In the sphere of independent watchmaking, where innovation is the currency of relevance,
Armin Strom has consistently carved a niche for itself by marrying avant-garde mechanics with a distinct, architectural design language. The brand’s philosophy is not merely about telling time, but about showcasing the intricate ballet of forces that make precise timekeeping possible. The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue is a compelling testament to this ethos. It stands as a new interpretation within the lauded System 78 collection, a line that pays homage to the birth year of the brand’s co-founders, Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, and embodies their vision for accessible, high-concept independent watchmaking. This latest creation is an arresting study in color, texture, and mechanical ingenuity, drawing its inspiration from the serene, crystalline landscapes of the Swiss Alps.
The visual narrative of the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue is one of cool, tranquil beauty. It eschews the warmer tones of previous iterations for a palette that speaks of glacial lakes and the crisp light of an alpine morning. The watch immediately draws the eye with its complex, open-worked face, a hallmark of Armin Strom's design philosophy. There is a deliberate sense of deconstruction, allowing the wearer to peer into the very soul of the machine. The arrangement is not chaotic but rather a carefully orchestrated composition of gears, bridges, and springs, each element finished to an exacting standard. The dominant visual element is a striking, glacial blue main plate, its surface animated by a captivating guilloché pattern. This is not just any machine-stamped texture; it is the handiwork of the legendary independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, a master of this traditional craft. The intricate, wave-like pattern radiates across the plate, creating a dynamic interplay of light and shadow that evokes the gentle ripples on a pristine mountain lake.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
Housed within a meticulously finished 41 mm stainless steel case, the watch possesses a contemporary yet wearable presence. The case architecture is thoughtful, with a combination of brushed and polished surfaces that accentuate its lines. With a height of 12.65 mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 48.09 mm, it is engineered for a comfortable fit on a variety of wrist sizes. The sapphire crystal on the front and the exhibition case back are treated with an anti-reflective coating, ensuring a clear and unobstructed view of the mechanical spectacle within from any angle. This transparency is key to the watch's identity, transforming it from a simple time-telling device into a kinetic sculpture for the wrist. The overall aesthetic is one of technical modernity fused with the timeless appeal of traditional craftsmanship.
The dial, or rather the indication of time, is presented in a manner that is both unconventional and highly legible. Positioned asymmetrically to the left, a grey-toned, off-center sapphire crystal disc serves as the dial. Its transparency allows the underlying mechanics and the beautiful Voutilainen-guilloché plate to remain visible, reinforcing the watch's layered, three-dimensional quality. The Arabic numerals and hour markers are printed crisply on this sapphire surface, appearing to float above the movement below. The hands, faceted and polished rhodium-plated creations, are filled with Super-LumiNova®, ensuring readability in low-light conditions. This sub-dial for the hours and minutes is complemented by a small seconds display, which is also integrated into the open-worked design, contributing to the watch's dynamic and technical feel without cluttering the visual field.
The color palette is a masterclass in subtlety and coherence. The glacial blue of the main plate provides a cool, serene backdrop for the silvery, rhodium-finished components of the movement. The micro-rotor, the prominent equal-force barrel, and the distinctively shaped finger bridges are all hand-finished in this rhodium plating, creating a harmonious and cohesive look that is both sophisticated and understated. This cool metallic sheen contrasts beautifully with the transparent sapphire dial. The entire aesthetic is tied together by a supple blue nubuck leather strap, which features contrasting ice-blue stitching and keepers. This strap not only enhances the watch’s color scheme but also adds a touch of modern, casual refinement, making it surprisingly versatile.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
Beneath the sapphire crystal lies the heart of the watch: the proprietary Caliber ASB19. This movement is a testament to Armin Strom’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking. It is the first automatic movement to incorporate a stop-work declutch mechanism combined with a Geneva cross within the mainspring barrel. This might sound like technical jargon, but its function is crucial for high-precision timekeeping. In a standard watch movement, the torque delivered by the mainspring is highest when fully wound and diminishes as the spring unwinds, which can negatively affect the watch's accuracy over its power reserve. Armin Strom's patented system tackles this problem head-on.
The Geneva cross mechanism, a classic feature in high-end watchmaking, is used here to limit the mainspring barrel to only the most consistent portion of its wind. Essentially, it prevents the spring from winding down completely, ensuring that the force it delivers to the escapement remains remarkably constant. The stop-work declutch mechanism disengages the winding mechanism once the mainspring is fully wound, preventing any potential damage from overwinding. The result of this ingenious combination is a consistent, linear delivery of power to the balance wheel throughout the watch's impressive 72-hour power reserve. This greatly improves isochronism—the ability of the oscillator to maintain a steady frequency—leading to a higher degree of accuracy and reliability over time.
The automatic winding is accomplished by a compact micro-rotor, which is visible on the dial side of the movement. Placing the micro-rotor on the front is a deliberate design choice that not only contributes to the watch's visual depth but also allows for a slimmer movement profile compared to a traditional central rotor. The micro-rotor spins efficiently with the wearer's movements, winding the mainspring and ensuring the 72-hour power reserve is maintained. The entire movement, composed of 202 individual parts and operating at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, is a showcase of Armin Strom's integrated approach to engineering and design, where every component is both functionally essential and aesthetically considered.
A cornerstone of the Armin Strom philosophy is an unwavering commitment to hand-finishing, and the Caliber ASB19 is a canvas for this artisanal excellence. Every single one of the 202 components is meticulously finished by hand in the brand’s manufacture in Biel, Switzerland. The bridges, with their distinctive finger-like shapes, feature hand-beveled and polished edges, a time-consuming process that creates a brilliant play of light and demonstrates the skill of the watchmaker. The screws are not merely functional fasteners but are black-polished to a mirror-like finish, a decorative touch that is a hallmark of haute horlogerie. Furthermore, traditional decoration techniques such as perlage (circular graining) and Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes) are applied with painstaking care to various parts of the movement, adding texture and visual interest.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
This dedication to craft extends to the assembly process itself. In a practice uncommon in the industry, every Armin Strom watch, including the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue, is assembled twice. After the initial assembly, the watch is tested rigorously. It is then completely disassembled, each component is cleaned, and then it is meticulously reassembled by a single watchmaker. This dual-build process is a guarantee of both technical perfection and aesthetic refinement. It ensures that any microscopic imperfections from the initial assembly are rectified and that the final timepiece meets the brand’s uncompromisingly high standards of quality and reliability.
The watch is presented on a high-quality blue nubuck leather strap that perfectly complements the cool tones of the dial and movement. The nubuck finish gives the strap a soft, velvety texture that is comfortable on the wrist. The ice-blue stitching is a subtle but thoughtful detail that ties the strap's design to the glacial theme of the watch. It is fitted with a stainless steel folding clasp, providing both security and ease of use. This choice of a more casual strap material makes the Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue a surprisingly versatile timepiece, capable of being dressed up or down.
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue, with reference number ST24-GEF.BLU, is a highly exclusive offering. Production is limited to an annual series of just 25 pieces, ensuring its rarity and desirability among collectors of independent watchmaking. This limited production is a reflection of the immense amount of time and skill required to create each timepiece, from the hand-guilloché dial by Kari
Voutilainen to the meticulous hand-finishing and dual assembly of the ASB19 movement.
This timepiece is a significant addition to Armin Strom's System 78 collection. The collection serves as the entry point to the brand's universe, yet it sacrifices none of the innovation or craft that defines Armin Strom's more complicated pieces. It is a tribute to the spirit of independent watchmaking, showcasing technical innovation, a strong architectural design language, and a profound respect for traditional hand-finishing. The name itself, "System 78," references the birth year of co-founders Claude Greisler and Serge Michel, symbolizing a new generation of watchmaking that is rooted in tradition but resolutely forward-looking.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue is more than just a new colorway; it is a refined expression of the brand's core principles. It successfully translates the abstract concept of constant force into a visually engaging and mechanically sophisticated reality. The collaboration with Kari Voutilainen adds another layer of artisanal credibility, bridging the worlds of avant-garde mechanics and traditional decorative arts. The result is a timepiece that is intellectually stimulating, aesthetically captivating, and impeccably crafted.
For the discerning collector, this watch offers a unique proposition. It is a piece that reveals its complexities over time. The initial impression of cool blue and silver gives way to an appreciation for the depth of the open-worked architecture, the intricacy of the guilloché pattern, and the subtle dance of the visible mechanics. It is a watch that invites close inspection and rewards the owner with a continuous sense of discovery.
The use of a transparent sapphire dial is a particularly clever touch. It maintains the legibility of a traditional dial while preserving the visual openness that is so central to Armin Strom's identity. The rhodium-plated hands with Super-LumiNova® filling ensure that functionality is not sacrificed for form, a practical consideration that is often overlooked in highly conceptual watch designs.
The case, while modern in its dimensions, is designed with wearability in mind. The 41mm diameter is a sweet spot for many, large enough to make a statement but not so large as to be cumbersome. The relatively short lug-to-lug distance helps it conform to the wrist, while the 12.65mm thickness allows it to slip under a cuff, albeit a generous one. The water resistance of 3 ATM (30 meters) is standard for a watch of this type, making it suitable for daily wear but not for swimming or diving.
The movement's specifications are impressive. The 28 jewels reduce friction at key points, enhancing durability and accuracy. The screwed balance with a steel spiral is a traditional and reliable regulating system, capable of being finely adjusted for optimal performance. The 72-hour power reserve is a practical convenience, allowing the watch to be taken off for a weekend and still be running on Monday morning.
Courtesy of Armin Strom
The connection to the Swiss landscape is not just a marketing narrative; it is genuinely reflected in the watch's design. The cool palette of blues and greys, the shimmering texture of the guilloché plate, and the crystalline clarity of the sapphire components all combine to create a powerful sense of place. It is as if a piece of the serene Swiss Alps has been miniaturized and encapsulated for the wrist.
The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Blue is produced in a limited annual series of 25 pieces. It is priced at $59,500 USD. Given its limited production, technical ingenuity, and the involvement of a master craftsman like Kari Voutilainen, it represents a significant piece for those who appreciate the art and science of modern horology. It is available through authorized Armin Strom retailers worldwide.
Case: Stainless steel, 41 mm in diameter, 12.65 mm in height, and 48.09 mm lug-to-lug. Features a sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment. Water resistance is rated at 3 ATM.
Movement: Armin Strom Caliber ASB19, an automatic movement with a micro-rotor. It features a patented Equal Force Barrel with a Geneva stop-work mechanism, a screwed balance with a steel spiral, and a 72-hour power reserve. The movement contains 28 jewels, 202 individual parts, and operates at a frequency of 25,200 vph.
Dial: Grey toned off-center sapphire crystal subdial for hours and minutes. The main plate features a glacial blue PVD coating with a guilloché pattern crafted by Kari Voutilainen. Hands are rhodium, facetted, polished, and filled with Super-LumiNova®.
Strap: Blue nubuck leather strap with ice blue stitching and keepers, attached to a stainless steel folding clasp.
Price: $59,500
Reference Number: ST24-GEF.BLU
Notes: Limited to 25 pieces per year. The watch features a patented constant force delivery system in the barrel for improved isochronism. The movement is assembled twice to ensure the highest quality and refinement.