The independent watchmaking scene is often defined by a singular vision, a departure from the established norms of large corporate structures. It's a space where creative freedom is not just a benefit but a necessity. This is the world from which Berneron SA emerged in September 2022. Founded by Sylvain and Marie-Alix Berneron, the company is built on a philosophy of "Derestricted horology." This isn't just a marketing tagline; it's a mission statement born from Sylvain's extensive experience as a designer for brands like BMW and, more pivotally, his time as Chief Product Officer at Breitling and a design manager within the Richemont Group. That corporate background provided invaluable insight but also illuminated the creative constraints inherent in such large organizations, ultimately fueling the desire to build something new, unencumbered, and personal.
The vision for Berneron is not one of explosive growth or market saturation. Instead, it is a carefully plotted trajectory of slow, steady, and meaningful contribution. The company has a decade-long launch sequence planned, committing to releasing one new piece every year during the first week of September. This methodical approach is designed to build a stable and coherent portfolio of collections over time, with a projected annual production of around 600 watches by 2035. This figure, modest by industry standards, underscores a commitment to quality over quantity. The business is entirely self-funded and independent, owned by the family and the team, ensuring that its direction is dictated by creative and horological principles rather than shareholder demands. This independence is further reflected in their operational ethos: all suppliers are located within a 50-kilometer radius, bolstering the local Swiss economy and minimizing the company's energy footprint.
Courtesy of Berneron
At the core of the company's structure is a principle of fair collaboration. Berneron employs a responsible salary scale, with a maximum multiple of three between the lowest and highest salaries within the company. Furthermore, after three years of service, team members are offered the opportunity to become partners, receiving equity in the company. This fosters a sense of shared ownership and dedication to the long-term success and integrity of the brand. This philosophy extends directly to the product. Each timepiece is produced in highly limited quantities—just 24 pieces per dial variant each year for a ten-year cycle. After this period, a new series is introduced, representing an evolution of its predecessor. This model ensures continuity and stability for both the brand and its collectors, creating a clear and traceable lineage for their creations.
The second major collection to emerge from this framework is the Quantième. The name, which translates to "counter," signals its focus on horological complications, specifically calendars. The collection was conceived with the ambition to establish a new benchmark in this highly technical segment of watchmaking. For two years, the team engaged in intensive research and development, guided by a single, paramount principle: the user experience. The result is the Quantième Annuel, a timepiece that addresses many of the long-standing practical challenges and anxieties associated with owning and operating a complicated calendar watch, making sophisticated mechanics genuinely suitable for daily wear.
One of the most immediate and impactful innovations of the Quantième Annuel is its approach to readability. Complicated dials can often become cluttered and difficult to interpret at a glance. Berneron tackled this by completely redesigning the dial architecture to create a more intuitive and fluid interaction. The layout follows a logical sequence. Time-telling functions are read vertically, from top to bottom: a large jumping hour aperture sits at the 12 o'clock position, with the central hands indicating the minutes and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock. The calendar information, conversely, is read horizontally, from left to right: a window for the day, a retrograde hand for the date along a central arc, and a window for the month. This sequenced layout, combined with significantly enlarged apertures, makes deciphering the full range of information effortless.
Beyond legibility, the brand placed immense focus on the setting procedure. Highly complicated calendars are notoriously finicky; setting one often involves consulting a user manual, using special styluses for recessed correctors, and a process that can take a considerable amount of time. Berneron's guiding philosophy for the Caliber 595 was "less time setting than winding." To achieve this, the controls are integrated into the case band in the most intuitive way possible. The time and the retrograde date are both set using the crown, which can be adjusted forwards and backward just like a standard three-hand watch. For the day and month adjustments, two smooth, oblong pushers are seamlessly integrated into the case flanks, each one corresponding to the nearest aperture, allowing for simple, direct correction without the need for any special tools.
Courtesy of Berneron
Perhaps the most significant user-centric feature is the movement's built-in safety mechanism. Calendar watches have a well-earned reputation for being fragile. Accidentally attempting to adjust the date during its automatic changeover period around midnight can cause significant damage to the delicate internal mechanisms, necessitating an expensive and inconvenient trip back to the manufacturer. The Caliber 595 is equipped with a clever safety device that eliminates this risk. In the event of accidental tampering during the setting process, the mechanism is designed to default to a logical state. For example, if a user mistakenly pushes the month corrector while the date is on January 31st, the watch will not attempt to advance to a non-existent 31st day of the next month. Instead, it will safely and automatically jump to the first day of the following month, February 1st. This break-proof system provides peace of mind, removing a major source of worry for collectors.
The case construction of the Quantième Annuel is equally innovative. The primary material is Pt950 platinum, chosen for its heft and distinctive luster. However, platinum is a relatively soft metal, making it susceptible to scratches and dings from daily wear. Repairing such marks, especially through polishing, can alter the original case geometry over time. To solve this, Berneron developed its "steel layer concept." This involves applying a thin, protective layer of highly corrosion-resistant 904L steel to the platinum case. This layer constitutes only 15% of the total mass and is composed of six distinct components covering the most common contact points. These steel parts are fully removable and replaceable, meaning that during a service, any accumulated scratches can be addressed by simply swapping out the affected steel component, leaving the core platinum case untouched. This provides the dual benefit of steel's durability with platinum's presence, neatly sidestepping the perennial "to polish or not to polish" debate.
Adding another layer of functional and historical character is the officer-style case back. This feature, originating from early pocket watches, incorporates a hinged metal cover over the sapphire exhibition window. This serves several practical purposes. First, it provides an additional layer of protection for the movement against direct impacts. Second, it shields the delicate oils and lubricants within the movement from degradation caused by long-term exposure to UV rays. Finally, it offers a personal canvas, a surface that can be engraved for its owner. Berneron's implementation is particularly refined, featuring a spring-loaded mechanism that is cleverly integrated into and activated by the crown, allowing the hinged back to be opened smoothly.
Courtesy of Berneron
At the heart of these innovations is the all-new, manually wound Caliber 595. The movement's architecture is as unique as the dial it powers. It features a "cross architecture," essentially a double regulator system—one for the timekeeping train and another for the complex calendar functions. The display is driven by a combination of four instantaneous jumping apertures (hour, day, month, and an unspecified AM/PM indicator), two sweeping hands (minutes and seconds), and one retrograde date hand. This intricate combination of displays presents a significant challenge in terms of energy management, especially at moments like midnight on December 31st, when up to five different indications must jump simultaneously.
To manage these immense and sporadic energy requirements without disrupting the watch's timekeeping accuracy, the Caliber 595 employs a sophisticated power solution. It is equipped with a double-barrel system, providing an ample 100-hour power reserve. More importantly, the movement features a construction that stores energy in four different locations, accumulating power over various cycles—over 12 hours, 24 hours, 7 days, and 31 days. This distributed storage allows the caliber to release the necessary torque to activate the various jumps precisely when needed, without causing a dip in the amplitude of the balance wheel, thus ensuring stable and accurate performance at all times.
The Caliber 595 is a substantial and complex piece of micro-engineering, composed of 476 individual components and 33 jewels. It measures 30mm in diameter and 5.95mm in thickness. The regulating organ is a free-sprung balance wheel, vibrating at a frequency of 21,600 VpH (3Hz), and it uses a traditional Swiss lever escapement. As expected from a movement of this caliber, the finishing is executed to an extremely high standard. The main plate and bridges are crafted from 18k gold, providing a warm, rich backdrop for the intricate mechanics. The decoration includes a host of traditional techniques, such as Berçage and black polish on the balance bridge, Nuagage (clouding) in the bridge pockets, Guillochage on the bridge surfaces, traits tirés (drawn lines) on the steel levers, Anglage (bevelling) on bridges and levers, and Cerclage (circular graining) on the wheels.
Visually, the Quantième Annuel is presented in two distinct dial variations. The first features a matte opaline silver dial. This version has a classic yet contemporary feel, with blued accents on the central dial portion that houses the retrograde date scale. The day and month indicators also feature this deep blue, creating a cohesive and legible color scheme. The hands are crafted from 18K white gold, and the entire dial plate is made from a solid 18K gold base. The overall impression is one of bright, architectural depth, with the multi-layered construction and various finishes playing with light in a dynamic way.
Courtesy of Berneron
The second option is a glossy lacquered black dial. This execution offers a more modern and starkly contrasted aesthetic. The deep, uniform black provides a dramatic background for the polished 18K white gold hands and the crisp white printing of the numerals and tracks. On this model, the central retrograde date track is rendered in a subtle grey, which adds a sense of dimension without detracting from the high-contrast legibility. Both dial variants share the same foundational layout, but their distinct colorways and finishing give each a unique personality.
The case that houses this intricate dial and movement is thoughtfully proportioned for a complicated timepiece. With a diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 45mm, and a thickness of just 10mm, the watch is designed to be exceptionally wearable. The compact dimensions ensure a comfortable fit on a wide range of wrists, bucking the trend of oversized and cumbersome complicated watches. The case is fitted with sapphire crystals on both the top and the exhibition window beneath the officer case back, with both crystals featuring an anti-reflective coating on their inner surfaces to reduce glare and improve clarity.
Completing the watch is a tapered Barenia leather strap, which measures 20mm at the lugs and slims down to 16mm at the buckle. The buckle itself is a simple yet robust pin-style clasp, fashioned from 904L stainless steel to match the protective steel layer on the case. The strap is designed to accommodate wrist sizes from approximately 140mm to 195mm, ensuring a good fit for most wearers.
Berneron's commitment to quality is evident in every aspect of the Quantième Annuel, from its conception to its production. The company proudly goes beyond the standard "Swiss Made" label, which requires only 60% of components to be manufactured in Switzerland. At Berneron, all components are made in the cantons of Neuchâtel and Jura, reinforcing their dedication to local craftsmanship. The extremely limited production of 24 pieces per dial color per year means that each watch carries a unique individual number.
Courtesy of Berneron
The brand also provides a comprehensive ownership experience. The watches come with a two-year warranty. When it comes to maintenance, service intervals are estimated between five and ten years, depending on usage. Berneron offers a flexible service model, allowing owners to have their watch serviced either by an experienced and trusted local watchmaker (after the brand sends a dedicated spare parts kit) or directly at their workshop in Neuchâtel, Switzerland.
To acknowledge and reward the collectors who support the brand in its early stages, Berneron has implemented a preferential pricing structure for the first few years of the Quantième Annuel's release. For deliveries in 2026, the price is set at CHF 120,000 (excluding VAT). This will increase to CHF 130,000 in 2027, before reaching its standard price of CHF 140,000 in 2028. The first deliveries of this new standard for complicated calendars are scheduled to begin in October 2026, marking another deliberate step in the brand's long-term journey.
Case: Pt950 platinum (85%) with a 6-component 904L steel layer (15%). 38mm diameter, 45mm lug-to-lug, 10mm thickness. Crown activated officer case back, sapphire crystals with inner AR coating, 30m water resistance.
Movement: Manual wound Caliber 595. Annual calendar with jumping hour and retrograde date. 18k gold main plate and bridges, 476 components, 33 jewels, 100-hour power reserve, 3Hz frequency, free-sprung balance.
Dial: 18K gold base plate in either matte opaline silver or glossy lacquered black. 18K white gold hands. Sequenced layout with top-down time reading and left-to-right date reading.
Strap: 20-16mm tapered Barenia leather strap. 904L stainless steel pin buckle. Fits wrists from approximately 140mm to 195mm.
Price: CHF 120,000 (2026) to CHF 140,000 (2028), excluding VAT.
Notes: Features a user-proof safety mechanism to prevent damage when setting the calendar. The innovative steel layer on the platinum case allows for easy replacement of scratched parts. Production is limited to 24 pieces per dial color per year.