at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), ensuring reliable and precise timekeeping.
The commitment to excellence that defines the L.U.C collection is perhaps most apparent in the finishing of the movement. Adhering to the highest standards of traditional watchmaking, the artisans at Chopard Manufacture have meticulously decorated every visible component. The bridges are adorned with a classic Côtes de Genève pattern, a series of delicate parallel stripes that create a beautiful play of light. All edges of the bridges are carefully chamfered and polished, a painstaking manual process that removes sharp angles and creates clean, reflective bevels. This level of hand-finishing is a hallmark of haute horlogerie and is a key criterion for one of the industry's most respected accolades.
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The complete mastery of Chopard Manufacture, from conception and development to assembly and decoration, is formally recognized by the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. This quality hallmark, also known as the Geneva Seal, is stamped on both the main bridge of the movement and the caseback of the watch. It serves as an independent certification that the timepiece meets a stringent set of criteria governing the quality, craftsmanship, and reliable performance of watches assembled within the Canton of Geneva. The seal, which depicts the coat of arms of Geneva with its golden key and eagle, is a guarantee to the owner that their timepiece represents the pinnacle of regional watchmaking tradition.
Returning to the face of the watch, the dial’s complex pattern is balanced by a display of clean simplicity. The hour markers are minimalist, rhodium-plated batons that are applied to the dial, providing a sharp, geometric counterpoint to the organic flow of the damascened steel. At the center, a pair of Dauphine fusée hands indicate the hours and minutes. This style of hand is characterized by its sharp facets, which catch the light and enhance legibility while contributing to the watch's refined character. The absence of a seconds hand or a date window keeps the focus entirely on the extraordinary material of the dial, allowing its unique texture and pattern to be appreciated without distraction.
The watch is secured to the wrist with a strap that perfectly complements its overall aesthetic. A hand-stitched grey alligator leather strap continues the monochromatic color scheme established by the white gold case and the steel dial. Its texture adds another layer of tactile quality to the piece, while the tone-on-tone stitching maintains a sense of understated sophistication. The strap is fastened with a simple yet secure pin buckle, crafted from the same 18-carat ethical white gold as the case, ensuring a cohesive design from end to end.
Courtesy of Chopard
The Chopard L.U.C XP Nihonto is a remarkable synthesis of disparate crafts. It successfully marries the cold, calculated precision of Swiss mechanics with the fiery, intuitive process of traditional Japanese steel forging. It is a work of art that can be worn on the wrist, a constant reminder of the beauty that can be found in the intersection of cultures and the universal human dedication to perfecting a skill. The watch doesn't just tell time; it tells a story of heritage, of passion, and of the enduring value of human hands in a world increasingly dominated by machines. It is a piece for the collector who appreciates not only the technical aspects of a movement but also the soul and history embedded within the materials themselves.
As a highly specialized and artistic creation, the Chopard L.U.C XP Nihonto is offered as a limited edition of just 25 pieces worldwide. This scarcity ensures its exclusivity and underscores the unique nature of each handcrafted dial. The official reference for this model is 161986-1001. Due to the very limited production and the high level of craftsmanship involved, pricing information is typically provided upon inquiry through Chopard boutiques and authorized dealers. For the fortunate few who acquire one, it will represent a tangible link between two of the world's most revered artisanal traditions.
Case: 18-carat ethical white gold. 40.00 mm diameter, 8.28 mm thickness. Water resistance of 30 metres. Glare-proofed sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback.
Movement: Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.41-L. 65-hour power reserve with two barrels (Chopard Twin technology). 29 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency. Winding via a micro-rotor in 22-carat gold. Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.
Dial: Damascened steel. Rhodium-plated baton-type hour markers. Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée hours and minutes hands.
Strap: Grey alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching. 18-carat ethical white gold pin buckle.
Price: Upon Request
Reference Number: 161986-1001
Notes: Limited edition of 25 pieces. The dial is handcrafted from damascened steel using a method inspired by Tamahagane, the sacred steel of Japanese swords, with each dial composed of 120 to 160 layers.