Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 38 mm

Audemars Piguet has introduced a significant new chapter for one of its most complex and revered timepieces, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. Previously offered exclusively in a 41 mm case, the manufacturer from Le Brassus has now unveiled the complication in a more compact and versatile 38 mm diameter. This development, part of the brand's 150th-anniversary celebrations, makes this high complication accessible to a broader audience and marks a noteworthy shift towards ergonomic considerations in Haute Horlogerie. The new models are available in two distinct variations: one in robust stainless steel and another in warm 18-carat pink gold.



The history of Audemars Piguet is deeply intertwined with the development of complicated watchmaking. Established in 1875 in the Vallée de Joux, a region known as the cradle of Swiss horology, the company has remained in the hands of its founding families, a rarity in the industry. This continuous heritage has allowed for a consistent philosophy centered on pushing the boundaries of mechanical innovation. From its earliest days, the manufacture specialized in creating intricate mechanisms, including minute repeaters, chronographs, and especially, perpetual calendars. This long-standing expertise provides the foundational context for any new release, positioning each watch not just as a product, but as a continuation of a 150-year legacy.



The Royal Oak collection itself represents a pivotal moment in watch design history. When it was introduced in 1972, its bold, industrial aesthetic, conceived by legendary designer Gérald Genta, was revolutionary. The octagonal bezel inspired by a diver's helmet, the eight exposed hexagonal screws, and the seamlessly integrated bracelet defied the conventions of luxury watchmaking, which at the time favored slim, round gold watches. The Royal Oak established the category of the luxury sports watch and remains one of the most recognizable designs in the world. Placing a grand complication like the perpetual calendar within this sporty yet refined case has always been a powerful statement of versatility.



A perpetual calendar, or Quantième Perpétuel (QP), stands as one of the great classical complications. Its function is to display the correct date, day, month, and year, automatically accounting for the varying lengths of the months as well as leap years. It possesses a mechanical memory that follows the 48-month cycle of the Gregorian calendar, requiring manual correction only once a century, typically in the year 2100, which is not a leap year. This mechanical intelligence, which tracks the complex rhythms of our calendar without electronic aid, is a testament to the ingenuity and skill of watchmakers. AP’s history with this complication is particularly rich, having produced the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch with a leap year indication in 1955.



The decision to house this complication in a 38 mm case is a direct response to a growing desire for more moderately sized watches. While larger timepieces have dominated trends for years, the 38 mm diameter offers a different kind of appeal. It provides a comfortable and balanced presence on a wider range of wrist sizes, for both men and women. For a watch intended for daily wear, which a perpetual calendar by its nature is, this ergonomic consideration is paramount. It ensures the piece is not just a showcase of mechanical prowess but also a practical and wearable instrument.



The first of the new references is crafted from stainless steel, a material that is foundational to the Royal Oak's identity. The case and integrated bracelet feature the collection's signature finishing, with finely brushed surfaces contrasted by mirror-polished chamfers along the edges. This interplay of textures allows the watch to capture and reflect light in a dynamic way, highlighting the sharp, geometric lines of the design. The metalwork is meticulous, with each link of the bracelet tapering smoothly to create a fluid, comfortable fit on the wrist. The watch is rated for 50 meters of water resistance, adding a degree of practicality to its complex nature.



Visually, the stainless steel model projects a cool, contemporary character. The dial is rendered in a light blue color, executed with the iconic "Grande Tapisserie" pattern. This intricate guilloché motif, consisting of small, raised squares, adds considerable depth and texture. The three subdials for the calendar functions are snailed with a fine concentric pattern and match the primary dial color, creating a cohesive look. Readability is ensured by 18-carat white gold hands and applied hour markers, all filled with a luminescent material. The inner bezel, or flange, is a complementary silver-grey, framing the dial without overpowering it. The overall impression is one of technical precision and understated visual appeal.



In contrast, the second reference offers a markedly different personality through its use of 18-carat pink gold. The entire case and bracelet are made from this precious metal, radiating a warm and substantial presence. The finishing is identical to its steel counterpart, but the effect on pink gold is arguably more pronounced. The brushed surfaces take on a soft, satin sheen, while the polished chamfers gleam with a rich luster. This version feels luxurious yet retains the inherent sportiness of the Royal Oak design, demonstrating the versatility of Genta's original concept.



The dial of the pink gold model is a beige "Grande Tapisserie," creating a soft, tonal harmony with the case metal. The snailed subdials are also beige, continuing the monochromatic theme. The hands and hour markers are crafted from 18-carat pink gold to match the case, ensuring a unified aesthetic. A striking point of contrast is the moon phase display at the 6 o'clock position. The disc is a deep blue, representing the night sky, upon which a photorealistic moon is depicted. This splash of color adds a point of focus and visual interest to the otherwise warm palette of the dial.



One of the key updates across these new models is the reorganized dial layout, designed to improve symmetry and intuitive reading. The indications have been thoughtfully repositioned. The day of the week is now located at 9 o'clock, the date at 12 o'clock, and the month at 3 o'clock. This arrangement creates a balanced horizontal axis for the primary calendar functions. At 12 o'clock, the date is shown on a patented progressive display system using a 31-tooth wheel where each tooth's size varies to better accommodate the numerals, enhancing legibility.



To further balance the dial, a 24-hour indication has been integrated into the day subdial at 9 o'clock. This is paired symmetrically with the leap year indicator, which is housed within the month subdial at 3 o'clock. The moon phase display at 6 o'clock, which uses a realistic image of the moon based on a NASA photograph, has been centered so that the full moon aligns perfectly with the 12 o'clock axis of the subdial, contributing to the overall visual harmony. A subtle but important detail is a red zone on the 24-hour indicator, which highlights the period between 9 pm and 3 am when the calendar should not be manually adjusted.



Powering these timepieces is the new Selfwinding Calibre 7136. This movement represents a significant leap forward in user-friendliness for a perpetual calendar. Traditionally, adjusting a QP requires the use of small push-pieces, or correctors, set into the side of the case, which are operated with a special stylus. This process can be cumbersome and risks damaging the delicate mechanism if performed incorrectly. Audemars Piguet's engineers have eliminated these correctors entirely, developing an innovative system where all adjustments are controlled through the crown.



This new system is both simple and intuitive. The crown has four distinct positions. In its default position (position 1), it can be turned clockwise to wind the watch. Pulled out to the first stop (position 2), turning it clockwise sets the date, while turning it counter-clockwise adjusts the month and leap year. The next position (position 3) is for setting the time. A fourth intermediate position (position 2'), achieved by pushing the crown back in one notch from the time-setting position, allows for the adjustment of the day (clockwise) and the moon phase (counter-clockwise). This entire system, protected by two patents, makes setting a fully stopped perpetual calendar a straightforward process that requires no tools.



The architecture of Calibre 7136 is based on the brand's modern Calibre 7121. It builds upon the innovations first seen in the ultra-thin RD#2 prototype, where all perpetual calendar functions were integrated onto a single level to reduce thickness. The entire movement measures a slim 4.1 mm thick, which allows the complete watch to have a case thickness of just 9.4 mm—remarkably slender for such a complicated automatic watch. The movement operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and provides a minimum power reserve of 55 hours, offering a solid combination of precision and autonomy.



The view through the glare-proofed sapphire crystal caseback is as compelling as the dial. The movement is finished to the high standards of the manufacture. The large, 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight is skeletonized and decorated, providing an unobstructed view of the components beneath. The bridges are adorned with traditional decorative techniques such as Côtes de Genève, satin-finishing, and circular graining, while the edges are beveled and polished (chamfering). These meticulous details are not merely aesthetic; they are a hallmark of Haute Horlogerie, reflecting the immense amount of hand-finishing that goes into each caliber.



As these watches are being released during the brand's 150th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has also created limited-edition versions of each model. These special editions, produced in runs of 150 pieces each, feature subtle design cues to mark the occasion. A vintage "Audemars Piguet" signature, drawn from archival documents, is added to the moon-phase display. The caseback of these limited pieces will bear two additional engravings: a "150" logo and the inscription "1 of 150 pieces," making them distinct from the standard production models.



The bracelet of the Royal Oak is an integral part of its design and feel. Both the stainless steel and 18-carat pink gold versions are fitted with the iconic integrated bracelet that flows seamlessly from the case. The construction is complex, with each link having a distinct trapezoidal shape that tapers towards the clasp. This design allows the bracelet to conform perfectly to the curve of the wrist, providing exceptional comfort. The bracelet is secured with a three-blade folding clasp that is both secure and discreet.



The technical specifications of the Calibre 7136 are impressive for its size. The movement has a total diameter of 29.6 mm and is composed of 413 individual parts. It contains 41 jewels, which are synthetic rubies placed at high-friction points to reduce wear and improve the movement's longevity and performance. The guaranteed power reserve of 55 hours means the watch can be taken off for a full two days without needing to be wound or reset, a convenience that owners of automatic watches appreciate.



These new 38 mm perpetual calendars successfully merge Audemars Piguet’s historical mastery of complications with the legendary design of the Royal Oak and a modern focus on ergonomics and user experience. They represent a thoughtful evolution, opening up the world of grand complications to enthusiasts who may have found the previous 41 mm size too large. The combination of a smaller case, an innovative and intuitive setting mechanism, and the choice between classic steel or luxurious pink gold makes for a compelling proposition.



Information regarding the availability of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar 38 mm is managed directly through the brand’s network of boutiques. As with most high-demand pieces from the manufacture, prospective buyers will need to inquire with Audemars Piguet to express interest. In a notable pricing strategy, both the stainless steel reference and the 18-carat pink gold version are positioned at the same price point of $110,900. This pricing reflects the watch’s complex movement and high level of finishing, placing it firmly at the upper end of the luxury watch market and making the choice between the two models a matter of aesthetic preference rather than cost.



Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar / 38 mm (Stainless Steel)



Case: Stainless steel; 38 mm diameter x 9.4 mm thickness; glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback; water resistance 50 m.

Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 7136; 55-hour power reserve; 4 Hz frequency (28,800 vph); perpetual calendar with day, date, 24-hour, moon phase, month, leap year.

Dial: Light blue with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern; 18-carat white gold hands and hour markers with luminescent coating; silver-grey inner bezel.

Strap: Integrated stainless steel bracelet with three-blade folding clasp.

Price: $110,900

Reference Number: 26684ST.OO.1356ST.01

Notes: Features a new ergonomic system allowing all perpetual calendar functions to be set via the crown, eliminating the need for case-side correctors. A 150th anniversary limited edition of 150 pieces is also available (Ref. 26684ST.OO.1356ST.02).





Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar / 38 mm (18-carat Pink Gold)



Case: 18-carat pink gold; 38 mm diameter x 9.4 mm thickness; glareproofed sapphire crystal and caseback; water resistance 50 m.

Movement: Selfwinding Calibre 7136; 55-hour power reserve; 4 Hz frequency (28,800 vph); perpetual calendar with day, date, 24-hour, moon phase, month, leap year.

Dial: Beige with “Grande Tapisserie” pattern; 18-carat pink gold hands and hour markers with luminescent coating; 18-carat pink gold-toned inner bezel.

Strap: Integrated 18-carat pink gold bracelet with three-blade folding clasp.

Price: $110,900

Reference Number: 26684OR.OO.1356OR.01

Notes: Features a new ergonomic system allowing all perpetual calendar functions to be set via the crown, eliminating the need for case-side correctors. A 150th anniversary limited edition of 150 pieces is also available (Ref. 26684OR.OO.1356OR.02).