Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold

In the sphere of independent watchmaking, certain creations distinguish themselves not merely by their function, but by a profound and visible dedication to the principles of mechanical integrity. The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold emerges as a powerful statement piece, one that lays its intricate inner workings bare for the wearer to behold. This timepiece is an exercise in horological transparency, combining the warm, radiant hue of 18K rose gold with a complex, multi-layered movement architecture that prioritizes ultimate chronometric performance through innovative engineering. It represents a convergence of classical craft and forward-thinking mechanical solutions, resulting in a watch that is as intellectually stimulating as it is visually compelling.



At the very core of Armin Strom's approach to horology is the "Mechanics First" philosophy. This is not a mere marketing slogan but the foundational principle that dictates every aspect of their design and construction process. For the manufacture, the movement is not something to be hidden behind a solid dial, but rather the main event, the very soul of the watch that deserves to be celebrated. This philosophy mandates that the technical components are not only functionally superb but also aesthetically arranged to form a cohesive, sculptural whole. In the Gravity Equal Force, this means the bridges, barrel, and micro-rotor are positioned with deliberate symmetry and depth, creating a visual narrative of the forces at play within the timepiece.



Powering this intricate machine is the Caliber ASB19, a movement that holds a significant place in the brand's history and in the broader context of modern watchmaking. It is the first automatic caliber to successfully incorporate a stop-work declutch mechanism in conjunction with a Geneva cross directly within the mainspring barrel. This is not an incremental improvement; it is a fundamental re-engineering of how power is delivered in a mechanical watch. This patented system directly addresses one of the oldest and most persistent challenges in horology: the diminishing force of a mainspring as it unwinds. By solving this, Armin Strom achieves a level of precision that remains remarkably consistent over the entire duration of its power reserve.



The pursuit of consistent timekeeping, or isochronism, hinges on the delivery of a steady, unwavering stream of energy from the mainspring to the escapement. In a standard mechanical watch, the mainspring delivers a great deal of torque when fully wound and a significantly weaker stream of torque as it nears the end of its reserve. This fluctuation can cause variations in the watch's rate, affecting its accuracy. The Gravity Equal Force system is designed specifically to counteract this entropy. It ensures that the regulating organ, the balance wheel, receives the same optimal amount of force from the moment the watch is fully wound until it stops, leading to superior chronometric stability.



The genius of the Caliber ASB19 lies in its patented equal force barrel. This system cleverly utilizes a stop-work mechanism, a feature with roots in historical marine chronometers, but reimagined for a modern wristwatch. This mechanism only allows the mainspring to operate within its most optimal, flattest torque curve, effectively preventing the section of the power reserve where torque delivery is weakest from ever being used. A Geneva cross, visible on the barrel, helps achieve this by limiting the number of barrel rotations. The declutch feature ensures that when the watch is being wound, the mainspring can be fully replenished without overriding the stop-work, a sophisticated solution that showcases the brand's technical prowess.



The practical benefit of this complex engineering is a power reserve of 72 hours, during which the watch maintains a high degree of chronometric consistency. The wearer is assured that the time displayed on the dial is a reliable measure, not one subject to the whims of a depleting power source. This three-day reserve also adds a layer of convenience, allowing the owner to set the watch aside for a weekend and find it still running accurately on Monday morning, a testament to both its endurance and its precision.



To power this advanced movement without obscuring its beauty, Armin Strom opted for a micro-rotor for the automatic winding system. Positioned on the dial side of the movement, the small oscillating weight efficiently harnesses the kinetic energy of the wearer's wrist to wind the mainspring. Its compact size and placement are crucial, as a traditional, larger central rotor would have completely covered the meticulously finished components and disrupted the carefully planned symmetry of the movement's architecture. The micro-rotor thus serves a dual purpose: providing the convenience of automatic winding while preserving the visual integrity of the "Mechanics First" design.



A significant element of the watch's visual identity comes from the exceptional level of craft applied to its components, a process that involves collaboration with other masters of the trade. The mainplate, which forms the backdrop for the entire mechanical assembly, is decorated with a "grain d’orge," or barleycorn, guilloché pattern. This intricate engraving is not stamped or created by modern CNC machines but is painstakingly cut by hand on a traditional rose engine lathe operated by the celebrated watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. This touch imbues the watch with a sense of artistic heritage and manual dexterity, creating a texture that beautifully catches and plays with light. The plate itself is treated with a brown PVD coating, providing a rich, earthy tone that contrasts elegantly with the rose gold of the case and bridges.



This dedication to finishing extends to every visible part of the movement. The three prominent bridges that span the dial side, securing key components of the gear train, are themselves miniature sculptures. Each bridge is carefully beveled by hand, with the artisans creating polished, angled edges that outline their form. The flat surfaces are then treated with a straight-grained finish, creating a delicate, linear texture that stands in contrast to the swirling guilloché of the mainplate below. This interplay of different finishes adds immense visual depth and demonstrates a commitment to craft that goes far beyond simple necessity.



The meticulous attention to detail is evident throughout the Caliber ASB19. One can observe a symphony of decorative techniques, each applied with precision and purpose. Screws are not merely functional fasteners but are black-polished to a mirror-like sheen, a time-consuming process that requires perfect flatness. Surfaces that are less prominent are still given full consideration, with techniques like perlage (circular graining) and Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes) applied to various parts of the movement. These decorations are not superficial; they are integral to the movement's identity, reflecting a philosophy where every single component, whether visible to the casual observer or not, is treated as a piece of art.



The visual experience of the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold is one of profound three-dimensionality. The open-worked design invites the eye to travel deep into the mechanism. One first encounters the floating sapphire dial, then the prominent, satin-finished rose gold-colored bridges. Below that, the rotation of the micro-rotor and the oscillations of the balance wheel can be seen. Furthest in the background lies the intricate brown guilloché mainplate. This layering creates a dynamic landscape of gears, springs, and levers, all working in harmony. The contrast between the warm, brushed finish of the bridges and the dark, textured mainplate generates a visual tension that makes the watch endlessly fascinating to study.



This mechanical heart is housed within a case crafted from solid 18K rose gold. The choice of material lends a significant presence to the watch, its warm, reddish luster providing the perfect frame for the complex mechanics within. The case measures a contemporary 41 mm in diameter and 12.65 mm in height, dimensions that strike a balance between making a statement and ensuring comfortable wearability. The lug-to-lug distance of 48.09 mm has been carefully considered to allow the watch to sit securely and ergonomically on a wide range of wrist sizes. The surfaces of the case are finished with a combination of polished and brushed textures, further enhancing its sophisticated profile.



A key feature of this particular model is its extensive use of sapphire crystal. Beyond the customary use for the front crystal and the exhibition case back, both of which are treated with anti-reflective coating for maximum clarity, the dial itself is fashioned from this exceptionally hard and transparent material. This off-center sapphire disc appears to float weightlessly above the movement, its subtle grey tint allowing the underlying mechanics to remain the star of the show while providing a clear surface for the time-telling elements. This design choice is a brilliant solution that upholds the "Mechanics First" principle without sacrificing legibility.



The dial is a model of clarity and minimalist design, intended to provide information without obstruction. The main time is displayed on the grey-toned off-center sapphire disc with applied hour markers. A small subdial, also part of the sapphire disc, is dedicated to the running seconds, adding a dynamic element to the display. This arrangement ensures that the primary function of a watch—telling time—is performed effortlessly, while the wearer's gaze is still free to explore the captivating mechanical ballet occurring just beneath the surface.



To indicate the time, Armin Strom has chosen faceted and polished hands made of rhodium. Their sharp, geometric forms provide excellent readability against the complex background of the movement. For low-light conditions, the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova®, a phosphorescent material that glows brightly after being charged with light. This practical addition ensures that the watch remains functional and legible around the clock, blending high performance with high craft.



Completing the watch's aesthetic is a supple brown nubuck leather strap. The material's soft, matte texture offers a tactile and visual contrast to the polished and brushed metal of the case. Its earthy brown color perfectly complements the rose gold and the brown PVD-coated mainplate, tying the entire color palette together. The strap is accented with beige stitching and keepers, subtle details that enhance its refined yet casual character. This choice of strap makes the watch surprisingly versatile, capable of being dressed up or down with ease.



Securing the watch to the wrist is a folding clasp, also crafted from 18K rose gold. This ensures material continuity and provides a secure and comfortable closure. The use of a folding clasp, rather than a simple pin buckle, adds another touch of refinement and convenience, befitting a timepiece of this caliber. It is a final, thoughtful detail that speaks to the holistic approach Armin Strom takes in its creations.



True to the nature of high-end independent watchmaking, the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold is not a mass-produced item. Its creation is a labor-intensive process that relies heavily on manual skill and artistic craft. As a result, production is deliberately limited to just 25 pieces per year. This rarity ensures that each watch is an exclusive piece of mechanical art, a radiant and uncommon statement in the world of Swiss horology, destined for the wrists of a select few collectors who appreciate its unique blend of innovation and tradition.



The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Rose Gold, with the reference number RG24-GEF.SA, is positioned as a significant offering in the landscape of haute horlogerie. The price for this exceptional timepiece is set at $45,500. Given the extremely limited annual production of only 25 units, acquiring one is a matter of both means and opportunity. This figure reflects the extensive research and development behind the patented Caliber ASB19, the use of precious materials like 18K rose gold, the collaborative craftsmanship involving masters like Kari Voutilainen, and the hundreds of hours of meticulous hand-finishing that go into every single component of the watch.



Case: 18K Rose gold construction. Diameter of 41 mm, height of 12.65 mm, and a lug-to-lug of 48.09 mm. Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance rated to 3 ATM.

Movement: Armin Strom Caliber ASB19. Automatic winding via micro-rotor. Features an Equal Force Barrel. 72-hour power reserve, 28 jewels, 202 parts, and a frequency of 25,200 vph. Functions include hour, minute, and small second.

Dial: Grey toned off-center sapphire dial with a subdial for seconds. Hands are rhodium, facetted, polished, and filled with Super-LumiNova®.

Strap: Brown nubuck leather strap featuring beige stitching and keepers. Fitted with an 18K rose gold folding clasp.

Price: $45,500

Reference Number: RG24-GEF.SA

Notes: Features a patented equal force barrel with a Geneva stop-work mechanism for consistent timekeeping. The mainplate has a guilloché pattern by renowned watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. Production is limited to 25 pieces per year.